Teak eyebrow mounting

Jun 2, 2014
12
catalina 28 Lake City
I removed and refinished the teak eyebrows. My question relates to how to seal them when I remount. And, yes I have considered leaving them off but my wife considers them an integral part of the boat.

I have been told to use caulk but also some recommend a caulking tape. I would prefer to use a material that would permit future removal for refinishing.
 
Apr 29, 2012
67
Catalina 30 TRBS Lake City Marina
The teak eyebrows are for decoration, they don't seal anything so you could use a little caulk on each screw hole and tighten up the screws and you are good to go. They would be easy to remove with this method and would seal the holes for mounting.
 

RichH

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Feb 14, 2005
4,773
Tayana 37 cutter; I20/M20 SCOWS Worton Creek, MD
Caulk them .... or you'll be re-finishing them MUCH sooner than if you dont. Hint: the water that gets trapped will permeate 'through' the wood and will deposit between any coating and the wood ---- causing 'those black stain discolorations' on teak, etc.
 
Jul 23, 2013
487
1981 Catalina 22 #10330 Bayview, ID
If you caulk them, just don't use 5200 or when you do want to remove them again, you could damage the gelcoat getting them off.



That's what I encountered removing the weatherboard on my companionway hatch. Butyl tape rocks.

Visit my blog for the full story on my exterior teak restoration project.

 
Jun 16, 2014
18
Catalina 25 Muskegon Michigan
I removed and refinished the teak eyebrows.
How did you remove them? Mine seem to be attached with some sort of rubber sealant. It's tougher than silicone. ..couldn't cut it with my knife, But still rubbery feel to it, not like a hard glue. Tried to drive a putty knife through it and had a little success untilthe plastic handle broke so i gave up for the time being. I have one of those vibrating cutting tools i have thought about using but the weather and being sick have prevented me from trying.
 
Jun 2, 2014
12
catalina 28 Lake City
I removed the existing caulking compound with a stripping compound that I bought at Mennards. It was recommended by a local bot repairman. I don't have the name as the container is in winter storage. However, it was an environmental "friendly" solution that did not harm the surface of the boat.
 
Jun 16, 2014
18
Catalina 25 Muskegon Michigan
Well...I'm beginning to think my weatherboard is glued on with 5200 and then a bead of caulk around it. I tried to use the vibratool with the plunge cut blade But not a lot of luck. Damaged the fiberglass a little and I'm sure the back of weatherboard is also a bit damaged. Only got about 1/4 of the way across. The eyebrows I think are going to stay on and I'll just refinish those in place. Going to finish getting the weatherboard off in one piece and patch up the fiberglass. Think I'll try a different blade.
 
Feb 8, 2014
1,300
Columbia 36 Muskegon
The idea of putting a dab of sealant just on the screws is fine for protecting the fiberglass from water intrusion, bit you'll be better off caulking the entire bearing surface. I've had spots on boats where water was able to get behind things, and it's frustrating as hell when you hose down the deck and black crud keeps weeping out of the cracks.
On non-critical things like this I've been using polyurethane caulk from Home Depot or Lowes. Looks, smells, and acts like 3M 4200 but it's only $3.00 for a 10 oz tube. Near or below the water line I use the real "marine" stuff.