Thanks Mainsail for advice on belt problems.

[TomY]

I chased this one for a couple seasons. I went through a half a dozen belts last season. I've gone to a different notched belt which fits the pulleys better.

What helped the most was Mainsails advice to keep after alignment. My set up is not unusual so don't give up.

On alignment, I couldn't really detect a problem using conventional methods with a straight edge. One problem is an engine pulley that is not flat throughout.

Mainsail suggested using calipers directly to the belt edge. It was still difficult to find a conclusive amoutn, but the method showed some consistent measurements showing the alternator was aft a smidge of engine pulley alignment.

This also dovetailed into the fact wear was on one side of the belt, the front edge.

Some filing and now 2 washers later, things are much improved. Some very minor dusting which may be attributed to the new belt.

I haven't run it through some real deep charging cycles but I think I'm out of the woods now after many hours of running.

When I rebuilt the galley cabinetry around the engine, I installed 1/4" Lexan between the door and engine(I thought why not give it a try, I had a scrap anyway in the shop).

That too is working quite well. It does in fact cut down sound transmission(one quality of polycarbonate). As I like to constantly check the running engine, it's been working well for me.

Here's a photo of the engine ticking away.

 

[Maine Sail]

Glad it is working out! You still have minimal belt wrap on the alt so you may still get some when the alt is tasked..

I love the lexan panel for the engine, a man after my own heart...

 

[Stu Jackson]

I agree, looks great. If you have an external regulator, you might be interested in the Small Engine Mode if you have that feature. I've linked it a number of times, do a search on that phrase with my name.

 

[TomY]

I agree, looks great. If you have an external regulator, you might be interested in the Small Engine Mode if you have that feature. I've linked it a number of times, do a search on that phrase with my name.

Thanks Stu. Last season I did set the Xantrex controller to the lower output. I have to say, I'm not sure it worked. It's a tricky thing to set. I don't think there's the above setting you mention with this external regulator.

 

[Maine Sail]

Kris,

What model of Balmar regulator did you have fail? I remember you saying on CS-BB you had one or two fail but I can't remember which model it was? Were these in the engine bay?

 

[TomY]

Kris,

What model of Balmar regulator did you have fail? I remember you saying on CS-BB you had one or two fail but I can't remember which model it was? Were these in the engine bay?

The first and only failure so far was the ARS-4. It was in fact in the engine compartment. But that never gets too hot on my boat. It looked like a short inside the epoxy block happened. Could have been the heat though. I heard of several giving out in short use.

Then I used a simple Ford regulator(and still keep it for a spare) for a couple seasons. Balmar was so useless even though the warranty was just out of date, I just didn't see any sense in buying another. The time on the regulator was so small.

A few years back I bought an Xantrex from Hamilton which looks exactly the same(and I'm sure it is). I did mount this outside the engine compartment.

Knowing what I know now, I never would have invested in Balmar, the alternator and regulator. Better and cheaper systems, especially for my use, are available.

 

[Stu Jackson]

Thanks Stu. Last season I did set the Xantrex controller to the lower output. I have to say, I'm not sure it worked. It's a tricky thing to set. I don't think there's the above setting you mention with this external regulator.

Any of the regulators with the optional alternator temperature contacts can do Small Engine Mode. The ARS-5 does and is included on page 13 of the manual on Balmar's website. The ARS4 also has those taps.

The concept is to NOT use the reed switch, but the alternator temperature contacts. http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,4669.0.html

 

[TomY]

Any of the regulators with the optional alternator temperature contacts can do Small Engine Mode. The ARS-5 does and is included on page 13 of the manual on Balmar's website. The ARS4 also has those taps.

The concept is to NOT use the reed switch, but the alternator temperature contacts. http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,4669.0.html

You have to be kidding me Stu. You mean if I hook up a toggle on the two spades, I can close the circuit and get 50% output? Of course I can, now that you mention it. Of course the heat sensor (which I don't have) would do that but not until the alternator got hot(and the belt suffered).

Truth is, the wand is nearly impossible as I use it about once every two years and the whole thing is tedious to say the least.

So to summarize, I can reset the wand settings(except battery type), I can hook up the switch to the two empty spades, leave it open for normal use (for me, just a light charge for lightly depleted batteries) and when I drag the house bank down(I know when I've done that), I can close the switch and the regulator will cut back to 50% output.

Thank you very much, this is very helpful.

 

[Stu Jackson]

You got it! Sad to say it's NOT in the ARS4 instructions, but is for the 5. All the best.