Throttle Cable Clamps

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J

John

The throttle on my 30GM30F falls back from rpms greater than 2200 to 1100 rpm. This really can cause some problems while trying to maintain speed. I was told to use cable clamps. Any suggestions as to where I can buy them and where on the cable it should be placed?
 
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Gordon Torresen

Throttle brake

Some pedestals have an adjustable friction device built in. If yours doesn't, you need a Morse part # 44368 that is available from Diesel Direct for $14.65.
 
R

Ron Parkes

Clamp Works

There is a post in the Photo Forum by Steve Dion on 6-11-2000 entitled "An end to throttle creep". I had (note the past tense) the same problem on my 20gm2f for my Hunter 320. It was particularly bad at higher rpms (2800 or so) and would slowly edge back down into the low 2000s. I asked my nearby boatyard to order the part described and installed it just yesterday. A test at the slip with the transmission in neutral showed it worked just fine. By the way, I installed mine on the red cable where it passes under the aft cabin between the engine and the pedestal. It was just easier to get to at that location! Ron Parkes s/v Contemplation
 
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Mickey Goodman

Cable Clamp

I had the same problem on Legend 37. I spoke to the owner of Edson International who made the pedastal. Two ways of solving the problem. 1. Get a simple wire clamp from your local hardware store for about $1.00. This is the "U" shape clamp that has a metal bar with holes on each end that the two threaded ends of the "U" shape clamp goes through and it has two nuts for tightening. You would put that clamp close to the throttle on the engine but far enough back to clamp both the cable its self and the cover. You would need someone at the pedistal when you tighten the clamp to make sure you don't create to much friction. Make sure you do the tightening while the engine in running in higher RPMs to see if throttle is falling back. It worked for me and was a real cheap fix. 2. The other fix is to remove the compass and see look down into the openning and find where the throttle level goes through the housing. On top of the place where the lever goes through the housing there is a stainless screw which can be tightened to create friction. Be careful since the screw is stainless and the housing in aluminum, to much tightening can crack the housing. I opted to put the clamp on the throttle cable since my luck would be that if I tightened the screw I would have cracked the housing. A brief aside, after I put the cable clamp on the throttle cable the throttle became extremely hard to move, I figured I over crimped the cable and I would have to replace the whole cable; my luck. What I did find is that some water driped onto the throttle lever at the point it went into the engine and the salt dried and plugged the lever to the block. After removing the cable from the lever on the engine, a vice grip, WD40 and 1/2 hour of time I worked the lever until it moved easily by hand. Re-hooked up the cable and I was back in business. Good luck
 
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