I have a 1984 Hunter 27. I want to run a boom vang back to the cockpit. Doing so will require that I thru bolt a block at the base of the mast, thru bolt an deck organizer at the raised "diamond" to make the turn and then bolt on a cam cleat at the edge of the cockpit. I am wondering about filing the void between the exterior deck and the interior fiberglass liner... or did the factory make these spots solid for the installation of deck hardware? I have yet to drill the holes. Any thoughts? Thanks for your help! Dan
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Ours required nuts in cabin
Dan, ALL the lines in our 1978 Hunter 30 are run to the cockpit. The lead blocks are at the base of the mast, a cheek block makes the turn and a jam cleat finishes the trip. ALL of these required a backing washer and nut inside the boat. We found an exact match interior paint to the interior color of the boat and painted the nuts. Doesn't look bad at all. Your boat is quite a bit newer so your solution might be different.
Dan, ALL the lines in our 1978 Hunter 30 are run to the cockpit. The lead blocks are at the base of the mast, a cheek block makes the turn and a jam cleat finishes the trip. ALL of these required a backing washer and nut inside the boat. We found an exact match interior paint to the interior color of the boat and painted the nuts. Doesn't look bad at all. Your boat is quite a bit newer so your solution might be different.
thru bolts
I am planning on thru bolting. My concern is the space between the decl and the liner a void or is it solid?
I am planning on thru bolting. My concern is the space between the decl and the liner a void or is it solid?
Should be solid
at least that has been my experience on my '85 H37C. Drill a test hole and use flat washers on the interior with maybe cap nuts so you don't tear your scalp.
at least that has been my experience on my '85 H37C. Drill a test hole and use flat washers on the interior with maybe cap nuts so you don't tear your scalp.
Void between the liner and deck on our h27
The layers were fiberglass, balsa, fibergrlass, void (1/4 to 1/8 inch estimated) then liner. I mounted an organizer, winch, and cleat on our deck for single-handing. Drilled 1/4 inch holes all the way through at the right location for the hardware. Then followed by 1 inch holes through the first fiberglass and balsa. Then plugged the 1/4 inch hole in the bottom layer of fiberglass, and fill the hole with epoxy and filler to provide protection to the balsa. When this sets up, drill the final 1/4 inch hole through the epoxy plug. To cover the ends of the bolts, I used a 1 inch thick plank of cherry. I let some of the bolts go through the cherry to hold in securely in place. Then mounted the hardware, fastebibg the bolts that are hiden by the cherry with nuts on fender washers. (all bolts were chosen for lengths to hide behind the cherry in routed slots, or go into holes in the cherry that could be fastened by dead-end nuts. Rounded the corners of the cherry, fastened a teak handle of the right lenght to it. Covered all with polyurethane varnish until it looked right. Mounted the cherry and handle with dead end nuts (used ones with rounded tops, and a phillips slot to hold them while we tightened the hardware from above. Result: Firm, waterproof mounting of single handing deck hardware. Also, a strong and attractive handle running from over the sink to well over the bench on the starboard side. Both the admiral and I are much happier going to the head while under way! Or going below for any reason! That's one approach anyway. David Lady Lillie
The layers were fiberglass, balsa, fibergrlass, void (1/4 to 1/8 inch estimated) then liner. I mounted an organizer, winch, and cleat on our deck for single-handing. Drilled 1/4 inch holes all the way through at the right location for the hardware. Then followed by 1 inch holes through the first fiberglass and balsa. Then plugged the 1/4 inch hole in the bottom layer of fiberglass, and fill the hole with epoxy and filler to provide protection to the balsa. When this sets up, drill the final 1/4 inch hole through the epoxy plug. To cover the ends of the bolts, I used a 1 inch thick plank of cherry. I let some of the bolts go through the cherry to hold in securely in place. Then mounted the hardware, fastebibg the bolts that are hiden by the cherry with nuts on fender washers. (all bolts were chosen for lengths to hide behind the cherry in routed slots, or go into holes in the cherry that could be fastened by dead-end nuts. Rounded the corners of the cherry, fastened a teak handle of the right lenght to it. Covered all with polyurethane varnish until it looked right. Mounted the cherry and handle with dead end nuts (used ones with rounded tops, and a phillips slot to hold them while we tightened the hardware from above. Result: Firm, waterproof mounting of single handing deck hardware. Also, a strong and attractive handle running from over the sink to well over the bench on the starboard side. Both the admiral and I are much happier going to the head while under way! Or going below for any reason! That's one approach anyway. David Lady Lillie
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