After seeing the post about a $100 fabricated tiller holder thought I would give this a try, and will let you know how it works. 1 1/4" PVC end cap fitted over the table post with a hole drilled in the cap to accept an oar lock. (Of course you remove the table first!) The 1 1/4" cap ID fits perfectly and the oar lock has a cotter pin hole on its stem whick keeps it connected to the cap. More later.
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What happened to the table top?
I suppose this is a stupid question but . . .why would one remove the table top to use for a tiller holder? I could see how it would be perfect for the tiller holder project . . .I must be missing something . . .I want a tiller holder . . .but I also use my table. Can a extra be ordered from Hunter? The price of the stainless steel product here on HOW is too high to be practical . . .
I suppose this is a stupid question but . . .why would one remove the table top to use for a tiller holder? I could see how it would be perfect for the tiller holder project . . .I must be missing something . . .I want a tiller holder . . .but I also use my table. Can a extra be ordered from Hunter? The price of the stainless steel product here on HOW is too high to be practical . . .
PVC PVC PVC!!!!
My three dollar tiller holder is a 1 1/2 inch pve elbow attached to about twenty inches of 1 1/2 pvc pipe with a coupling at the other end. Slip the elbow onto the tiller handle then jam the coupling into the table fitting on the floor. It works great for trailering too!!! I learned this from another post on this site. Frank
My three dollar tiller holder is a 1 1/2 inch pve elbow attached to about twenty inches of 1 1/2 pvc pipe with a coupling at the other end. Slip the elbow onto the tiller handle then jam the coupling into the table fitting on the floor. It works great for trailering too!!! I learned this from another post on this site. Frank
About the table...it easily detaches from its post and gets placed on the foreward bunk. For my situation where I have to raise and lover the mast while under way to clear the bridge going over to NAS, this holds the tiller on course while my wife and I are climbing around doing the mast thing. (We think it may be posible to sail with the holder in place, but haven't tried it yet.) Once we reach our favorite cove and anchor for the weekend, the tiller gets tied to the starbord stern cleat,the tiller holder removed from the pole and the table gets put in its place. We always eat topside and the table seperate from its post is easier for us to handle through the hatch. If anyone has more ideas/suggestionss please keep posting. Happy New Year !!
I built and posted this devise but I like your
idea alot. I used a PVC 2"tee and 1 1/2 bushing. Use your idea for the table leg using a 1 1/2" PVC cap. The bushing I used fit the table leg so if you use the 1 1/2" cap it should fit the leg and then I would drill the center of the cap and install a 2" eye bolt. Then mount the eye bolt using a nut and washer above the end cap, and a washer and nut below. This allows the eye bolt to be firmly locked into the PVC cap. Stuff the cap on the post and instant rudder lock. I think the eyebolt would be much easier than installing a cotter pin in an oar lock. The eye bolt also would fit snug enough to use it sailing or motoring. Any slop lets the rudder move alot. I now slide my lock over the tiller and then stuff it into the hole on deck because the hard part is sliding the PVC part over the table post as it is a tight fit. The cap can also be removed and thereby allow use of the table. Like anybody uses the table anyhow. Arturo, Hell of a good idea!! I shall modify my boat tomorrow to your method. It's faster to install and easier to use. Ray S/V Speedy
idea alot. I used a PVC 2"tee and 1 1/2 bushing. Use your idea for the table leg using a 1 1/2" PVC cap. The bushing I used fit the table leg so if you use the 1 1/2" cap it should fit the leg and then I would drill the center of the cap and install a 2" eye bolt. Then mount the eye bolt using a nut and washer above the end cap, and a washer and nut below. This allows the eye bolt to be firmly locked into the PVC cap. Stuff the cap on the post and instant rudder lock. I think the eyebolt would be much easier than installing a cotter pin in an oar lock. The eye bolt also would fit snug enough to use it sailing or motoring. Any slop lets the rudder move alot. I now slide my lock over the tiller and then stuff it into the hole on deck because the hard part is sliding the PVC part over the table post as it is a tight fit. The cap can also be removed and thereby allow use of the table. Like anybody uses the table anyhow. Arturo, Hell of a good idea!! I shall modify my boat tomorrow to your method. It's faster to install and easier to use. Ray S/V Speedy
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