I have a 1995 Hunter 336 with a Yanmar 3gm30f with the warning buzzer. I would like to add a temp gauge, and oil pressure. Yanmar does not have a reccomended set of guages. Anyone have any experince with adding temp and oil pressure?
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Adding guages
It is posible, but I don't recomend it. THe coolant sending unit will need to be removed and a "T" placed, then a sending unit for the guage added. The location of the temp sender is ok, but most of the nipples out there are brass and will crack under the vibration. I won't do this for an oil pressure guage, when asked. The oil pressure switch is to close to the belts, and when a "T" and nipple are added you will run into interferance issues. Otherwise, if you want to do this the threads are pipe thread and any guage from the auto parts store or West will work. Pat McCartin Inland Marine Diesel Buford, Ga imd_ga@hotmail.com
It is posible, but I don't recomend it. THe coolant sending unit will need to be removed and a "T" placed, then a sending unit for the guage added. The location of the temp sender is ok, but most of the nipples out there are brass and will crack under the vibration. I won't do this for an oil pressure guage, when asked. The oil pressure switch is to close to the belts, and when a "T" and nipple are added you will run into interferance issues. Otherwise, if you want to do this the threads are pipe thread and any guage from the auto parts store or West will work. Pat McCartin Inland Marine Diesel Buford, Ga imd_ga@hotmail.com
Added gauges to my Hunter 31
A couple of years ago I used Roy Mosteller's instructions for adding water temperature and oil pressure gauges to my 2GM20F. It was a precise job but not beyond the skills of an oil changing computer programmer. I must confess that I took the Mack Boring 3-day Yanmar class before I modified my control panel. Roy's instructions were sent direct from him to my home address. I don't know if he is still sending them out. If not, let me know at rip@edmundson.com and I'll try to find my old copy. Roy included part numbers for all the parts required from West Marine. I installed mine in about half a day 3 years ago. No problems with brass fittings or belt wear yet. The parts are very close to the belt and I do watch it closely. I inspect a number of parts of the engine before going out. I love having gauges. I watch water temp for rise indicating weeds blocking the intake. That has saved me a couple of times already. I always glance down at the gauges before entering a narrow gap with limited space. Rip Edmundson
A couple of years ago I used Roy Mosteller's instructions for adding water temperature and oil pressure gauges to my 2GM20F. It was a precise job but not beyond the skills of an oil changing computer programmer. I must confess that I took the Mack Boring 3-day Yanmar class before I modified my control panel. Roy's instructions were sent direct from him to my home address. I don't know if he is still sending them out. If not, let me know at rip@edmundson.com and I'll try to find my old copy. Roy included part numbers for all the parts required from West Marine. I installed mine in about half a day 3 years ago. No problems with brass fittings or belt wear yet. The parts are very close to the belt and I do watch it closely. I inspect a number of parts of the engine before going out. I love having gauges. I watch water temp for rise indicating weeds blocking the intake. That has saved me a couple of times already. I always glance down at the gauges before entering a narrow gap with limited space. Rip Edmundson
do not add the gauges
Last year I took the Yanmar course at Mack Boring. The instructor stressed that we should not add the gauges. The lights and particularly the buzzer will tell you about a problem before it is serious. As long as you check the buzzer each time you start the engine you should be fine. Also, as the other posts note if you add gauges it is one more potential problem with leaks.
Last year I took the Yanmar course at Mack Boring. The instructor stressed that we should not add the gauges. The lights and particularly the buzzer will tell you about a problem before it is serious. As long as you check the buzzer each time you start the engine you should be fine. Also, as the other posts note if you add gauges it is one more potential problem with leaks.
buzzer vs temp guage
That was an interseting answer to the temp guage, not to install one. At what temp does the buzzer go off? My seems to go off at 3000 rpm after about 15 mon under load. Factory 2 blade prop. I ran for 30 hours straight after that, had just bought boat, and was moving it from St Pete to Ft Lauderdale. Tested it again. At 3000 rpm buzzer started after 15 min, dropped to 2700, went silent after 2 min, ran for 30 hours again. I thought a temp gauge might help understand the situation. Any advise would be appreciated.
That was an interseting answer to the temp guage, not to install one. At what temp does the buzzer go off? My seems to go off at 3000 rpm after about 15 mon under load. Factory 2 blade prop. I ran for 30 hours straight after that, had just bought boat, and was moving it from St Pete to Ft Lauderdale. Tested it again. At 3000 rpm buzzer started after 15 min, dropped to 2700, went silent after 2 min, ran for 30 hours again. I thought a temp gauge might help understand the situation. Any advise would be appreciated.
Mickey,
Your additional info leads me to believe that a couple of things could be the answer. The problem is you aren't disapating the heat you are creating at the higher loads. 1) Elbow is cloging up 2) Impeller is old and the blades are missing or have memory 3) The heat exchanger has build up 4) The impeller might have broken a blade and the blade is stuck on the heat exchanger 5) Your intack strainer might be cloged. 6) The temp sensor could be bad-unlikely A freshwater cooled engine is designed to run between 160 and 180 deg F. Pat McCartin Inland Marine Diesel Buford, Ga imd_ga@hotmail.com
Your additional info leads me to believe that a couple of things could be the answer. The problem is you aren't disapating the heat you are creating at the higher loads. 1) Elbow is cloging up 2) Impeller is old and the blades are missing or have memory 3) The heat exchanger has build up 4) The impeller might have broken a blade and the blade is stuck on the heat exchanger 5) Your intack strainer might be cloged. 6) The temp sensor could be bad-unlikely A freshwater cooled engine is designed to run between 160 and 180 deg F. Pat McCartin Inland Marine Diesel Buford, Ga imd_ga@hotmail.com
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