Teak Flooring

Status
Not open for further replies.

LarryH

.
May 5, 2010
38
Hunter 260 Palm Beach County
I want to replace the teak flooring on my 1999 H260. i have pulled it and I am contempleting having the area gel coated by a pro to get rid of that Squishy feel of the old laminate teak.

Also, what is the bolt under the flooring ?

Lastly,,,I assume the water ballast is under the flooring...has anyone attempted to put a bilge pump there as it is lowest point of the hull? I have small amounts of water under the seat compartments and sink...the bilge under the berth in the stern never kicks on because the water never reaches it. I d love to figure out a method to rid that water.


Thanks

Larry
 
Feb 5, 2009
92
2 216 lake murry, South Carolina
I have the same problem on my 1997 H26. I called Hunter yesterday and the replacement cost would be around $450.00 for new flooring. I am going to Lowe's later to see what tongue and groove I can get to fit. I estimate it will cost appoximately $50 for everything.
 
Jun 14, 2004
19
Hunter 26 San Luis del Norte
I've gotten tired of replacing the teak laminate. We had high water and rains last summer. Ended up with standing water in the cabin and no way to get to the boat for several weeks, so my cabin sole got trashed.

Any hints on a wood-like plastic material? Or maybe a textured plastic tile?

I'd like something that can stand up to the aftermath of a midwest horizontal rainstorm.
 
Sep 25, 2008
15
First, the old flooring was actual teak and holly sole which rotted if not treated when rain water got in. This is going to be lengthy so read gents.

When removing the teak and holly sole, it is usually glued down and you need to clean all the old glue and any sealant you see. I would suggest ordering from Hunter as they have the floor plan as they now use the marine laminente which is basically a plastic material that no maintenance is required. When installing, you will need to trowel the glue all over and then put a cloth cover over it and place weights down to adhere to the glues. Let it dry overnight. Then you will need to put a bead of silicon around the perimeter to seal the edges of the floor. If you find any bolts or screws underneath, then something is amiss as that is a solid glass floor acting as the top plate of the water ballast tank.

If rain water is coming in around the top sliding hatch, then you will need to remove the hatch and take out the lexan. This is a two man job and do not attempt to do this on your own. There is a board on the top at the back that goes across. Take it off and clean off the old caulk. Replace with a new bead of caulk across the entire bottom and screw holes. Then do the other two boards the same way. Then put it back on. Do not pressure wash even with a hose as water can get underneath the hatch into the cabin floor. I would suggest that you get a cover that goes over the hatch to cover that and make sure you put a cushion under it or on top of the lexan slider to angle the water off. You can order this thru this website.

Water under the cabinetes can be from anywhere. If you take the boat out and drain the tank, then put alot of red cool aid mix down into the tank and then put the boat back into the water. If the water is red, then you have a tank lid leak.
If the water is not red, then it is coming from topsides. That can be a dilly to find. The easy way is to close the boat and put tape over the forward hatch where it comes down, close the opening ports well and then tape a large plastic piece over the entire companion way. Then slit it big enough for a leaf blower and insert the leaf blower and tape that off. make sure you have a bucket of soapy water and brush. Turn the blower on and in essence you are pressuring the cabin. Then brush every fitting, hull to deck joint and so forth and where there are air bubbles, there are your leaks. Good hunting on the leaks

Crazy Dave condon
 
Status
Not open for further replies.