Is it a mistake to treat my wood covered benches with teak oil? The wood is new and has never had anything on it. I don't think I want to go the varnish route.
Teak oil?
- Thread starter SteveInMD
- Start date
Teak oil is fine and makes your teak look great without losing any of that shoe-gripping friction power! I use a natural bristle chip brush to carefully paint it on, give it a few minutes to sink in, and then wipe it off with a lint-free cloth. When your teak ages and picks up dirt, give it a cleanup before oiling. I use this stuff, mild but effective. Rinse well, dry and apply the oil. Good luck!
What ever you do don't varnish them. The previous owner varnished mine, it makes them very slippery and it becomes an other maintenance project. Down here in southwest Florida the varnish lasts for about 4 months before it needs re-coating. I tried to strip off all the old varnish and you can not get it all off so in my experience once you start with varnish on the teak seats you will forever be maintaining it. All I can say it don't even think of varnishing them, unless you like to varnish and are good at it or want to pay someone. Me, I hate painting and varnishing plus I suck at both.
I have been using Semco for the last several years and am happy with the product and performance. Use 2 part cleaner/bleach, let it dry then brush the Semco on, wiping the caulk stripes clean before it dries. Wipe any excess off. Doesn't seem to build up as much as teak oil. Cleaning is easier.
It does bleed a little after.
I do varnish the companionway doors, but they are easily removable for sanding and recoating.
It does bleed a little after.
I do varnish the companionway doors, but they are easily removable for sanding and recoating.
We also use Semco. However, the tint in Semco did built up for us, so we switched to the clear Semco.
Teak oil on gel coat comes off very easily with those Mr. Clean magic sponges. So do gray drip stains. They are fabulous on stainless tubing.
The Magic eraser is equivalent to approximately 1500 grit sandpaper. There's no magic about em. You're wet sanding the stain away. Just be careful when you use them on gel coat. They have their place but one has to be aware of their abrasive properties and not use them everywhere all the time.
I used teak oil on my previous boat, and was very happy with it on the Great Lakes, and used to recoat about every 6 months.
Now that I am in Naples, I wonder if there is a down side to teak oil, versus just leaving my teak natural, as it is now. A local marine wood refinisher told me that teak oil doesn't work well in the Florida environment, something about it absorbs or traps the moisture.
Any thoughts?
Now that I am in Naples, I wonder if there is a down side to teak oil, versus just leaving my teak natural, as it is now. A local marine wood refinisher told me that teak oil doesn't work well in the Florida environment, something about it absorbs or traps the moisture.
Any thoughts?
some teak oils have more polymers in them than others ...depending what you want in a finish ...i do know that watco has a heavy amount of polymers and makes a nice finish inside the cabin but not sure for the outside just yet
just donot use fresh water on teak. fresh water dries out teak and causes rot. use sea water on it. then oil. does not need soap, just sea water. be good to your beautiful wood.
watco was good stuff, unavailable in mexico. it is an oil finish which crusts and appears similar to varnish, used just before cane season in tropical areas, will keep water out for a good season. only takes 6 hours for a formosa to be prepped for this treatment. unless your hands are similar to mine, in which case it takes me 10 hours. omygods i am gonna die from this shite as it is interfering with my sailing time ha ha ha ha ha
might as well make it fun, as no one listens to my words anyway. but ye can watch and remember them later when shite happens and ye wonder why your beautiful teak aint so no mas.....
watco was good stuff, unavailable in mexico. it is an oil finish which crusts and appears similar to varnish, used just before cane season in tropical areas, will keep water out for a good season. only takes 6 hours for a formosa to be prepped for this treatment. unless your hands are similar to mine, in which case it takes me 10 hours. omygods i am gonna die from this shite as it is interfering with my sailing time ha ha ha ha ha
might as well make it fun, as no one listens to my words anyway. but ye can watch and remember them later when shite happens and ye wonder why your beautiful teak aint so no mas.....
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Here is a good question....I think we fouled up....the boat is in the water, but the teak toe rails need help.
They had Watco teak oil on them last year but they need to be done again...unfortunately, the boat is in the water and I'm afraid what ever we use on the teak toe rails will cause streaks on the hull which we have
waxed...I should learn to learn from the past....any ideas other than serious taping and teak cleaner....
They had Watco teak oil on them last year but they need to be done again...unfortunately, the boat is in the water and I'm afraid what ever we use on the teak toe rails will cause streaks on the hull which we have
waxed...I should learn to learn from the past....any ideas other than serious taping and teak cleaner....
sea water and oil finish. just be careful where the drips go and grab em before they make a coating.
btdt with this , now , for many years, yet no one pays attention. i do ALL my teak care in water. no reason not to.
btdt with this , now , for many years, yet no one pays attention. i do ALL my teak care in water. no reason not to.