Hi everyone I am going to paint the deck of my boat this winter. Has anyone ever removed the thin teak strips along the side of the deck and reinstalled them. It looks like you need to drill out the pugs and replace them. Is the trim held on with screws? Thanks for your help
teak trim
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Screwdriver
Take a flat screwdriver to the center of the teak plugs and drive it in. Give it a twist and the plugs should pop out. Screws are most likely beneath.
Take a flat screwdriver to the center of the teak plugs and drive it in. Give it a twist and the plugs should pop out. Screws are most likely beneath.
3-M Co. make a tape
muised, Look for "Fine Line Tape" made by 3-M. It is a very narrow 1/4" vinyl tape that is very sticky and seals down tight so as not to allow paint to crawl under, and goes around corners super nice.. Auto body shops use it. I plan to use it on my 222 this spring for putting on the Siekens Cetol on my teak and not having to remove it from the boat. I will get a sharp crisp edge and will lay a 1/2 " regular masking tape on the out side edge to create a wider safety zone. It is good stuff. Sailing is NOT a matter of life or death, it is more important than that. BTW,, I had my boat buffed out and waxed, decks and hull by a Marine Detail Shop just a couple weeks ago as my decks gel coat looked like they have never been waxed.. It came out about 90% better and am very happy. They said it may need to be done one more time..Cost was $15.00 ft. Just over ($300.00 on the 222). This way I won't have to worry about paint coming off..
muised, Look for "Fine Line Tape" made by 3-M. It is a very narrow 1/4" vinyl tape that is very sticky and seals down tight so as not to allow paint to crawl under, and goes around corners super nice.. Auto body shops use it. I plan to use it on my 222 this spring for putting on the Siekens Cetol on my teak and not having to remove it from the boat. I will get a sharp crisp edge and will lay a 1/2 " regular masking tape on the out side edge to create a wider safety zone. It is good stuff. Sailing is NOT a matter of life or death, it is more important than that. BTW,, I had my boat buffed out and waxed, decks and hull by a Marine Detail Shop just a couple weeks ago as my decks gel coat looked like they have never been waxed.. It came out about 90% better and am very happy. They said it may need to be done one more time..Cost was $15.00 ft. Just over ($300.00 on the 222). This way I won't have to worry about paint coming off..
teak plugs
Thanks for the help sounds like that would work nicely. Do you know a good resource to get new plugs?
Thanks for the help sounds like that would work nicely. Do you know a good resource to get new plugs?
I've had to replace my teak moulding
I had to replace one of my teak mouldings on my 222 years ago. It's held on by S.S. wood screws beneath the teak bungs. I wasn't sure how to remove the bungs without messing up the screw holes, so I found the answer in a book that I borrowed from the Public Library entitled "Boat Carpentry", by Hervey Garrett Smith. He says to take an ordinary small wood screw, and cut the head off it and insert it into a drill brace, and carefully drill the center of the bung with it. When the tip of the screw bit hits the head of the wood screw beneath the bung,the bung will come right up. I've used this and it works, but sometimes you need to clean out the hole very carefully with a very small crafter's chisel. When you reinstall the moulding, you can glue the new bungs back in, making sure that the wood grain of the bung is running in the same direction as the grain of the moulding. The type of glue that you use for the bungs is up to you. I used epoxy on mine. They used to use varnish in the old days. When the glue dries, just take a sharp chisel, and cutting with the grain, cut the bung off leaving it a little high so you can sand it flush to the moulding, with sand paper. I hope I was able to help. Good luck!
I had to replace one of my teak mouldings on my 222 years ago. It's held on by S.S. wood screws beneath the teak bungs. I wasn't sure how to remove the bungs without messing up the screw holes, so I found the answer in a book that I borrowed from the Public Library entitled "Boat Carpentry", by Hervey Garrett Smith. He says to take an ordinary small wood screw, and cut the head off it and insert it into a drill brace, and carefully drill the center of the bung with it. When the tip of the screw bit hits the head of the wood screw beneath the bung,the bung will come right up. I've used this and it works, but sometimes you need to clean out the hole very carefully with a very small crafter's chisel. When you reinstall the moulding, you can glue the new bungs back in, making sure that the wood grain of the bung is running in the same direction as the grain of the moulding. The type of glue that you use for the bungs is up to you. I used epoxy on mine. They used to use varnish in the old days. When the glue dries, just take a sharp chisel, and cutting with the grain, cut the bung off leaving it a little high so you can sand it flush to the moulding, with sand paper. I hope I was able to help. Good luck!
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