Teak floor in cabin

pelagicasd · Feb 8, 2007

No experiernce with it but it sure would like nice! I'd use really thin
boards and glue them down with an adhesive ratred for teak. Walt

wxt8981 · Feb 8, 2007

Hi.:
I have no experience with a Teak floor; I use a carpet,
it's easy to clean- and when it does get dirty, I get me a
new one. Besides, I'm most of the time bare-foot, a carpet
feels better then wood.
Wilhelm, V-257

pelagicasd · Feb 8, 2007

Yeah Wilhelm, it does make sense. I remember when I lived aboard. I'd go to
a carpet store and tell the salesman I wanted to do my home in wall to wall
carpeting. He'd rub his greedy little hands and say "how many yards sir".
I'd answer 8 feet by 2 feet, I'll cut it to fit. Walt, Lyric

rchrdcoe · Feb 9, 2007

I remember reading an article about doing teak , I think it was in
Good Old Boat. I did a sole on a Tartan 27.Made a pattern and
epoxyied it down. Did not have any curved surfaces however. That is
the trickey part. The mag. article addressed that problem, however.
Richard V1812.

wxt8981 · Feb 9, 2007

Hi Walt,
that's exactly what I do; I go to Home Depot, get a 12 by 2
foot piece of carpet and cut it to fit. Costs me between 10
and 15 bugs. I can see a hardwood floor on a 40 footer with
a big main cabin, but not on a Vega.
I just finished painting and varnishing my Vega, looks good
again, and I also just put in a new carpet.
Wilhelm, V-257

trevy_kins · Feb 9, 2007

Wilhelm, did you paint the topsides and the deck, or down below? And,
where did you use varnish if you don't mind me asking? There doesn't
appear to be any varnish on my Vega, except the tiller and perhaps the
grab rails at one time. Thanks,
Trev V-2915

________________________________

From: AlbinVega@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AlbinVega@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of WL
Sent: February 9, 2007 10:03 AM
To: AlbinVega@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AlbinVega] Teak floor in cabin
Hi Walt,
that's exactly what I do; I go to Home Depot, get a 12 by 2
foot piece of carpet and cut it to fit. Costs me between 10
and 15 bugs. I can see a hardwood floor on a 40 footer with
a big main cabin, but not on a Vega.
I just finished painting and varnishing my Vega, looks good
again, and I also just put in a new carpet.
Wilhelm, V-257

wxt8981 · Feb 9, 2007

Hi Trevor.
I painted the whole boat: bottom anti-fauling paint (Pettit
Trinidad [blue]), Deck Interlux Brightside (Bristol Beige),
Deck anti-skip (gray), there is a LOT of interior varnish.
This time I didn't paint the hull out-sides- I did that 2
years ago.
About the varnish: there should be a LOT of surface:
entrance steps, starboard sink + cabinetts, port side
burner + cabinetts, both bunks, campanionway, lockers. I
used more than a 1 pint. I can send you some pics.
Wilhelm, V-257

trevy_kins · Feb 9, 2007

Wilhelm, that sounds like a super paint job. Would love to see pics (of
topsides too) if not too much trouble. Can you post them to the group?
If not you could certainly send them to me offline. My interior woodwork
seems to have someting less than varnish on it (maybe cetol) - not as
shiny as varnish. Quite old and dull, in fact. Wonder if I can just
varnish over it all? Cheers, Trev V-2915

________________________________

From: AlbinVega@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AlbinVega@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of WL
Sent: February 9, 2007 11:24 AM
To: AlbinVega@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AlbinVega] Teak floor in cabin
Hi Trevor.
I painted the whole boat: bottom anti-fauling paint (Pettit
Trinidad [blue]), Deck Interlux Brightside (Bristol Beige),
Deck anti-skip (gray), there is a LOT of interior varnish.
This time I didn't paint the hull out-sides- I did that 2
years ago.
About the varnish: there should be a LOT of surface:
entrance steps, starboard sink + cabinetts, port side
burner + cabinetts, both bunks, campanionway, lockers. I
used more than a 1 pint. I can send you some pics.
Wilhelm, V-257

vegatern · Feb 9, 2007

Trevor, What you may have on your interior woodwork is lemon oil.
Lemon oil is easier to maintain than varnish and less toxic than
Watco and some other wood oils. Smells nice too. Should be able to
find it at a good old hardware store. It is an oil though so it won't
build a finish. Cetol is a "long oil" varnish in that it contains
more oils than a bar top or furniture varnish and remains flexible
after drying. Spar and marine varnishes are also of the long oil
type. My experience with Cetol is that it builds a nice finish that
lasts better than other varnishes, but like varnish can be a project
to maintain. I am using Cetol on the small amount of varnish work
above deck and lemon oil below deck. (With the exception of the engine
cover/step just inside the hatch, which takes too much abuse for an
oil finish) It is the system the previous owner used and works well.
By the way, Cetol makes a clear (actually amber) and a light oak.
Because it is the yellow tint of the varnish that blocks ultraviolet
light, a coat of "light oak" followed by a couple of coats of clear
protects better than just the clear. oops, didn't mean to write so
much. Craig

vegatern · Feb 10, 2007

I realized that I should add a warning to my previous post. It
would be a mistake to use a furniture polish on the boat. Some
polishes,( "Pledge" in particular) contain silicone, which can not be
removed after applying, and will make the surface impossible to
varnish or oil later. The lemon oil I get is from West Marine.
Craig

dk8521 · Feb 11, 2007

I had to refinish the interior of my albin 82MS . the woodwork finish
is the same as for the vega. It was flaking off and faded out in some
places. I didn't want to strip the whole interior so I used a random
orbital sander to smooth the surface. next I applied a stain to match
the existing color. for a finish I used 2 coats of interlux rubbed
effect varnish. the results were very good. considering I avoided
stripping to bare wood I am very happy with the results.
Dick
1978 Albin 82MS "Lyra II"

trevy_kins · Feb 13, 2007

Craig, thanks for the lemon oil tip. I'm all for low maintenance. I'll
try it on an inconspicuous place first and see how the veneer likes it,
then go from there. Cheers, Trev V-2915
________________________________

From: AlbinVega@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AlbinVega@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of vegatern
Sent: February 9, 2007 11:04 PM
To: AlbinVega@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AlbinVega] Re: Teak floor in cabin
Trevor, What you may have on your interior woodwork is lemon oil.
Lemon oil is easier to maintain than varnish and less toxic than
Watco and some other wood oils. Smells nice too. Should be able to
find it at a good old hardware store. It is an oil though so it won't
build a finish. Cetol is a "long oil" varnish in that it contains
more oils than a bar top or furniture varnish and remains flexible
after drying. Spar and marine varnishes are also of the long oil
type. My experience with Cetol is that it builds a nice finish that
lasts better than other varnishes, but like varnish can be a project
to maintain. I am using Cetol on the small amount of varnish work
above deck and lemon oil below deck. (With the exception of the engine
cover/step just inside the hatch, which takes too much abuse for an
oil finish) It is the system the previous owner used and works well.
By the way, Cetol makes a clear (actually amber) and a light oak.
Because it is the yellow tint of the varnish that blocks ultraviolet
light, a coat of "light oak" followed by a couple of coats of clear
protects better than just the clear. oops, didn't mean to write so
much. Craig