The Lehman 80 had'nt been run for 2 yrs

[Patrick17430]

So we didn't get to take the Whitby out for test sail yesterday because the motor wouldn't start. The owner has had a friend of his who lives in the marina preparing the boat for sea trials because he lives out of state. For a week he has been putting the sails back on and going through the various systems including the motor to make it ready to go out. He bought 2 new batteries changed the fuel filters added a little fresh fuel and it wouldn't start. Yesterday an actual diesel tech discovered the starter didn't work, removed it and sent it off to be rebuilt. My question is...... What kind of damage can occur to a motor that has sat for 2 yrs. w/o being started ? And add in huge helping of Texas heat and humidity. Let me also add that there is no hour meter. The owner claims in has 3k to 4k in hours which brings another question to mind. How did he know when it was time to preform the required maintenance and service ?

 

[Steve Dion]

We had an Atomic 4 in our marina that had NOT been started in 18 years. It took some doing but they finally got it started and it ran great. This motor probably only had about 300-400 hrs on it so that could make a big difference.

I don't think that a couple of years is that big of a deal, but it really depends on the state of repair that the engine was in when it was last shut down.

 

[Ross]

I don't have an hour meter so I use fuel consumption or the calender to determine oil change timing. End of each season or twenty gallons.

 

[Stu Jackson]

Easy enough to add an hour meter. Many would suggest an oil analysis. That'll tell you if there's any foreign material, like engine parts(!) in the oil, but true oil analysis needs at least two samples over time to spot differences. You might also wanna check out Lehman websites. I'm sure there are websites or yahoo user groups that "specialize" in that make and model for your reading interest while you wait for the new starter.

We do just the opposite of what Ross does: our fuel gauge is out, so we use the hour meter for fuel refills and maintenance.

Got hauled on Monday for a bottom job and keel repairs at the Grand Marina boatyard, heading out now to retrieve her and back to the slip. Oh, yeah, gotta get fuel: hour meter is past its 20 hours for ten gallons of diesel. See? Simple.

The boat yard did a great job for a good price.

 

[Steve Dion]

Stu:

We have both. I have a fuel gauge & hour meter. I check fuel level and log after each fill. If we are coming to the bay our fuel consumption can run up near .8 gph. Normal running around the Delta is around .6 gph.

I attribute this to nose into the wind and many times runniung against the tide which can be very significant.

 

[njsail]

You might not want to use the fuel that was in the tanks for over 2 years. It's probably no longer usable. When we purchased our Bavaria 40 Ocean it was on the hard for 2-3 years. The fuel was no longer serviceable so we had to have it hauled away. For the survey I paid to have the oil changed and to connected to a small potable fuel source. My worry was the old fuel would contaminate the injectors or cause other issues. I was pleased with the result. The previous owner was nice enough to put it away with clean oils so the engine was in great shape. the engine fired right up after 2-3 years and I was smiling how smooth it ran. If you have an engine with 4k hours on it you might want to think about replacing injectors (=expensive) and a rebuild if you're going cruising to remote area's.
Good luck - don't forget to post pictures.

 

[Tim R.]

The cylinder walls are made of steel and unless the valve adjustment was backed off, at least one and likely more of the cylinders was exposed to that Texas humidity and salt air. That means rust. The rings in those cylinders could be seized in the rust. If you get them to move then the rings could break but I would insist on removing the head to visually inspect the cylinders. Also expect the valve seats to be corroded. I would guess that you will have some very uneven compression results. A complete rebuild would be suggested.

If the engine was properly decommissioned then a simple compression test is a good idea.

Either way I would not trust that engine. They deteriorate very quickly from non use. The block and components could be fine but as you have seen with the starter, other parts could be ready to die. Expensive parts like the lift pump, injectors, etc.

 

[Prime Time]

Significant Corrosion

IF the motor wasn't fogged or turned over from time to time, internal corrosion is a real possibility.

 

[Ray Bowles]

Tim is right on about the rings rusting and freezing up. That also can pit the cylinders where the rings sat. Additionally if there was any amount of moisture in the oil, a common condition in engines that have been run for only short periods, there can be pitting in the bearings of the crankshaft.
I would treat it as an engine in need of repair unless there is provable frequent useage of the engine prior to its disuse.
Ray

 

[MrBill_FLL]

for barn find cars, the old trick is put some liberal amts of marvel mystery oil into the cyls and hand turn over the crank several times.

not sure how to get oil in a diesel except to pull the head, or maybe the injectors?

 

[RichH]

The FIRST step should be to attempt to turn the engine over entirely BY HAND via long arm socket handle + socket on the crankshaft nose bolt. If you cant turn it over by hand or there is 'resistance' it means that the piston rings are 'frozen' in their grooves in the pistons and further 'forcing' will inevitably break the rings ... not good but not 'terminal'.

This freezing happens often on engines that havent been properly prepared for very long term storage. So, If the engine cant be turned over by HAND, it will have to be SOAKED with one of the various penetrating oils for a few days then 'gently' rocked back and forth with the long arm socket bar until it does free up ... then run with 'no load' and increasing rpm with a very lightweight oil in the crankcase to 'repolish' all the grooves and cylinder walls, etc. If the engine is 'partly frozen' and you attempt to start it with the 'starter' .... I'd deem this a *deal breaker* (as well as a piston ring breaker). Once the engine is 'soaked' after its found to be 'frozen up' most times there will be very little residual damage to the internals ... IF you soak and gently rock the crank back and forth until 'free' but NO 'forcing' it to break free.

;-)