The Saga of Yaga I work for Fluor Corp in Sugarland Texas as a Control Systems Engineer. In December, they gave me a temporary assignment at a vendor site in Columbia Maryland until July. Since it includes $96 per diem ($2880/month tax free) and 2 round trips to Houston per month for my wife who works contract, we decided to move ‘Yaga’ a Hunter 40.5, to Baltimore. The total cost was only $482.50 due to winter rates for the first 4 months at the Harbor View marina. May and June will be $440 per month. We did the same thing 2 years ago with an 8 months assignment to Long Beach only we trucked Yaga there and back. Slip costs there was $503 per month but we felt it was worth the expense. The Pacific Ocean, Catalina Island, fellow boaters and the whales make Southern California a wonderful place to cruise. We felt this trip would give us some cruising experience plus the chance to experience 'The Bay'. We think Baltimore and Annapolis are wonderful cities (we had been to 2 previous U.S. Boats Shows) and enjoyed meeting sailors there. We didn't like the ideal of setting up an apartment or spending 5 grand (one-way) to move Yaga by truck. Do to time constraints we may have to truck her back but would prefer to sail her. I say all this because one might wonder why anyone in his or her right mind would sail from Florida to Maryland in January. Even a Gulf crossing from Texas to Florida in December is a tad crazy. We made plans and began preparations for our winter cruise from Kemah to Baltimore. The first leg was to be from Kemah to Jacksonville with a direct Gulf crossing from Galveston to the Dry Tortugas and then with a 2-week layover in Jacksonville while I had to go work in Columbia. Grady Simmons, good friend and experienced sailor with many Gulf crossings, signed on as crew for this first leg. Then I was to return for the final leg up to Baltimore in January. We had recently added Raytheon Radar, Chartplotter / fishfinder and Autopilot, an Interphase Twinscope Sonar and a Globalstar Sat phone. Yaga was well equipped for the voyage except for a liferaft so we carried our 9’ Caribe tender inflated on the foredeck. We headed out at 1000 Dec 15th but we only made it to the fuel dock before heavy fog set in. While sitting there one of two Raytheon 5200 VHF radios died. Everyone told me not to leave on a cruise on a Friday. Debbie went to West Marine and exchanged it. We went back to the slip at 1600 to get a good night’s sleep. Debbie, Grady and I went up to the marina restaurant for some more final goodbyes. I had a beer and ate dinner at the bar. Debbie and Grady milled around and let their friends buy them a last round or two. I stuck my head out of the companionway at midnight and the fog had lifted so we were underway at 0100. By 0430 we had cleared the Galveston jetties and set a rhumb line (110 degrees M) for the Dry Tortugas. A cold front (Texas Northern) was bearing down on us but the 20 knots SSW winds proceeding the front had us moving at hull speed (8 knots). Grady and I were in a 4-hour watch rotation with Debbie filling in as needed. Grady and Debbie were feeling the affects of the night before. Debbie was able to sleep some down in the aft cabin and Grady snoozed in the cockpit. Even with the strong wind the fog settled in around 1000 and gave the Radar its first real test. We passed many platforms, some within a quarter mile that we never saw. We preferred to stay out of the fairways to avoid ships. Debbie and Grady had just began to feel better when the front arrived at 1730 Dec 16 with N winds at 35 and gusts to 45 but it also blew away the fog. We dropped the main and ran with the 155 Genoa reefed to 80%. We decided to start the engine to top off the batteries since we wanted to use the Radar continually though out the night. It turned over just fine but wouldn’t start. Fuel problem, so down I went to bleed the fuel system. It didn’t take long to get her running or to get me feeling sick from the fumes. Seas were 12’ and very rough. I made a bee line for the cockpit and felt fine in a few minutes of fresh air. It was the first time I had experienced air in the fuel lines and I haven’t since then. Murphy was just showing whose boss. At 1900 we gave our shore based weather guy, Rus Records, a call on the Sat phone to tell him our position and get a weather update. By 0100 Dec 17 we had covered 175 NM in 24 hours. We called this front “Perfect Storm 1”. That night the seas built to 15’ and the wind steadied at 30 and began to shift to the NE making us constantly trim the Genoa. Yaga was racing along at +8 knots and since the AP was new we did a lot of hand steering. I, for one, really enjoyed that a lot. We were sailing from lighted platform to lighted platform because it gave us an easy reference to sail by, plus it made me feel a little closer to help if the need arose. “God Forbid”. By 0100 Dec 18 we had covered 188 NM in 24 hours. It continued to blow until 0400 with a steady decrease in velocity to 25 knots out of the E forcing us fully unfurl the 155 Genoa, raise the main with two reefs in and to sail close hauled on port tack. Following a fantastic sunrise at sea the wind dropped to 15 and shifted to the S so we shook out the final reef and changed to a starboard tack. We were all stressed by the many hours of bad weather and lack of quality sleep, but the worst was over. OR was it? The 0700 weather report from Rus was not good. He said a strong front was pushing through Kansas heading SE. He predicted 24 hours before it reached us. Grady said “That sucker is really moving.” We turned on the engine to charge batteries and maintain 7.5 knots as the wind dropped to 10 knots. We motor sailed along at 110 degrees M trying to put some distance between Yaga and the front. “There she blows!” I shouted. At 0835 there were spouts dead head in the rising sun. I keep seeing regular spouts that don’t seem to move. It’s a sperm whale sleeping on the surface facing west. We rolled up the Genoa, ease the main to slow down. I grabbed the camera, hooked my harness to the jackline and went to the bow for a photo opportunity. We drifted up to the 35’ whale and snapped pictures as fast as possible. Our approach woke up the slumbering giant who took 3 deep breaths and dove straight down. Awesome sight. Debbie wondered how deep it is. I checked the chart. It was 9,480 feet. Debbie was really feeling great and prepared a super lunch of beef stew and a full course dinner that night. We were all getting lots of quality sleep. I had the 0200 to 0600 watch. The wind began to increase and move to the SW and the barometer began to fall. I looked NE just before sunrise and could not see any stars. Not good signs. With the first rays on sunlight Grady came topside to take the watch. I looked behind us and saw a black wall cloud rolling across the gulf. We quickly lower the main, furled the Genoa and started the engine. As the first big gusts hit, I turned Yaga NE into the raging storm. Winds were 50+ with the highest at 57 knots with Yaga moving at 2 knots just enough for steerage. Seas built quickly and soon were 5’ and breaking. It was time to turn downwind. We shut down the engine and unfurled about 3’ of Genoa. We accelerated to 8.5 knots! I called Rus to tell him his forecast was right on and give him an updated position. We were 180 NM from the Dry Tortugas so we had a long day and a longer night in Perfect Storm 2. It had indeed gotten worst than number 1. By noon the NNW winds were 40+ and 15’ swells had developed making steering difficult. At least they were from astern and moving faster than Yaga. Grady and I steered in 1-hour shifts. I caught one wave much like a surfer would and as Yaga sped down the face I watch the knot meter go to 16.2 knots! Yaga was pounded by breaking seas coming from just port of the stern. The sites and sounds of the storm scared the hell out me but being the skipper I tried not to show it. I sit here now writing this with a pain in my heart and tears in my eyes as I re-live those 24 hours. We were lucky we had our sea legs and were in such great shape. If we had been tired and/or seasick it would have made the situation dangerous. It wasn’t Yaga who might let us down; it was ourselves that might. Debbie, Grady and I did not discuss the possibility of something going wrong but reviewed emergency abandon ship procedures such as launching the inflatable on the foredeck and where everything was in case we had to make a quick exit. I called the Coast Guard at Key West and talked to a really helpful Lieutenant who took all of our information and said to just call if things went bad. It was reassuring. But we all three felt that the most reassuring thing was that Yaga was a well-built sailboat designed to easily handle these conditions. That night the winds had dropped to 35+ but the seas began to break in the really big ‘sets’. A set was 3 waves much larger, like 18 to 20 feet, than the other waves around them. During the day we could see them coming and could maneuver away most of the time. In the dark, Yaga was pooped several times with 2 feet of water coming over the stern and turning the cockpit became a swimming pool! The water rushed out the walk-thru in the transome in just seconds. By 0100 Dec 19 we had covered 204 NM in 24 hours. At sunrise it was down to 25+ out of the north so we raised the main with 2 reefs in and unfurled the Genoa to 100%, still racing along at 8+ knots. Spotted dolphins came over to Yaga to play in her bow wave. We quickly forgot our hardships as we watched them dance in the very clear Gulf waters. Then sea turtles began to show up. All good signs. By 0900 we were tied up to the pier at Fort Jefferson drinking a Champagne toast to Yaga (and Hunter Marine) for getting us safely across the Gulf of Mexico in the middle of December. I called the Coast Guard to tell them we had made it. And Grady called his wife Kim and we called our parents and kids as well. Sat phones are so cool. A seaplane from Key West had crashed next to the fort on takeoff the day before and its wreckage stood as a grim reminder of the power of the storm. While at Garden Key the brand new Raytheon 5200 VHF radio died. We had made the crossing in just 4 days 7 hours, a record for Yaga that she may never beat. As Debbie now says “If you ever get asked to cross the Gulf of Mexico in December, just say NO!”. We spent the day on Garden Key touring the fort. The storm waves had caused the water to be murking so our dive plans were off. After a grilled steak dinner, watching ‘Gladiator’ on DVD, and a really good night sleep at anchor, we had a wonderful sail to Key West. We turned north and began to motor into Key West harbor. Yaga developed a severe vibration. It had been slowly coming on since I had a dripless shaft seal installed in September. I had it checked out in Kemah right before we left and got a clean bill of health. It turned out the guy had damaged the coupling and shaft and did not tell me about it. Grady and I checked the engine and found the shaft key was missing. All the shops in Key West were closed for the holidays. We being the master mechanics we are, we installed another shaft key but failed to notice one motor mount was broken and another was very loose. It still vibrated, so we decided to get it fixed at the first marine service center that was open on our way north. Other than that, Yaga showed no effects of the crossing and the battering she took. I did go to West Marine and exchanged the bad radio for a new one. We spent 4 wonderful, fun filled days in Key West as Debbie’s parents met us there in their RV. We practically lived at Harpoon Harry’s and Sloppy Joe’s. We talked little about the crossing and quickly became anxious to move on. We wanted to get to Jacksonville by New Years. We re-fueled and left at noon Christmas day. The vibration was getting worst. I could only do 1200 RPM and was afraid to even use reverse. We anchored overnight off Big Pine Key. The cruising life was good and we enjoyed sailing up the Hawk channel dodging the many crab pot buoys. Then we anchored overnight off Boot Key and ran the tender into Marathon to find a yard. They said the service guys are all off on vacation and couldn’t look at Yaga until next year! (7 days) We decided to keep sailing north. We began to realize we could not make Jacksonville by Dec 31st due to head winds. Using the Gulf Stream was out of the question with the strong NE winds. While sailing, the brand new Raytheon 5200 VHF radio died. I called around during the day (cell phone) and found that Chinnock Marine in Ft Lauderdale could do the work. We kept sailing through the night, past Miami (scary at night) and arrived in 0830 Dec 28th. The drive train damage was bad; Yaga required a new shaft and coupling. They were worried about the transmission. So they hauled her out. Grady caught a flight from there back to Houston and we went to West Marine for a new radio. This time they gave us the Raytheon 53 DSC VHF radio. It’s still working perfect! Debbie and I had a really good time running around the town and to the beach in our rental car. Fort Lauderdale is a great cruising destination. We spent New Year’s Eve driving to Jacksonville to catch our flights. It was 27 degrees there (a record low) and our hotel room had NO heat or hot water! Shades of things to come. I dropped Debbie off at the airport and went back to the hotel and made them give me a room someone had just checked out so I could take a hot shower. “Message in a Bottle” was on the TV and I cried when Garrett (Kevin Kosner) drowned trying the save the lady from going down with her sailboat in a Perfect Storm. If you haven’t seen the movie and don’t want to know the ending then don’t read the previous sentence. The crossing has made me an emotional guy! While Yaga was in the yard we decided to add the Martec Autostream 18" 3-blade feathering prop with forward pitch set at 13" and reverse pitch set to 12". The original prop was a Martec 18X16 fixed 2-blade we used for 3 years and 600 hours of run time. They sent the transmission to a shop for a complete overhaul and no damage was found. On Jan 11th, we got back and Yaga was in the water and ready to go. Chinnock Marine had done a super job. What a difference! She ran smooth as silk, better than new. Before at 2500 RPM she would do 7.3 and now 7.6 and I expected better fuel economy as well. Yaga accelerated faster and backing down was great with less prop walk. Before we had to leave the transmission in reverse to prevent freewheeling but could not shift back to neutral without starting the engine (not good). Now no problem, it doesn't freewheel in neutral. We got under way 1300 Jan 12th heading for the Gulf Stream and points north. As we motored down the narrow New River of downtown Ft Lauderdale there was LOTS of boat traffic since is was a Friday. Great test of the new shaft and prop right out of the gate. The rail bridge did an automatic closing and we got stuck between 2 bridges with BIG powerboats, several sailboats and a strong current with no place to go or tie up. You get the picture. Control with the new prop was great. I highly recommend it. As far as sailing performance goes the operative word is 'feathering'. Once in the Gulf Stream where we felt great catching a 2.5 knot current until midnight when the wind shifted to the north at +25 knots. It caused very steep seas which forced us into Fort Pierce at 0300 Jan 13th. Debbie refers to this as ‘Perfect Storm 3” mainly because the Gulf Stream made the ride so rough. Our autopilot course computer must have gotten some water in it during the crossing. It failed due to corrosion on the terminals just as we headed into the jetties. We dropped sails and motored up the ICW through the night. The water got a little thin around Sebastian Inlet. We saw 7 feet mid channel for several miles. Our VHF antenna touched the bottom of several of the 65’ bridges along the waterway. Now that it was just the two of us and no autopilot, our plan was to motor against the north winds until midnight then anchor and sleep to six and continue up the ICW. We each steered until tired which was about 3 hours or so. Debbie fixed really good meals that made the long hours easy on us. We anchored in the Haulover Canal north of Cape Canaveral about 0100 and we were underway by 0700 Jan 14th. At this one spot, the ICW was being dredged due to some shoaling from a nearby inlet. While going around the dredge, we got struck for about 10 minutes. It was the only time we touched down on the 2100 miles voyage. We ran up the ICW to St. Augustine where we stayed at the city marina due to very foggy conditions. When the fog cleared at noon Jan 15th we headed back offshore where it again became very foggy. We were almost run down by a 25-foot fishing boat running at 20 knots in dense fog without radar! Debbie tracked him on our radar and realized he was moving fast and had a zero bearing rate. She used the air horn to warn him, which diverted certain disaster. You should of seen the look on those guy’s faces! A NOAA weather forecast of a gale off of Cape Fear NC with northeast winds forced us into Charleston around 1600 Jan 16. We planned to stay in the ICW the rest of the way to Norfolk. Cruising the ICW was a treat because there are no ocean swells or seas and you can pull over and stop when you get tired. But especially from 1800 until around midnight because there was zero traffic due to it being winter and no one was foolish enough to be out after dark. We therefore had no passing/meeting situations. We had the ICW to ourselves but we never took our watch keeping lightly. We maintained a constant lookout. That night we tied up at a fuel dock in McChellanville SC and the owner got up at 0630 to sell us fuel at 95 cents a gallon. During the morning we saw a doe swimming across the ICW near Alligator Island. Next stop was just west of Southport near Cape Fear. We found a new marina under construction right on the ICW and kept us from having to find an anchorage. At 0130 Jan 19th we made an overnight stop in Cedar Creek right off of Adams Creek at ICW St mile marker (St M) 188. We ran into heavy fog right before getting there but it provided good protection so we went the last mile at dead slow. We both gained valuable experience maneuvering in the fog while setting the anchor. We got up early to fog but headed out under Radar and the fog quickly lifted. We entered the Neuse River and passed near Oriental NC at St M 178 at 0800. We were able to get to the Alligator River to anchor overnight by 2230 near Tuckahoe Pt that also provided good protection. We felt running the Alligator River - Pongo River Canal at night was safe and a good way to get north quick since another cold front was coming our way. We could have anchored in the Pongo River just before entering the canal if we had not wanted to motor that night. Next morning just north of the Alligator River Bridge, we passed Long School Pt near St M 80. There the ICW 'jogged' to the east around shallow water off the point so we slowed down and watched the markers very carefully. It would be easy to make a mistake there. We chose not to go the Dismal Swamp route and followed the ICW eastern route. We stopped at Coinjock NC at St M 50 for fuel and dinner. We really enjoyed the great scenery and meeting the local people along the ICW. We were able to motorsail all the way to Norfolk that night and anchored at 2300 Jan 20th off the Portsmouth Navy Hospital at St M 0 in good water and bottom. The next morning the cold front arrived with 30+ winds and it was really getting cold. We topped of the tank at the marina in Portsmouth and sailed to the mouth of the Great Wicomico River just south of the Potomac and anchored just off the channel around 0130. On the way in, we also most ran into these fish traps that are a bunch of large poles in a long line sticking out of the water. Radar saved the day (night) for us since they are nearly invisible at night. For a while we felt trapped. It was up at 0630 for a cold day of sailing up the Chesapeake to Baltimore. Ice covered the foredeck and lifelines. And Debbie looked like an Eskimo steering Yaga and was wondering “What the hell am I doing here?” We pulled into Baltimore that Monday night Jan 22nd about 2100 and it was 18 degrees. We had to push through slush ice all the way from Fort McHenry to the Harbor View Marina in the inner harbor of Baltimore, about 2 miles. Debbie and I took a hot shower and crashed. I had to be at work at 0715. Yikes! We both really enjoyed the cruise and have gained valuable experience in the process. One thing we learned was that we are capable sailors and will do well as cruisers onboard Yaga. We also learned how to stay warm in the middle of the night on a sailboat in January on the East Coast. Not an easy thing to do without an AC Generator or diesel / propane heater. We found night sailing Yaga on the ICW with her electronic charts, radar, 1,000,000-candle power spotlight and the best lookout/navigator/first mate any skipper could possibly have, was very exciting. It was the only way we could have made the trip from Ft Lauderdale to Baltimore in just 11 days without going offshore full time. After a 2100 nautical mile ‘delivery’ voyage, we are now enjoying a warm spring and long weekends exploring the Eastern Shore of the Chesapeake Bay. So far Yaga has taken us to Annapolis on March 31st, St Michaels on April 6th and Botkin Creek on the Patapsco River for an Easter raft up. We have sat at anchor in the Inner Harbor of Baltimore next to the Sloop-of-War Constellation eating a pizza and drinking wine with our new friends from the marina. The only other vessel out that day was the topsail schooner Pride-of-Baltimore that passed by just 50 feet away. We waved and her skipper just smiled and waved back. Life is good.