Through - hull Backing Plate

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May 17, 2004
2,110
Other Catalina 30 Tucson, AZ
Normally, I don't write about maintainence things on the sail trim forum but this one is important. Last week I was at an Alamitos Bay (So Ca) boat yard visiting a friend. The mate with the boat next to us was installing a through - hull. What caught my attention was he was scurrying around looking for a piece of plywood to use as a backing plate. He told me any piece of wood would do. That is a BIG mistake and here is why. Not all pieces of plywood, even marine, are the same. Regular plywood is full of voids and is not bonded together with marine glue. Plywood marked marine could be made from a lot of things (Douglas fir, tropical hardwood, Okoume or Mahogany). For plywood blocks, I prefer Mahogany plywood. Why do you need a backing block in the first place? The reason is to spread the load. Without a backing block, you are creating a hard spot in the hull which can easily be overloaded beyond a safe limit. If the sea cock becomes stuck and you try to force it with a wrench you could crack the laminate on the hull. That is not a good thing. What shape of block (round or square) is best for a fiberglas hull? The answer is round. On wood boats, square would be the best choice. With the round block you should take it one step further to improve its usefullness by tapering the edges. Now that you have cut the block to match the seacock - are you finished? The answer is NO. A seacock could last 20 years but an untreated piece of wood may last only 5 years. To extend the woods life you should saturate the blazes out of it with several coats of epoxy. Actually, I don't like to use plywood as backing blocks. My wood of choice is either mahogany or white oak. Do you think the sailor installing the sea cock listened to my backing plate advise? Not at first because he told me he was in a big hurry (like most folks in So Ca) to get the boat back in the water. Fortunately, his wife was listening to my 2 minute pitch and she thought it made sense. A couple of days later my friend called me and told me the husband and wife installed the mahogany block and they both said to tell me thanks for the advise.
 
Jun 2, 2004
40
Hunter 430 Schooner Cove, B.C.
Backing Plate Material

Don, I read somewhere or someone told me that a good material for backing plates is the hard white plastic that they often make cutting boards from (I think it is polyethelene, but I'm not sure). I need to replace the transducer for the depth sounder and this is the material I was planning to use. Thoughts Peter Milne S/V Blue Heron
 
May 17, 2004
2,110
Other Catalina 30 Tucson, AZ
StarBoard

Peter: I did not think of that but I think it would work and it would be impervious to anything - sea water, oily bilge etc. I'm not sure of the spelling of this product but it is sold at West Marine. I bought mine from a dealer in Newport Beach, Ca. It is the same stuff they make the stern perch seats out of. I gave up using oak (got sick of varnishing) and used this stuff exclusively for cockpit tables, bow perch, stern seats and anything else I could think off. Another advantage to the product is you can do anything to it that you can do to wood except glue it.
 
May 17, 2004
2,110
Other Catalina 30 Tucson, AZ
StarBoard

Peter: I did not think of that but I think it would work and it would be impervious to anything - sea water, oily bilge etc. I'm not sure of the spelling of this product but it is sold at West Marine. I bought mine from a dealer in Newport Beach, Ca. It is the same stuff they make the stern perch seats out of. I gave up using oak (got sick of varnishing) and used this stuff exclusively for cockpit tables, bow perch, stern seats and anything else I could think off. Another advantage to the product is you can do anything to it that you can do to wood except glue it.
 
C

Chris

The "stuff" is called:

UHMW, short for Ultra High Molecular Weight. It is also very hard wearing and slippery, making good for chain runners and similar high wear applications. You can work it just like wood in most cases. It is also great for things like pads to offset rudder pintles/gudgeons on an inclined transom, which use to be teak or mahogany. The only downside is that is and looks like plastic.
 
P

PY charlie

That white "stuff"

"UHMW, short for Ultra High Molecular Weight. " or Starboard... Is it true that it does not take to gluing or epoxy because of it's being so slippery? But very good when used with mechanical fastenings, screws bolts and etc..
 
Jun 3, 2004
347
Hunter 30_74-83 Lake Lanier, GA
No to starboard.

Yep, that's my oppinion. I'd prefer to use Delrin for this application. Starboard can compress and be just as bad as plywood without the rot. Pat McCartin Inland Marine Diesel Buford, Ga imd_ga@hotmail.com
 

jimq26

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Jun 5, 2004
860
- - -
Poly cutting board material is best!

Peter had it right. The best material (better than any type of wood you want to name) is the HDPE (high density polyethylene) used for cutting boards in commercial institutions. It's available in numerous thicknesses and sizes and will last forever when used as backing plates. Don't even think of Starboard.
 
Jun 4, 2004
629
Sailboat - 48N x 89W
HDPE

Pat: Always respecting your experienced opinion, I wonder what leads you to recommend ‘Delrin’ over ‘StarBoard’? I wouldn't have thought “creep” (compressability) to be a significant problem with HDPE (King “StarBoard”), any more than with Acetal Plastics (DuPont “Delrin”). I have read of moisture absorption problems, under certain circumstances, with some formulations of Acetal Plastics, which would mitigate against their use as Thru-Hull backing plates.
 
J

Jim on Whiskey Girl, 1973 C-27

I'll vote with Pat on this

I looked at Starboard and others when I did the thru hulls on Whiskey Girl last year, and the manuf. website does not recommend using it under compression loads like bolting or gasketing, because it deforms and creeps out from under the load, reducing the compression. I used redwood from home depot, its very rot resistant, good compression loading, etc, and after shaping it to the hull curve, heated it in an oven for a while and painted it with epoxy while hot. Ask me in 10 years how it worked. :)
 
Jun 7, 2004
944
Birch Bay Washington
UHMW, HDPE, ETC.

are all fairly weak materials and not suitable in my opinion for this purpose. These thermoplastics are too easily compressed/deformed and have poor thermal characteristics as well. I will go with plywood saturated with epoxy - tried and true.
 
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