Tightening of packing nut at shaft?

[jrowan]

Hello,

I was wondering if anyone else has tightened the packing nut at the stuffing box in order to reduce the amount of dripping coming from the gland.
I know it has to drip every few seconds when the prop shaft is spinning to help lubricate it, but my packing drips at least once or more per second, and doesn't stop after the engine is shut down. I know I probably need to eventually replace the packing, but I'm hoping to avoid this for a while, as I just relaunched the boat. (of course I didn't notice the excessive dripping until it was back in the water!) Can it damage the stuffing box or shaft if the packing nut is overtightened, or will I just make it leak more? Trying to reduce bilge water buildup, & if my bilge pump fails it could cause a potential flooding hazard. Also has anyone else ever seen an o'l school Sea Ranger model depth sounder before? It has a rotary LED spinning readout, and I wonder if it at all accurate. Kinda looks like a reject from a Star Trek episode. Thanks for responses.

 

[Don S/V ILLusion]

You can damage the shaft by scoring it if you tighten the packing too much. You have two choices:
Try tightening it a quarter turn and feel it while the shaft is running at speed - if it's hot, that's a bad sign. Having said that, even if it's not hot, you can still damage the shaft which can result in having to replace it as you cannot get a good seal when it is scored.
The other option is obviously to repack in the water. It's not a big deal and many of us have done it. You'll be surprised how little water comes in.

If you choose to repack, just make sure you have the proper packing size and pre-cut it to expedite repacking.

 

[Anonymous 121765]

JR,
Don is correct in his statements. It's pretty simple but may feel strange first time you do it. Remember too that a dry packing gland will swell up and maybe leak less when back in the water for awhile.

I now have a PSS waterless shaft seal so no packing is needed.
Space is tight on my 1980 C30, so I originally had two spanner wrenches with cut down handles for swing room. They are pretty cheap but look for a better made brand if you can. I had a bronze shaft originally so there will be signs of slight scouring the older the boat.

When changing packing, I carefully used a small allen wrench to peel out old packing. Be careful as not to score the inside of the gland nut. Figure the length required to wrap around the shaft leaving about 1/8" space. This allows for correct fit when tightened. Make three equal cut lengths. Wrap the first one where the ends are at 6:00. Start the second 60 degrees out where the ends meet at 10-11:00. Do the third where the ends meet around 4:00. That's it.

You may not get all of the packing out, and maybe not be able to put in three wraps in. That's OK too.

Hope this helps..

CR

 

[All U Get]

You could also read this link...http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/stuffing_box
AQll U Get

 

[jrowan]

Thanks for the advice; I guess I'll have to tackle this job in the water. I guess I could wrap a lil tape around the open end of the fitting next to the shaft temporarily while I'm working on the packing. I'll let y'all know how it went. -Jeremy

 

[Anonymous 121765]

Jeremy,

Your water flow thru the stuffing box will be minimal in respect with what you will achieve. Don't worry abour it. spray your coupling & back end of the transmission with WD40 and do your thing pal. Besides, between pulling out the old flax and installing the new, push the fittings back together, take a hand turn, in between tasks to slow the water flow. It's really not that daunting of a task, it was designed to be changed out while in the water.. Let us know how it goes........

CR

 

[Calif. Ted]

As long as there is thread left you should just need to tighten, this needs to be done periodically.

 

[shipwreck66]

Forgive if I'm repeating here, but did anyone mention tightening the locking nut after setting the packing nut where you want it? I found mine had backed itself loose.

 

[abrownsmith]

I say leave it, if it drips a little more no big deal

 

[jrowan]

Just to let y'all know, I went down to look at the boat's packing nut this week, and the original bronze coupling appears to be completely fused together. I don't think this nut has been opeened up in many years, if ever. Now I'm a little concerned that in order to break the bond / seal between the packing nuts that I may damage them. I can imagine that if the nuts break off or I strip the threads which are 30 years old, that I could have a major potential problem on my hands. If I had to replace the stuffing box threaded fittings, I'd have to haul her out. I don't think you can replace them without pulling the shaft partially out to allow room to slide on the new fittings. I can't imagine the amount of water the bilge would tak on in that situation. Sometimes preventative maintenance creats even more headaches. Has anyone been able to open up the packing nut on the original fitting, ie. circa 1980 era? Maybe I'll try to soak them for a while with PB Blaster and see if they can be worked free. I was hoping just to tighten them a 1/4 turn until the next haulout. Maybe I'm just worrying too much over a few drips.

 

[shipwreck66]

Mine looked the same way, so I was amazed when it turned so freely with a monkey wrench. I wonder if they all just look that way after 30 years of people banging pipe wrenches on them mercilessly. Give it a little test turn, this isn't like a pipe fitting under the sink that is wrenched down in a vise, just snug against the flax. The locking nut is "supposed" to keep it in place. There are a lot of people on here with great pics of these things up close, and none of them look showroom pretty.

 

[jrowan]

Thanks, I guess after all this discussion I'll have to give it a try.