Through Hulls

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Jun 25, 2009
542
Hunter 33 Seabrooke, Houston
I have come to an agreemet with someone who repairs boats, right at the place where they lift the boat out of the water: I asked him to replace the through hulls, because I am terrified that the ocean will invade my boat any day, since one of them is very green ( looks like a gate valve, not working, round handle half broken, right aft of the waste bladder, starboard side
The Marina will only work with contractors, but this one will let me do the bottom job myself, and he will do the through hulls
My question: does anyone know what size, what kind, etc I need to buy?
This place is about one mile from where my boat is birthed, so it is very convenient
Any help will be appreciated
They guarantee their work, so I feel better
Price for having the boat there is : free for 3 days, then $ 25.00 a day, something reasonable like that
Thank you again
 
Jan 22, 2008
1,483
Hunter 37 C sloop Punta Gorda FL
I asked him to replace the through hulls,
My question: does anyone know what size, what kind, etc I need to buy?
/quote]

The "thru hull" is just the base ,threaded pipe and retainer nut inside the boat. What you describe sounds like a gate valve. Your "thru hull" may in fact be ok, but you can't tell till you get the green valve off of it. Ball valves are reccommended for this application. They have long handles and only turn 90 degrees as opposed to gate valves with wheels that turn several revolutions.

Alternatively, If you specify ball valve fittings, maybe the installer guy will buy them for you. You need do decide between marelon(fiberglass) or traditional bronze. Mainesail had a really nice piece on sea cocks not long ago. Try a search of the forum.

good luck
 
Jun 8, 2004
1,066
C&C Frigate 36 St. Margarets Bay, Nova Scotia
Make sure you have a look at MaineSail's pages on thruhulls & seacocks - there is a world of difference between gate valves, ball valves and seacocks, especially with regard to straight threads and tapered threads. Lots of good info here: http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/boat_projects

I agree with Bill. Your thruhulls are probably fine but the gate valves should be replaced with proper seacocks like these: http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wc...51_10001_108765_-1____ProductDisplayErrorView

Whatever you use, make sure it is BRONZE, not brass, for below the waterline applications.
 
Jun 25, 2009
542
Hunter 33 Seabrooke, Houston
Thruhulls

Make sure you have a look at MaineSail's pages on thruhulls & seacocks - there is a world of difference between gate valves, ball valves and seacocks, especially with regard to straight threads and tapered threads. Lots of good info here: http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/boat_projects

I agree with Bill. Your thruhulls are probably fine but the gate valves should be replaced with proper seacocks like these: http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wc...51_10001_108765_-1____ProductDisplayErrorView

Whatever you use, make sure it is BRONZE, not brass, for below the waterline applications.

Thank you both!
Yes, 2 of the ones I see in my boat have the same yellow lever
I have no way of testing these, because if I turn the lever, the ocean will pour in, correct?
Now the one in the port lazarette I think has a valve like a garden one, a circular one, which is in poor shape
I need to learn the proper names of these animals...
 
Jan 22, 2008
1,483
Hunter 37 C sloop Punta Gorda FL
I have no way of testing these, because if I turn the lever, the ocean will pour in, correct?
All of them should have hoses attached to direct the ocean to someplace.
Hoses need to be double clamped

If so, then you can turn the handles without fear sinking your boat.
 
Jun 25, 2009
542
Hunter 33 Seabrooke, Houston
Thru hulls

All of them should have hoses attached to direct the ocean to someplace.
Hoses need to be double clamped

If so, then you can turn the handles without fear sinking your boat.
Bill,
All are double clamped, but I don't know for how long the clamps have been there, or when they were last replaced
You think I should re-clamp them ( one at a time), and then I can turn the handle? What happens when I turn the handle? Does it close the thruhull?
 
Oct 25, 2011
115
Hunter 1980 H33-C Annapolis
if it is the original gate valve i recommend NOT TURNING IT! I tried to turn one off when i first got my boat and it sheared off entirely, i hammered a wooden tapered plug (luckily left onboard by the PO) with a rag wrapped around and duct taped around the whole mess, and hose clamped the whole gob together. then on haul out i broke half of the remaining ones trying to remove from the through hull before deciding to cut out through hulls as well as seacocks. its worth the money to go completely new
 
Jan 22, 2008
1,483
Hunter 37 C sloop Punta Gorda FL
Bill,
All are double clamped, but I don't know for how long the clamps have been there, or when they were last replaced
You think I should re-clamp them ( one at a time), and then I can turn the handle? What happens when I turn the handle? Does it close the thruhull?
Hose clamps rust. Especially the screw. It should be visually obvious if the clamps are bad.
Ball valve Sea Cocks (the ones with the yellow handles) are open when the handle is parallel to the body of the sea cock and closed when the handle is parallel to the hull.

Good point about the gate valves. Maybe you better not mess with it till you get the boat out of the water.
 
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