So, I am getting ready to paint the hull with Interlux Brightside. What has anyone's experience been with thinning?
Thinning Brightside
- Thread starter krantala
- Start date
The product data sheet http://www.yachtpaint.com/MPYACMDatasheets/Brightside__Polyurethane+eng-usa+A4+Y+20141215.pdf says you can thin with Brushing Liquid 333.
I once helped a friend build a stitch and glue kayak from CLC. We painted it red. I'm pretty sure we used Interlux Brightsides. We did roll and tip it, and my recollection is that the stuff is very runny, and it didn't cover quite as much as I thought it would, though we only needed 2 coats. I also recall someone else using Brightsides yellow, and it had even worse coverage, probably needed 3 coats. We did not thin it at all.
I once helped a friend build a stitch and glue kayak from CLC. We painted it red. I'm pretty sure we used Interlux Brightsides. We did roll and tip it, and my recollection is that the stuff is very runny, and it didn't cover quite as much as I thought it would, though we only needed 2 coats. I also recall someone else using Brightsides yellow, and it had even worse coverage, probably needed 3 coats. We did not thin it at all.
Hi - working on my last coat on my hull with Brightsides. I am using the cheap 4" paint trays from Home Depot (tan in color, maybe 8x4 in size) and their 4" foam rollers. I find that if I am putting ~ 1/5 a quart in the tray I need just over a cap full of 333 to get it spreading smoothly.
About half way through depending on the day's condition I may need to add a bit more and mix it up to keep the consistency.
My key lessons:
1. It's all in the primer coats. Super smooth. Sand more than you would originally think.
2. Put it on thin. Don't use to much paint on the roller and spread even but thin.
3. Put it on in small sections. Don't get overextended, dries to fast.
4. When doing your tip start with the brush down on the unpainted side and swipe into the new paint lifting out once you have passed into your old paint.
About half way through depending on the day's condition I may need to add a bit more and mix it up to keep the consistency.
My key lessons:
1. It's all in the primer coats. Super smooth. Sand more than you would originally think.
2. Put it on thin. Don't use to much paint on the roller and spread even but thin.
3. Put it on in small sections. Don't get overextended, dries to fast.
4. When doing your tip start with the brush down on the unpainted side and swipe into the new paint lifting out once you have passed into your old paint.
Thanks guys. The weather up here is good for painting, but there sure seems to be a lot of inconsistency with regards to application...it seems that for every one person who says things went well, there is another saying the opposite. I am probably a week away yet. I'll post some pix and comments when done. Just doing the bottom over the next few days...still sanding.
Brightsides only needs to be thinned about 10% (if at all) for roll and tip.
RE: coverage. It doesn't have the solids of some other paints, but you should always plan on 2 coats min. Lighter colours (like yellow) over a dark colour, is always hard to cover.
Practice on a piece of scrap before the real thing.
RE: coverage. It doesn't have the solids of some other paints, but you should always plan on 2 coats min. Lighter colours (like yellow) over a dark colour, is always hard to cover.
Practice on a piece of scrap before the real thing.
I painted the entire hull of my C22 with Brightsides using the 333 thinner to thin by 10%, first primed with the Interlux Prekote primer.
First... the thinner is basically Kerosene, you could substitute that (that was straight from the Interlux tech rep, but I'm not sure if kerosene has any additives so to be safe I used the can of 333).
Coverage is very good, I only needed 2 quarts top put two coats on my 22 foot hull from boot stripe up. I bought 3 quarts and will end up using it all, I did make some mistakes.
Tips, as mentioned above do a really good job with the primer first. Use two coats and let dry overnight and you can sand it with 220 on an orbital. This will take out any errant brush marks and you won't burn through.
Temperature is very important. Don't paint in direct sunlight and don't paint a hull that has been allowed to get warm in the sun. Foam rollers from HD or Lowes are fine, but make sure you invest in a good tipping brush. Thin 10% percent by volume is pretty much perfect is air temp is around 70.
Brightsides gains its gloss when drying with the outside layer becoming hardest, so for the second coat you must sand it dull. 400 wet tends to cut better than 320 dry. Let the first coat cure at least 24 hours if not more so the paint does not gum up your paper. You have to do a complete coat, you can't leave anything unfinished and come back later. Its really helpful to have someone assist, they roll first and you follow with the tip brush.
First... the thinner is basically Kerosene, you could substitute that (that was straight from the Interlux tech rep, but I'm not sure if kerosene has any additives so to be safe I used the can of 333).
Coverage is very good, I only needed 2 quarts top put two coats on my 22 foot hull from boot stripe up. I bought 3 quarts and will end up using it all, I did make some mistakes.
Tips, as mentioned above do a really good job with the primer first. Use two coats and let dry overnight and you can sand it with 220 on an orbital. This will take out any errant brush marks and you won't burn through.
Temperature is very important. Don't paint in direct sunlight and don't paint a hull that has been allowed to get warm in the sun. Foam rollers from HD or Lowes are fine, but make sure you invest in a good tipping brush. Thin 10% percent by volume is pretty much perfect is air temp is around 70.
Brightsides gains its gloss when drying with the outside layer becoming hardest, so for the second coat you must sand it dull. 400 wet tends to cut better than 320 dry. Let the first coat cure at least 24 hours if not more so the paint does not gum up your paper. You have to do a complete coat, you can't leave anything unfinished and come back later. Its really helpful to have someone assist, they roll first and you follow with the tip brush.
I often use Penetrol with one part paints, add 10 to 15%. Makes the paint flow and level out much nicer. They say it gives a harder finish, but that's hard to verify. I've even gotten decent results rolling and not tipping with it. Not as smooth as tipped, but not bad.