Thanks to all of you who answered my "Go Fast" request in early May. I was supprise to hear that a "Bottom Job" is as important as new sails. What is entailed with a complete "Bottom Job"? How much should it cost? Finally, what is the best method of knowing how much fuel in in the tank? I don't have a guage. Are there any good fuel guage systems available? I'll thank anyone who replys in advance. jfh
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Bottom job costs.
First you need to pay for a lift and a power wash. Then you need enough paint for the job + some tape and new zincs. I would think that 2 gal. of paint should do your boat. They usually charge by the foot plus the cost of the paint. If you are using the same type of paint you can either do a lite sanding or just paint over the old bottom if everything is in good shape. We pay about $500-550 for this to be done on our boat (31'). We are using Trinidad SR.
First you need to pay for a lift and a power wash. Then you need enough paint for the job + some tape and new zincs. I would think that 2 gal. of paint should do your boat. They usually charge by the foot plus the cost of the paint. If you are using the same type of paint you can either do a lite sanding or just paint over the old bottom if everything is in good shape. We pay about $500-550 for this to be done on our boat (31'). We are using Trinidad SR.
oops!
Forgot about the fuel guage. If you have a plastic (non-metallic) tank you can get the accuguage from HOW web site.
Forgot about the fuel guage. If you have a plastic (non-metallic) tank you can get the accuguage from HOW web site.
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Andy Howard
fuel gauge
Steve's right on target for an "easy out easy in" bottom job. But be prepared for suprises. Heavy keel rust, a heavy build up, or poor condition, of prior bottom coats may require sanding or stripping down to the origional gell coat. That might put you into the $700 to $1000 range. Another fantastic HOW member, Bruce Chase, recently gave me a great idea for a fuel gauge. Since i needed to clean out some sludge from my old tank he suggested I get a 4 3/4" snap-in deck plate (2001 West Marine master catalog page 466) and a Tempo mechanical fuel gauge(West Marine page 295) Install the snap in deck plate on the fuel tank to give you access when you eventually need to do a little cleaning and mount the mechanical gauge on the cover. If you want details email me at ahoward@coastalnet.com
Steve's right on target for an "easy out easy in" bottom job. But be prepared for suprises. Heavy keel rust, a heavy build up, or poor condition, of prior bottom coats may require sanding or stripping down to the origional gell coat. That might put you into the $700 to $1000 range. Another fantastic HOW member, Bruce Chase, recently gave me a great idea for a fuel gauge. Since i needed to clean out some sludge from my old tank he suggested I get a 4 3/4" snap-in deck plate (2001 West Marine master catalog page 466) and a Tempo mechanical fuel gauge(West Marine page 295) Install the snap in deck plate on the fuel tank to give you access when you eventually need to do a little cleaning and mount the mechanical gauge on the cover. If you want details email me at ahoward@coastalnet.com
C
Claude L.-Auger
Snap in Deck plate to install fuel gauge ?
Sounds like a great idea Andy, and I am interested in doing it, but before I do, can you answer a few questions: 1) How do you seal the whole thing and prevent fuel from leaking out when tank is full and boat is heeling ? 2)Is the plastic that the deck plate is made off impervious to diesel fuel like the tank is? 3)Is this change ABYC approved ? If not, what does it do to your insurance coverage since it does create changes to the fuel system ? Thanks for the info.
Sounds like a great idea Andy, and I am interested in doing it, but before I do, can you answer a few questions: 1) How do you seal the whole thing and prevent fuel from leaking out when tank is full and boat is heeling ? 2)Is the plastic that the deck plate is made off impervious to diesel fuel like the tank is? 3)Is this change ABYC approved ? If not, what does it do to your insurance coverage since it does create changes to the fuel system ? Thanks for the info.
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Andy Howard
RE: Snap in Deck plate to install fuel gauge
Good questions Claude. I had to ask around but here's what I found out. 1) The best sealant is a neopream gasket, while an auto parts store might also sell a "gasket in a tube" mixture impervious to diesel. You can also use epoxy which is used to plug aluminum fuel tanks. 2) The plastic used is fine, probably tougher than the polyethelene tank itself. 3) This one got me thinking. I've got a inland waterway policy through allstate that's really designed for fishing and ski boats. They've probably never even heard of ABYC standards. I talked to my surveyor this morning and he gave me a reluctant go ahead, suggesting a screw in plate instead of a snap in type. But, this is probably something you would want to discuss with your agent.
Good questions Claude. I had to ask around but here's what I found out. 1) The best sealant is a neopream gasket, while an auto parts store might also sell a "gasket in a tube" mixture impervious to diesel. You can also use epoxy which is used to plug aluminum fuel tanks. 2) The plastic used is fine, probably tougher than the polyethelene tank itself. 3) This one got me thinking. I've got a inland waterway policy through allstate that's really designed for fishing and ski boats. They've probably never even heard of ABYC standards. I talked to my surveyor this morning and he gave me a reluctant go ahead, suggesting a screw in plate instead of a snap in type. But, this is probably something you would want to discuss with your agent.
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