TDS 440 is a good teak deck caulk, I highly recommend it but there is a high 'learning curve'. ,
1. The teak must be *absolutely* dry ... and especially at the butt ends of the strakes where moisture may have followed the grain well into the wood - applies to all deck caulks. For problem areas and when totally frustrated with the bonding, I 'tent' the problem area with plastic and shove desiccant under the 'tent' to accelerate the dry- out --- a gallon of freshly regenerated Silica Gel per butt end seems to bring the moisture to low % after a day of 'tenting'; of course I start with no visible moisture.
For 'real' wetness problem areas, I desiccate, brush on penetrating epoxy, etc.; when in doubt, dry and epoxy or youll be redoing sections of seams again in a few weeks.
2. Shelf life is very short once you open the tube ... I feel 3-4 days is max. Also be sure to check the manufacturing date as it only lasts about 1 yr. from the date of manufacture.-
3. TDS has a high learning curve and its better to use 'thick' masking tape when caulking for a 'proud-er' fill of the grooves as it tends to 'shrink' a bit more than 2-part caulks. I prefer TDS to 2 part caulks ... less 'rework' on failed seam bonds. DO use a 'bond breaker' in the bottom of the groove; I use 1/4" 3M Fineline tape. Keep your caulking knife clean and 'wet' and slick and at a low angle so you get some 'rebound' to make the seam 'proud'. Dont pull the tape for several days (or more) after application.
4. As far as 2 part caulks that will work ..... probably hasnt been invented yet.
5. FWIW I usually run a 'laminate trimmer' (on a seam following 'jig') with a flat 'bit' along in the groove to clean up the sides of the strakes for better adhesion... just to remove a 'few thousandths' of an inch of 'old' wood. For 'small' repairs, I hand sand the sides of the grooves.
hope this helps