We would like to remove and restore the teak trim on the outside of our Hunter 25. Does anyone know how the hand rails along the top of the cabin are attached? Can we remove them without damaging them?
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Yes and yes.
Well at least I think yours are the same as mine. If you look closely you should see "bungs", small plugs glued in the screw holes. Use a drill bit slightly smaller, an awl to get a center start, and be careful. Drill straight down to the screw head and the plug should come out easily. Now you can unscrew the handrails. Most will recommend that you use an epoxy mix to fill the holes before reattaching. The little bungs are available in the right size from WM, BoatUS, etc.
Well at least I think yours are the same as mine. If you look closely you should see "bungs", small plugs glued in the screw holes. Use a drill bit slightly smaller, an awl to get a center start, and be careful. Drill straight down to the screw head and the plug should come out easily. Now you can unscrew the handrails. Most will recommend that you use an epoxy mix to fill the holes before reattaching. The little bungs are available in the right size from WM, BoatUS, etc.
Don't drill
IT'S EASIER TO REMOVE THE PLUGS BY TAPPING A SMALL FLAT SCREWDRIVER TIP INTO THE TEAK PLUG GOING IN THE SAME DIRECTION AS THE GRAIN. THEY SPLIT EASILY AND COME RIGHT OUT. tHEN UNSCREW THE RAILS. YOU MIGHT HAVE TO REPLACE THE SCREWS IF THEY BURR. DON'T FORGET TO REBED THE RAILS USING WHITE MARINE GRADE SILICONE TO PREVENT WATER FROM ENTERING THE CABIN TOP. IT TAKES TWO PEOPLE TO REINSTALL IF YOU WANT TO DO IT NEATLY AND QUICKLY. GOOD LUCK, JOE.
IT'S EASIER TO REMOVE THE PLUGS BY TAPPING A SMALL FLAT SCREWDRIVER TIP INTO THE TEAK PLUG GOING IN THE SAME DIRECTION AS THE GRAIN. THEY SPLIT EASILY AND COME RIGHT OUT. tHEN UNSCREW THE RAILS. YOU MIGHT HAVE TO REPLACE THE SCREWS IF THEY BURR. DON'T FORGET TO REBED THE RAILS USING WHITE MARINE GRADE SILICONE TO PREVENT WATER FROM ENTERING THE CABIN TOP. IT TAKES TWO PEOPLE TO REINSTALL IF YOU WANT TO DO IT NEATLY AND QUICKLY. GOOD LUCK, JOE.
hints on removal
Before you try to remove the plugs, sand off the varnish. If not, it will sometimes chip the teak back from the hole in the handrail. It's sort of like being able to removing the glue first. And, I've heard the suggestion of using epoxy before. I don't use it, and I think you'd have a real tough time removing the plugs again if you had to. They didn't epoxy them in the first time, I don't see why you should now. The varnish will hold them just fine. As to plugs - you can buy a plug cutter at Home Depot, any woodworking shop or other places, cost about $5 to $10, and cut all you want out of a scrap of teak. It'll pay for itself on the first job over th inflated prices West and others get for them.
Before you try to remove the plugs, sand off the varnish. If not, it will sometimes chip the teak back from the hole in the handrail. It's sort of like being able to removing the glue first. And, I've heard the suggestion of using epoxy before. I don't use it, and I think you'd have a real tough time removing the plugs again if you had to. They didn't epoxy them in the first time, I don't see why you should now. The varnish will hold them just fine. As to plugs - you can buy a plug cutter at Home Depot, any woodworking shop or other places, cost about $5 to $10, and cut all you want out of a scrap of teak. It'll pay for itself on the first job over th inflated prices West and others get for them.
1974 25
I think mine were screwed from below. If yours is the same the screw heads are visible from inside. Be careful not to strip out the heads as they are soft brass. On the 74 model the teak wasn't really a hand rail. It was solid with no place to get a grip, more of a place to brace your foot. I didn't put them back on after I finished redoing the non-skid.
I think mine were screwed from below. If yours is the same the screw heads are visible from inside. Be careful not to strip out the heads as they are soft brass. On the 74 model the teak wasn't really a hand rail. It was solid with no place to get a grip, more of a place to brace your foot. I didn't put them back on after I finished redoing the non-skid.
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