This year the throttle cable on my Hunter 28 became very stiff. I tried oiling the cable while the cable was still attached. The problem was not resolved. The boat is now on dry land. Is it a major undertaking to remove the cable, lube it and replace it. Are there any tricks or "don'ts?"
- Status
- Not open for further replies.
P
Pete
stiff throttle
Are you sure it is the cable? I had a similar situation and it was the throttle shaft on the fuel pump that was stiff. Disconnect the cable and see how it works,also it is not nessary to remove the cable to lubricate it,disconnecting it should give you full range to lube it,if that doesn't work figure on replacing the whole thing.
Are you sure it is the cable? I had a similar situation and it was the throttle shaft on the fuel pump that was stiff. Disconnect the cable and see how it works,also it is not nessary to remove the cable to lubricate it,disconnecting it should give you full range to lube it,if that doesn't work figure on replacing the whole thing.
Petes approach first.
Lewis: I would attach this problem with Petes approach first. If it is in fact the cable, you could remove the metal cable from the housing. The try using some emory cloth to polish the cable. Before you replace the cable, lube it with some graphite or other dry lubricant. If this does not take care of the problem, you may need to replace the entire housing and cable. Be careful when removing the housing from the inside of the pedestal. You do not want the clamp to become detacted from the pedestal. The clamp holds the housing in place as the cable moving inside of the housing. There is usually a clamp on both ends (pedestal & engine end).
Lewis: I would attach this problem with Petes approach first. If it is in fact the cable, you could remove the metal cable from the housing. The try using some emory cloth to polish the cable. Before you replace the cable, lube it with some graphite or other dry lubricant. If this does not take care of the problem, you may need to replace the entire housing and cable. Be careful when removing the housing from the inside of the pedestal. You do not want the clamp to become detacted from the pedestal. The clamp holds the housing in place as the cable moving inside of the housing. There is usually a clamp on both ends (pedestal & engine end).
P
Paul Akers
Lewis...
...I've covered this before because it happened to me twice. The throttle lever, where the cable connects on the engine, can stiffen up if it get wet. Check this by disconnecting the cable then working the throttle lever on the engine by hand. It should move very freely and spring back to the original position because it is spring-loaded. If it is stiff, spray it with penetrating oil (I prefer a product called PB) that can be acquired at an automotive store. While you are there, also purchase a can of spray lithium grease. Let the PB set overnight then liberally spray the whole mechanism with the lithium grease. This is the same stuff that the auto dealer uses when they lube the hinges on your car door. It will set up a moisture barrier and should be good from here on out. This happened to me twice. The first time I only used WD-40. That's why it happened a second time. While you have the cable disconnected, try the cable also to determine if it's the real problem.
...I've covered this before because it happened to me twice. The throttle lever, where the cable connects on the engine, can stiffen up if it get wet. Check this by disconnecting the cable then working the throttle lever on the engine by hand. It should move very freely and spring back to the original position because it is spring-loaded. If it is stiff, spray it with penetrating oil (I prefer a product called PB) that can be acquired at an automotive store. While you are there, also purchase a can of spray lithium grease. Let the PB set overnight then liberally spray the whole mechanism with the lithium grease. This is the same stuff that the auto dealer uses when they lube the hinges on your car door. It will set up a moisture barrier and should be good from here on out. This happened to me twice. The first time I only used WD-40. That's why it happened a second time. While you have the cable disconnected, try the cable also to determine if it's the real problem.
T
Terry
PETROLEUM BASED LUBRICANTS...
should not be used in a marine environment. They gum up the works. Use a non-petroleum based lubricant that Steve suggested. Most engine control cables are lubricated for life. As they stiffen with age boaters (including me) will try to squirt engine oil on the cable to loosen it up, but it just gums the movement. If you decide to replace the throttle cable call Hunter and they will give you the cable length. West Marine carries most cable sizes. On the middle stern side of the pedestal tube there is a SS nut that holds the shifter and throttle cable keeper. A long cotter pin locks both cables into this keeper. Pull the binnacle off and you can see this assembly with a flashlight. You should be able to replace the cable without removing the pedestal from the cockpit sole. A long handled curved forcep is a must have tool to do this work. Plan on three hours to remove and replace. If your H28 is an earlier model you might want to replace the shifter cable at the same time. Good luck. Terry
should not be used in a marine environment. They gum up the works. Use a non-petroleum based lubricant that Steve suggested. Most engine control cables are lubricated for life. As they stiffen with age boaters (including me) will try to squirt engine oil on the cable to loosen it up, but it just gums the movement. If you decide to replace the throttle cable call Hunter and they will give you the cable length. West Marine carries most cable sizes. On the middle stern side of the pedestal tube there is a SS nut that holds the shifter and throttle cable keeper. A long cotter pin locks both cables into this keeper. Pull the binnacle off and you can see this assembly with a flashlight. You should be able to replace the cable without removing the pedestal from the cockpit sole. A long handled curved forcep is a must have tool to do this work. Plan on three hours to remove and replace. If your H28 is an earlier model you might want to replace the shifter cable at the same time. Good luck. Terry
F
Frank Sears
I had the same problem this year....
My shifter seized up and my throttle was getting hard... Crazy Dave told me to try "PB Blaster". I took the cable off the motor so I could raise the cable as high as I could, sprayed the blaster a couple of times and slowly the shifter started to lossen. I used it on both cables and they are now free! It doesn't take much. Comes in a spray can, a couple of bucks. A cheap and easy fix! Good Luck!
My shifter seized up and my throttle was getting hard... Crazy Dave told me to try "PB Blaster". I took the cable off the motor so I could raise the cable as high as I could, sprayed the blaster a couple of times and slowly the shifter started to lossen. I used it on both cables and they are now free! It doesn't take much. Comes in a spray can, a couple of bucks. A cheap and easy fix! Good Luck!
- Status
- Not open for further replies.