So, I get to redo the teak on our Hunter 34 this winter. Luckily, there isn't much, but I was wondering what the other folks here did. I am thinking of going to Cetol route to keep it nice and easy in the future. 1. Do you strip the old varnish off or sand the it off? I have heard to strip most of it and sand it off the hatch boards or something of the sort. Why not just sand it all? 2. Do you refinish the teak when the boat is sitting in the water, or do you take the pieces off and do it at home? We only have grab rails, hatch boards, and a couple of other small pieces. Are these hard to get off (grab rails, etc.)? Thanks.
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So, I get to redo the teak on our Hunter 34 this winter. Luckily, there isn't much, but I was wondering what the other folks here did. I am thinking of going to Cetol route to keep it nice and easy in the future. 1. Do you strip the old varnish off or sand the it off? I have heard to strip most of it and sand it off the hatch boards or something of the sort. Why not just sand it all? 2. Do you refinish the teak when the boat is sitting in the water, or do you take the pieces off and do it at home? We only have grab rails, hatch boards, and a couple of other small pieces. Are these hard to get off (grab rails, etc.)? Thanks.
I just replaced most of my teak with starboard and
stainless rails. I give up! Hunter built the handrail wrong on my 34. The standoffs are screwed to the rails. Two pieces per loop, so they can never hold varnish. Oh well. The pictures on my web site are mostly numbered 90 and above for before and after shots.
stainless rails. I give up! Hunter built the handrail wrong on my 34. The standoffs are screwed to the rails. Two pieces per loop, so they can never hold varnish. Oh well. The pictures on my web site are mostly numbered 90 and above for before and after shots.
I just replaced most of my teak with starboard and
stainless rails. I give up! Hunter built the handrail wrong on my 34. The standoffs are screwed to the rails. Two pieces per loop, so they can never hold varnish. Oh well. The pictures on my web site are mostly numbered 90 and above for before and after shots.
stainless rails. I give up! Hunter built the handrail wrong on my 34. The standoffs are screwed to the rails. Two pieces per loop, so they can never hold varnish. Oh well. The pictures on my web site are mostly numbered 90 and above for before and after shots.
A pain in the.....
Getting the handrails off can be a pain. You will have to drill out the bungs covering the screws. Hopefully, you have easy access to the nuts through the cabin ceiling and the little monsters won't be rusted solid. I refinished my handrails while they were in place. If you go that route, I strongly recommend buying the masking tape strips shaped to cover around the bottoms of the rails. They are worth it. As to why some people suggest stripping instead of sanding: sanding teak is a tricky thing. Because it is so oily, the dust tends to clog the grain instead of blowing away. This clogging prevents good adhesion of whatever coating you are applying. Sanding teak is also a little too easy. You can easily wind up sanding away too much. Do not ask me how I know this. Cetol or varnish or oil? Check the archives of this site for some spirited discussions. I went with Semco teak finish, which is something inbetween oil and cetol. It went on like stain, and the finish looked new for about two or three months before it began to deteriorate (about half as long as I hoped/was promised). There is also a product called Bristol Finish which supposedly looks like a beautiful varnish, but lasts longer and is much easier to maintain. I got some product information on it once, and was immediately turned off by the price. Maybe it would be worth it to you.
Getting the handrails off can be a pain. You will have to drill out the bungs covering the screws. Hopefully, you have easy access to the nuts through the cabin ceiling and the little monsters won't be rusted solid. I refinished my handrails while they were in place. If you go that route, I strongly recommend buying the masking tape strips shaped to cover around the bottoms of the rails. They are worth it. As to why some people suggest stripping instead of sanding: sanding teak is a tricky thing. Because it is so oily, the dust tends to clog the grain instead of blowing away. This clogging prevents good adhesion of whatever coating you are applying. Sanding teak is also a little too easy. You can easily wind up sanding away too much. Do not ask me how I know this. Cetol or varnish or oil? Check the archives of this site for some spirited discussions. I went with Semco teak finish, which is something inbetween oil and cetol. It went on like stain, and the finish looked new for about two or three months before it began to deteriorate (about half as long as I hoped/was promised). There is also a product called Bristol Finish which supposedly looks like a beautiful varnish, but lasts longer and is much easier to maintain. I got some product information on it once, and was immediately turned off by the price. Maybe it would be worth it to you.
A pain in the.....
Getting the handrails off can be a pain. You will have to drill out the bungs covering the screws. Hopefully, you have easy access to the nuts through the cabin ceiling and the little monsters won't be rusted solid. I refinished my handrails while they were in place. If you go that route, I strongly recommend buying the masking tape strips shaped to cover around the bottoms of the rails. They are worth it. As to why some people suggest stripping instead of sanding: sanding teak is a tricky thing. Because it is so oily, the dust tends to clog the grain instead of blowing away. This clogging prevents good adhesion of whatever coating you are applying. Sanding teak is also a little too easy. You can easily wind up sanding away too much. Do not ask me how I know this. Cetol or varnish or oil? Check the archives of this site for some spirited discussions. I went with Semco teak finish, which is something inbetween oil and cetol. It went on like stain, and the finish looked new for about two or three months before it began to deteriorate (about half as long as I hoped/was promised). There is also a product called Bristol Finish which supposedly looks like a beautiful varnish, but lasts longer and is much easier to maintain. I got some product information on it once, and was immediately turned off by the price. Maybe it would be worth it to you.
Getting the handrails off can be a pain. You will have to drill out the bungs covering the screws. Hopefully, you have easy access to the nuts through the cabin ceiling and the little monsters won't be rusted solid. I refinished my handrails while they were in place. If you go that route, I strongly recommend buying the masking tape strips shaped to cover around the bottoms of the rails. They are worth it. As to why some people suggest stripping instead of sanding: sanding teak is a tricky thing. Because it is so oily, the dust tends to clog the grain instead of blowing away. This clogging prevents good adhesion of whatever coating you are applying. Sanding teak is also a little too easy. You can easily wind up sanding away too much. Do not ask me how I know this. Cetol or varnish or oil? Check the archives of this site for some spirited discussions. I went with Semco teak finish, which is something inbetween oil and cetol. It went on like stain, and the finish looked new for about two or three months before it began to deteriorate (about half as long as I hoped/was promised). There is also a product called Bristol Finish which supposedly looks like a beautiful varnish, but lasts longer and is much easier to maintain. I got some product information on it once, and was immediately turned off by the price. Maybe it would be worth it to you.
Easy bung/plug removal
A trick that was passed to me from Hunter customer service was to use an appropiate-sized wood screw and an electric screwdriver to remove wood plugs. Simply drive the screw into the plug and when it hits the under-lying screw it will force the plug out. On 6 interior plugs I needed to remove it worked perfectly removing all of the plug. 1-2 plugs were left in broken pieces that I picked out. I don't know how well the technique would work with exterior plugs or with plugs that are glued in place.
A trick that was passed to me from Hunter customer service was to use an appropiate-sized wood screw and an electric screwdriver to remove wood plugs. Simply drive the screw into the plug and when it hits the under-lying screw it will force the plug out. On 6 interior plugs I needed to remove it worked perfectly removing all of the plug. 1-2 plugs were left in broken pieces that I picked out. I don't know how well the technique would work with exterior plugs or with plugs that are glued in place.
Easy bung/plug removal
A trick that was passed to me from Hunter customer service was to use an appropiate-sized wood screw and an electric screwdriver to remove wood plugs. Simply drive the screw into the plug and when it hits the under-lying screw it will force the plug out. On 6 interior plugs I needed to remove it worked perfectly removing all of the plug. 1-2 plugs were left in broken pieces that I picked out. I don't know how well the technique would work with exterior plugs or with plugs that are glued in place.
A trick that was passed to me from Hunter customer service was to use an appropiate-sized wood screw and an electric screwdriver to remove wood plugs. Simply drive the screw into the plug and when it hits the under-lying screw it will force the plug out. On 6 interior plugs I needed to remove it worked perfectly removing all of the plug. 1-2 plugs were left in broken pieces that I picked out. I don't know how well the technique would work with exterior plugs or with plugs that are glued in place.
Sand!
Cetol too! Don't mess with crapy chemicals that get all over the fiberglass. I like the way Cetol look, but I don't see too good!
Cetol too! Don't mess with crapy chemicals that get all over the fiberglass. I like the way Cetol look, but I don't see too good!
Sand!
Cetol too! Don't mess with crapy chemicals that get all over the fiberglass. I like the way Cetol look, but I don't see too good!
Cetol too! Don't mess with crapy chemicals that get all over the fiberglass. I like the way Cetol look, but I don't see too good!
Try using Dalys SeaFin Teak Oil
I have used Cetol on my last boat and it can chip or peal. I found that using Dalys SeaFin Teak Oil is much easier to use & keep up. Teak Oil doesn't build up like Varnish or a Poly Coat, so next time you don't have to strip it or sand as much. I found this product in my Hunter owners manual. After using this product my teak looks like a new boat from the factory. Dalys SeaFin Teak Oil has a nice sheen, unlike the Cetol with the glossy varnished look. If you are interested let me know, I may have Dalys Phone Number. D. Wall
I have used Cetol on my last boat and it can chip or peal. I found that using Dalys SeaFin Teak Oil is much easier to use & keep up. Teak Oil doesn't build up like Varnish or a Poly Coat, so next time you don't have to strip it or sand as much. I found this product in my Hunter owners manual. After using this product my teak looks like a new boat from the factory. Dalys SeaFin Teak Oil has a nice sheen, unlike the Cetol with the glossy varnished look. If you are interested let me know, I may have Dalys Phone Number. D. Wall
Try using Dalys SeaFin Teak Oil
I have used Cetol on my last boat and it can chip or peal. I found that using Dalys SeaFin Teak Oil is much easier to use & keep up. Teak Oil doesn't build up like Varnish or a Poly Coat, so next time you don't have to strip it or sand as much. I found this product in my Hunter owners manual. After using this product my teak looks like a new boat from the factory. Dalys SeaFin Teak Oil has a nice sheen, unlike the Cetol with the glossy varnished look. If you are interested let me know, I may have Dalys Phone Number. D. Wall
I have used Cetol on my last boat and it can chip or peal. I found that using Dalys SeaFin Teak Oil is much easier to use & keep up. Teak Oil doesn't build up like Varnish or a Poly Coat, so next time you don't have to strip it or sand as much. I found this product in my Hunter owners manual. After using this product my teak looks like a new boat from the factory. Dalys SeaFin Teak Oil has a nice sheen, unlike the Cetol with the glossy varnished look. If you are interested let me know, I may have Dalys Phone Number. D. Wall
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