Thickness of Windows

[Tom23254]

Does anyone know the thickness of the 4 side windows and the big windshield in the front of a 1990-1998 Hunter 42 Passage? Also do the side windows have to be pre-bent or can they be flat and screwed into place.? I highly believe the windshield will have to be pre-bent however if anyone knows differently please let me know so I can shop for a local supplier that can cut and form what I need.

 

[KD3PC]

I don't recall the thickness on my 1991, but they do have to be pre-bent. There is too much bend to just hope the 795 seals them.....the screws on the side windows, if there is actually a screw in the hole, is just to hold the unit in place until the Dow 795 sets up. It takes a while to do so, I waited a week and was still careful with them, as the specs say 30 days for full affect.

Then you take screws out, seal that hole with a dot of Dow.

I would talk to hunter/marlow and see what they may have ? The cutting is precise and would have to be accounted for in the bend, to work properly, or you may end up shallow in spots, that would likely leak or present problems down the road. Make sure the shop does not use conventional silicone lube or materials as the DOW does not play well with it.

There is also the material selection, do your homework or again ask hunter what they used. Acrylic, lexan, poly, etc. I don't recall - but some materials will never seal with the DOW and some materials are prone to clouding/streaking/breaking down. Don't let the shop talk you in to the wrong stuff.

Back in 2009, I found a place that had 4 of the side windows in stock, again ask hunter for a list of their suppliers or contact Phil here, as he may know someone who has NOS units or can fab them. Would be worth a few phone calls.

 

[CoolChange91-42passage]

Hey Tom, I replaced all my windows three years ago and did it a little differently. I noticed that all the screws holding in the bronze plexi were stripped out and really holding nothing. The windows had been caulked too many times to count and being a southern boat the sun had really crazed the plastic. So, I dug out the windows, because the dark plexi gets too hot and has a horrible expansion rate, I split the main windshield into two parts and made the side windows shorter where possible. This relieves some of the stress, but the other thing I did was drill the screws through into the interior and used wing nuts to secure them. I used gasket material instead of caulking because the caulk obviously wasn't working very well. So far I'm very happy with the decision. All the main windows can be popped out easily and removed. I didn't pre-curve the main wind screen or any other parts, just bolted them down tight after letting them get hot with the sun and they take up the curve of the hull nicely. Being from Ann Arbor originally I know getting hot by the sun is only available in July so better hurry. If you have any Questions, be glad to answer them. I cut out the side windows with a computerized router but did the main wind screen by hand using the original as a pattern which was actually easier than I thought it would be. I will try to include some pics. I'll get pics of main screen when I get back to the boat.

 

[CoolChange91-42passage]

Tom, found a couple more pics on my Ipad. This shows the center piece that I put to protect the area between the newly two piece main windscreen. The white coating is perforated vinyl like they print on for the windows of a wrapped vehicle, keeps the windows nice and cool and as you can see you can see out unimpeded but not in during the day. At night you can only see in if the lights are on inside and you are looking straight in not at an angle. Jim Becker