The Deck I Bought -- The Deck I Have

[rardiH36]

While looking for a picture on my hard drive to include on a "All Sailors" post about chain plate caulk, I stumbled across a picture I took of my foredeck right after I bought my boat. Whereas I saw the potential (or maybe it was wishful thinking), I can now see why friends and relatives gave me the "are you nuts?" look when I gave them the grand tour of my new yacht.

Just thought I'd post the then and now pictures. I had forgotten how tired the boat looked. Its a transformation!

Anybody else have their own boat transformation pictures to share?

 

[brian3820]

Hi Rardi, Just starting my project now, an 84, 34 ft Hunter. Will be posting pics as well. What did you use top-side to restore the shine in all of your glass? Mine looks kind of rough.

 

[med2463]

While looking for a picture on my hard drive to include on a "All Sailors" post about chain plate caulk, I stumbled across a picture I took of my foredeck right after I bought my boat. Whereas I saw the potential (or maybe it was wishful thinking), I can now see why friends and relatives gave me the "are you nuts?" look when I gave them the grand tour of my new yacht.

Just thought I'd post the then and now pictures. I had forgotten how tired the boat looked. Its a transformation!

Anybody else have their own boat transformation pictures to share?

Like the eyebrow removed, we are planning on doing the same.

 

[Ed Schenck]

Bill is removing the eyebrow and I have new ones in the works in the basement.

I looked for before/after pictures. What I found reminds me of the state of digital cameras back in 2000. I think the camera was free from AOL when I joined. These are before/after pics when I painted the cabin trunk. :neutral:

 

[rardiH36]

When I bought the boat, the gelcoat on the deck and around the cabin top was oxidized, but I had expected that fine wet sanding and polish/wax would get it back to acceptable. However it was too far gone. Even aggressive rubbing with a terry cloth rag exposed the underlying FRP is a few spots. I restored with Interlux 2-part perfection. The exception is in the cockpit. The smooth gelcoat was not seriously oxidized in there. I still haven't restored. Just wax once per year and it looks OK.

The non-skid on the deck looked bad with lots of staining over the 27 years. But otherwise it was in very good mechanical shape and still had all of the original non-skid relief. I also used Perfection on it, mixed with Interlux's non-skid granules/powder. But I also added to the Perfection the max allowable percentage of "flattening agent" so that the non-skid wouldn't be glossy. The non-skid repaint has been on now for about 2.5 years. Aside from the occassional dropped tool, the surface still looks much as the day painted.

 

[rardiH36]

Bill is removing the eyebrow and I have new ones in the works in the basement.

I looked for before/after pictures. What I found reminds me of the state of digital cameras back in 2000. I think the camera was free from AOL when I joined. These are before/after pics when I painted the cabin trunk. :neutral:

Hi Ed:

Undoubtedly your much improved cabin top is due to your good workmanship and not the better quality of the digital camera!

 

[Ed Schenck]

My one-part Toplac has held up well. And like you still have not done the cockpit. My winter cover is good enough to allow me to bring the locker cover/seats home for the winter. I'll do those and then finish the cockpit in the spring. And I will use Perfection since I have an unused quart of primer and enough Perfection left from the mast work.

So do I paint the winch pads before, after, or replace with PlasTeak?

 

[rardiH36]

So do I paint the winch pads before, after, or replace with PlasTeak?

Ed:

I'm sure that you already know my answer. If you are contemplating removing the teak winch pads anyway, give painting a try first. My guess is that you then will never feel the need to replace them with PlasTeak. After sanding the wood, clean with acetone, mask around them and around the bottom of the winch drum. You probably recall that the paint that I am using is Rustoleum Hammered finish. The main painting tip with this product is don't do it in bright sun as the surface skins quickly and the still wet paint underneath begins to cause blisters because the volatiles are prevented from evaporating quickly enough. What color will you try? Silver?

 

[jorgefife]

Dear Rardi,
what was the color/code for the light grey you used?
I like it a lot!

 

[rardiH36]

Jorge:

The color code was Interlux Perfection Mediterranean White plus rardi's smidgeon of black tint to make a very light gray and also a smaller smidgeon of brown tint to remove the bluish gray look when only black tint is used. Next to me is a newer Catalina 355. I got pretty close to that color. Also I did my own color matching because the lightest stock Perfection gray was darker than I wanted.

My original deck color was a beige off-white about the same color intensity as the gray. So two coats of Perfection covered completely. To date, I have not seen any of the underlying beige show up... even in the higher traffic areas.

 

[jorgefife]

Thank you: I look at the color time and again, and that is my project in the months ahead
Shame on you people who removed the eyebrows: I am restoring mine, but I understand why you did it... as for the stainless grab rails???

 

[RTB]

Rardi, is your windlass mounted where the sampson post should be? Have you got pics of the installation?

A windlass installation will be one of my first projects before we head to the Bahamas. Not sure exactly where I will end up mounting it? Suggestions?

Thanks,
Ralph

 

[Jim Legere]

Anchor Windlass on H36

I don't know if the anchor locker at the bow of the H36 is as big as the one on the H37C, but I highly recommend installing a horizontal windlass in the there, out of the weather (if possible).

 

[Ed Schenck]

There are three windlass installations in the H37C modifications forum. Dave Simpson's might be the best: http://hunter.sailboatowners.com/in...&cat_id=38&aid=7004&page=article&mn=37-cutter . Like mine in the picture his is in the locker. Mine takes the chain all the way down to the keel.

 

[RTB]

Jim and Ed, thanks. I think the 36 must be quite a bit different. Here is a pic of the v-berth, showing the bottom of the anchor locker. I can mount the windlass in the locker, no problem, but it is just hull below the locker. Would you just drop the chain in there?

Nice transformation rardi! My deck is not much better than your starting pics, plus a soft area around the chainplates on the port side. Deck repair, paint, and non-skid projects in my near future. Thanks for all your great posts on the 36. That's why I'm here!

 

[rardiH36]

View attachment 46529

Rardi, is your windlass mounted where the sampson post should be? Have you got pics of the installation?

A windlass installation will be one of my first projects before we head to the Bahamas. Not sure exactly where I will end up mounting it? Suggestions?

Thanks,
Ralph

RTB:

Give me a bit of time to get the pics. But no, from what I can tell, the original sampson post on my boat is still there in its original mounting location. The windlass has been mounted (by a PO) aft of the sampson post. Part of the forward anchor locker cover has been cut away so the windlass could be mounted.

 

[RTB]

Hey, thanks. Does the chain just go into the existing locker then? Sorry to derail the thread, but have been trying to figure the best way to install a windlass on my boat.

Ralph

 

[Jim Legere]

Windlasses and chain lockers

RTB, The 37 has an open space under the anchor locker similar to the one in your picture. Originally I had my chain just drop there (150' - all chain rode) but I did install a little 'dam' to keep water and mud from migrating to the forepeak cushions. A couple of years later I installed a chain pipe to take the chain down to the locker below the berth, much as in Ed's picture. I am not entirely happy with this solution - the wet chain is out of sight and further aft, but sometimes it does not flake proberly and jams up in the pipe, necessitating a quick dash below decks!

 

[Ed H]

Old v. New

 

[rardiH36]

Hey, thanks. Does the chain just go into the existing locker then? Sorry to derail the thread, but have been trying to figure the best way to install a windlass on my boat.

Ralph

Ralph: Yes the chain and rope just flake into the existing locker. The windlass I have is the same model as the one Ed Schenck has pictured mounted in his H37 locker. Mine is mounted on the deck however. I don't haver in my mind's eye the exact mounting location and the cut-outs for it. And I dn't think I've got a good picture stored anywhere. I will be at my boat probably tomorrow and will take some.
regards, rardi