Thru Hull Modification

[Tom J]

Yes, thats what I'm thinking about filling in with the epoxy to match the skin of the 93 thru hull. Have not worked with epoxy and am wondering
if it will "slump" before curing? Also if it will adhere to the hull as well as 5200 would?

If you mix the epoxy with a fairing material so that it is the consistency of peanut butter, it will not slump. I have worked with West Systems epoxy, and they have very detailed info to guide you through the process. The epoxy will adhere very well to the hull provided the hull is sanded and cleaned with acetone.

 

[Ward H]

West Systems also makes its 610 Thickened Epoxy that comes in a caulk type cartridge. You use a standard caulk gun. It comes with a mixing nozzle that mixes the resin and hardener as it comes out of the cartridge.

I hear they are pretty good with tech support. The number is at the bottom of their web page.
https://www.westsystem.com

As Tom said, you can mix in a filler to thicken up the epoxy so it won't sag. I've use their #406 Colloidal Silica.

 

[FastOlson]

I perceive that this problem may be veering into the realm of "over thinking"....

And I have also 'been to that movie before...'

No matter what kind of cast head the thru hull fitting has on it, that head and the oozed out (thickened) epoxy will all get ground off - flat with the hull surface.
(I keep a container of the West 404 thickener on hand for all this stuff.)
After grinding, the exterior will only show a round hole where the threaded part goes in.
Minimal resistance to water flow, and approx. .001 extra nano-knot of speed gained !!

Note: this type of install only works with the Marelon firing. Do NOT do this with bronze!

 

[Ward H]

No matter what kind of cast head the thru hull fitting has on it, that head and the oozed out (thickened) epoxy will all get ground off - flat with the hull surface.

OK, Now I understand what you did. It didn't sink in that you cut the head of the thru hull off. Thanks for clarifying that.