Has any one found a good way to Repair, Repaint or just forget about the white wall board in the head and other numerous places that Hunter put it? It seems where this gets wet or has a cut it likes to flake off leaving the wood or a facsimle of wood exposed.
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John K Kudera
Paint
Hi, I think you answered your own question. Find and repair the warer leak first. Then,sand, prime and paint the area with a good grade indoor/outdoor enamel. John Kudera
Hi, I think you answered your own question. Find and repair the warer leak first. Then,sand, prime and paint the area with a good grade indoor/outdoor enamel. John Kudera
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Paul Akers
Pheno-seal
I had flaking wallboard at the base of the shower when I bought my Hunter. I chipped away all the loose bubbles and fortunately there was no damage. I resealed it with a product called Pheno-seal that I bought at Home Depot. It come in a tube, like caulking. I used a plastic squee-gee to smooth it out and it has been been fine for 5 years. For wide areas, I'd probably look for some type of paint product. I understand a product called Kilz works well also and is found in the paint section. That will require a couple of coats.
I had flaking wallboard at the base of the shower when I bought my Hunter. I chipped away all the loose bubbles and fortunately there was no damage. I resealed it with a product called Pheno-seal that I bought at Home Depot. It come in a tube, like caulking. I used a plastic squee-gee to smooth it out and it has been been fine for 5 years. For wide areas, I'd probably look for some type of paint product. I understand a product called Kilz works well also and is found in the paint section. That will require a couple of coats.
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Stephen Ostrander
laminate
You can apply high-pressure laminate (Formica) over the board but that is a much bigger job than painting.
You can apply high-pressure laminate (Formica) over the board but that is a much bigger job than painting.
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Thomas FitzGibbon
KILZ good, but...
The product Paul recommended, KILZ, is a great alcohol-based stain killing primer. It is wonderful at sealing in stains, including mildew stains (you have to get rid of the mildew first, it just seals in the stain) so they don't show through the paint, and it dries very quickly so you can recoat or paint over it same day (or even same morning, I think). BUT it goes on very thin (like water) and is just a primer. You'll need to cover it with a paint. When I remodeled my upstairs bathroom at home, I used a special bathhroom paint intended to combat mildew and similar stains. I don't see why you couldn't use it in the head. Check your local paint store or Home Depot. Good luck.
The product Paul recommended, KILZ, is a great alcohol-based stain killing primer. It is wonderful at sealing in stains, including mildew stains (you have to get rid of the mildew first, it just seals in the stain) so they don't show through the paint, and it dries very quickly so you can recoat or paint over it same day (or even same morning, I think). BUT it goes on very thin (like water) and is just a primer. You'll need to cover it with a paint. When I remodeled my upstairs bathroom at home, I used a special bathhroom paint intended to combat mildew and similar stains. I don't see why you couldn't use it in the head. Check your local paint store or Home Depot. Good luck.
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Mickey Goodman
Vinyl Wallpaper
Tomorrow morning I am attacking the refinishing of my head, boy does that sound strange. As many of you know I bought a boat that had a cabin fire and that required me to do alot of work inside the boat. I am going to put vinyl wallpaper on all exposed wall surfaces. A good vinyl, I would suggest a cloth backed will work great as a water barrier and prevent and water seepage through to the supporting surface since the largest width is wider than the wallpaper I will be putting the wallpaper horizontal reather than vertical. I will butt the pieces up to each other as you would do in a house but I will put a coat of silicone sealer over the seams and then put a piece of teak to cover the seams. I don't expect to have any problems. By the way I will not use wallpaper paste but I will use 3M spray adhesive onto the wallpaper then apply it to the surface.
Tomorrow morning I am attacking the refinishing of my head, boy does that sound strange. As many of you know I bought a boat that had a cabin fire and that required me to do alot of work inside the boat. I am going to put vinyl wallpaper on all exposed wall surfaces. A good vinyl, I would suggest a cloth backed will work great as a water barrier and prevent and water seepage through to the supporting surface since the largest width is wider than the wallpaper I will be putting the wallpaper horizontal reather than vertical. I will butt the pieces up to each other as you would do in a house but I will put a coat of silicone sealer over the seams and then put a piece of teak to cover the seams. I don't expect to have any problems. By the way I will not use wallpaper paste but I will use 3M spray adhesive onto the wallpaper then apply it to the surface.
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Peggie Hall/Head Mistress
Mickey, don't use 3M cement!
The right wallpaper paste will hold for decades if you prep the wall properly first. 99% of wallcovering replacement (done right) happens because the material has just gotten grungier than anyone wants to live with, not because it's falling off the walls...and if you use a contact cement, removing it when it does finally needs replacement will be a nightmare. Plus, I don't know how you'll ever work the air pockets out of it. And hang the strips vertically...you'll never have invisible seams if you hang them horizontally. I replaced all the vinyl wallcovering on my own boat. It's definitely a one-day job! Step 1. Wash the entire surface with mineral spirits (Obviously, the boat should be VERY well ventilated!). Allow to dry for 24 hours. Step 2. Apply the correct primer to the entire surface (It's as time consuming and painstaking as painting the entire wall). Allow to cure for 24 hours. Step 3. Hang wallcovering, using the correct paste for that material. If you skip steps 1 and 2, the paste won't paste. I used a vinyl wallcovering that's actually a cloth...very soft, very easy to work with. Found it (and all the other materials I needed) at Sherwin Williams. And, after years of hanging wallpaper at home, I've found that pasting the wall instead of the wallcovering makes the job much easier. Use a plumb bob, and start in the middle of a wall, never in a corner, 'cuz corners are never exactly plumb. Measure so that no strip ends in a corner, but about 4-6" wraps around it. Cut your strips approx 2" longer than the surface, so that you only have about 1" to trim at top and bottom...use a razor knife, and change the blade after every 2 or 3 strips. Don't even THINK of trying to cut them exactly before hanging...it'll never work. Use a wallpaper brush to get each strip down, then work all the bubbles out with a straight-edge (I use the back of the brush) and a damp sponge...don't trim anything till you get ALL the bubbles out. Otherwise, your wallcovering will start to go crooked. Use a seam roller to flatten the edges...it's the ONLY way you'll ever get invisible seams. And if a seam tries to lift, fix it with a little tube of "patching paste" (buy a couple when you buy the rest of your materials. DON'T RUSH THE JOB!!! Good results require painstaking effort, and wallpapering a room is a walk in the park compared to working on a boat...'cuz boats don't have square lines. It took me 3 full weekends to hang 3 double rolls on my boat...but a professional looking job is worth the effort.
The right wallpaper paste will hold for decades if you prep the wall properly first. 99% of wallcovering replacement (done right) happens because the material has just gotten grungier than anyone wants to live with, not because it's falling off the walls...and if you use a contact cement, removing it when it does finally needs replacement will be a nightmare. Plus, I don't know how you'll ever work the air pockets out of it. And hang the strips vertically...you'll never have invisible seams if you hang them horizontally. I replaced all the vinyl wallcovering on my own boat. It's definitely a one-day job! Step 1. Wash the entire surface with mineral spirits (Obviously, the boat should be VERY well ventilated!). Allow to dry for 24 hours. Step 2. Apply the correct primer to the entire surface (It's as time consuming and painstaking as painting the entire wall). Allow to cure for 24 hours. Step 3. Hang wallcovering, using the correct paste for that material. If you skip steps 1 and 2, the paste won't paste. I used a vinyl wallcovering that's actually a cloth...very soft, very easy to work with. Found it (and all the other materials I needed) at Sherwin Williams. And, after years of hanging wallpaper at home, I've found that pasting the wall instead of the wallcovering makes the job much easier. Use a plumb bob, and start in the middle of a wall, never in a corner, 'cuz corners are never exactly plumb. Measure so that no strip ends in a corner, but about 4-6" wraps around it. Cut your strips approx 2" longer than the surface, so that you only have about 1" to trim at top and bottom...use a razor knife, and change the blade after every 2 or 3 strips. Don't even THINK of trying to cut them exactly before hanging...it'll never work. Use a wallpaper brush to get each strip down, then work all the bubbles out with a straight-edge (I use the back of the brush) and a damp sponge...don't trim anything till you get ALL the bubbles out. Otherwise, your wallcovering will start to go crooked. Use a seam roller to flatten the edges...it's the ONLY way you'll ever get invisible seams. And if a seam tries to lift, fix it with a little tube of "patching paste" (buy a couple when you buy the rest of your materials. DON'T RUSH THE JOB!!! Good results require painstaking effort, and wallpapering a room is a walk in the park compared to working on a boat...'cuz boats don't have square lines. It took me 3 full weekends to hang 3 double rolls on my boat...but a professional looking job is worth the effort.
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Mickey Goodman
Used the 3M Cement and It Worked
I didn't read Peggy's response until after I completed the wallpapering in the head. So I went ahead with my plan. The prior owner used a spray adhesive that left a residue on the walls so my plan was to do the same thing. The striping of the wallpaper was a breeze. It just pulled away without any trouble. My original intention was to get extra wide wallpaper that was at least 34" wide, the widest area to wallpaper, but I could not find that size locally and I wasn't going to wait to get it done. The prior owner hung the wallpaper horizontally and has small teak strips covering the seams. I decided to follow the same method as what was on the walls. As far as the air bubbles. That was easy. After installing the paper I picked up a cornor and using a rubber roller, a rolling pin would due, I was able to roll out all the air bubbles. As I said before, I used clear silacone cememt on the seams and then covered them with the teak strips. All in all I was pleased with the job. It took me no more then 2 hours taking everything into consideration. I have experience wallpapering. I installed over 100 rolls of wallpaper in a house I once owned. I guess you could take a day doing the job so that every seam is invisable but with the covering seam with teak the job would go much faster.
I didn't read Peggy's response until after I completed the wallpapering in the head. So I went ahead with my plan. The prior owner used a spray adhesive that left a residue on the walls so my plan was to do the same thing. The striping of the wallpaper was a breeze. It just pulled away without any trouble. My original intention was to get extra wide wallpaper that was at least 34" wide, the widest area to wallpaper, but I could not find that size locally and I wasn't going to wait to get it done. The prior owner hung the wallpaper horizontally and has small teak strips covering the seams. I decided to follow the same method as what was on the walls. As far as the air bubbles. That was easy. After installing the paper I picked up a cornor and using a rubber roller, a rolling pin would due, I was able to roll out all the air bubbles. As I said before, I used clear silacone cememt on the seams and then covered them with the teak strips. All in all I was pleased with the job. It took me no more then 2 hours taking everything into consideration. I have experience wallpapering. I installed over 100 rolls of wallpaper in a house I once owned. I guess you could take a day doing the job so that every seam is invisable but with the covering seam with teak the job would go much faster.
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Rod Leonard
Thanks
Never thought of wall papering and I use to hang it for a living DU. Thanks for the imput. This has to be the best Boating Web Page
Never thought of wall papering and I use to hang it for a living DU. Thanks for the imput. This has to be the best Boating Web Page
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