The Commodore is going to wax the boat

[Bob]

OK, all you Commodores and Admirals who fumed when you read my title and opened it to give me a broadside about making her do the hard work.And all you Captains and deck apes who are preparing to show this to their superiors as proof that boat waxing (and all the other chores) are really women's work.Know thee (or is it thou?) 2 things:1. While the Commodore is waxing the hull, I will be servicing the head and installing 2 vented loops, including 1 in the discharge line.2. It was the Commodore's idea to wax the hull.OK, got that out of the way. Here are my questions (referring to an '87 Hunter 31 fiberglass boat in pretty good condition):1. Can somebody give me a recommendation on what to use? Or to stay away from?2. Is there a need or advantage in using a power buffer?3. I know we're not supposed to wax the deck, especially the non-skid. West Marine sells 'Deck Traction Wax'. Is this (or equivalent) worth using?4. Should I just let the Commodore do the head work too, while I enjoy the baseball game? (Please identify yourself as Captain or Commodore if you answer this one Yes, I will make sure that power equipment is plugged into a GFCI breaker..... you see, I really do love my Commodore!Thanks in advance for all advice and suggestions.Cheers,Bob Werners/v X SAIL R 8

 

[SoupyT]

How big's your head?

Good God man! I'd gladly fix three heads than wax one topsides!Not that I'd have a choice, my Admiral (White Fleet, soon to be First Sea Lord) restricts herself to Cherry wood duties only.Regarding the hull, you have two choices, traditional wax, or super technical "wet look" polymer. Frankly, there isn't much to choose between the two. In both cases, the outcome is dictated by the surface condition of the gelcoat. And that is where the elbow grease comes in.Both wax and polymer have a finite life (rarely longer than a year). The problems only occur when you switch from one to the other, when you have to remove all traces of the previous treatment.I own two polishers, and they are both pathetic, they don't have the grunt to cut back the gelcoat, but are ok for the final buffing.

 

[BobW]

Should I show your post to the Commodore?

If I have to remove all traces of the previous treatment, is there some way to tell what is now there?Can you explain 'cut back the gelcoat' please?Cheers,Bobs/v XSAIL R 8

 

[George H260]

Waxing the boat

Check Practical Sailor for a recent test of boat waxes.

 

[SoupyT]

Cut, as in cutting compound

All polishing involves using something slightly abrasive, to remove a minute amount of surface material, in order to let the "finish" (e.g. wax) provide the best effect.Any gelcoat that has spend many years in sunlight, will suffer from surface oxidisation (it's pretty extreme here in CA) I notice this when I scrub the boat, and the water that runs of is slightly opaque.Polish or cutting compond will restore this. Obviously, what you then want to do, is make sure you keep up the waxing from that point, so you maintain a protective finish, and reduce the oxidization in future.

 

[George H260]

Boat Wax

Check Practical Sailor for a recent test of boat waxes. Vol 30, No 22 Nov 15, 2004"...Paste waxes prevail and Collinite 885 is king." Meguiar's Mirror Glaze was a close second and 3M's Untra Performance and West marine's Carnauba Paste also did well in the tests.

 

[Will]

Be sure to prep the hull before waxing...

Use premixed hull wash (not the powder stuff) with oxcilic (sp) acid in it-wear mask/goggles and gloves. Use a pump up garden sprayer, spray one side at a time wait five minutes and then scrub it with a white teflon pad and rinse well. For the wax I use Meguiar's with great results...