teak cleat measurments, teak glue

lastgaspid · Mar 11, 2003

Rob, I have used 3/4" T&G white oak pieces for the "seats" and can tell you that even with the strongest glue the wooden joints are unstable. I would suggest doweling them together in addition to gluing them. Another solution I have heard of but have not tried is to "backsupport" the teak strips with a complete backing of marine plywood cut to match the hole in the Lazerettes. This gives utmost support and it is decorative from the outside.

Dave
V3233

frank_lighthouse · Mar 11, 2003

Rob'

The old teak dowels on Alkira are 250mm or a shade under 10 inches which ever you prefer.

Personally I would use the West System. In my experience, done correctly the bond achieved is stronger than the wood.

Regards,

Frank Fowler, Alkira of Mersea, Liverpool.

vega1860 · Mar 11, 2003

Aloha Rob,

I seem to be having a problem with my email - my replies don't seem
to be going through. Third try here, this time posting directly to
the group instead of replying through my email.

Anyway, On your hatch covers: I made new ones from 1/2" marine
plywood. I laminated 1/4" X 6" teak boards on the top with West
Systems epoxy. The 3/4" thick hatches stand proud about 1/4" so I
bullnosed the edges with a router. I finished them with Sikkens
Cetol Marine. After six coats of Cetol, Laura laid a pattern out
with 1" masking tape and applied a coat of Cetol. Then she applied
a good heavy coating of Awlgrip polymer non-skid beads to the wet
Cetol and allowed 24 hours for it to set up. After the Cetol was
completely dry she brushed off the excess beads and laid on a
sealing coat over the non-skid. After the masking tape was removed,
a final coat of Cetol Marine was applied over all. Strong, beautiful
and safe.

Oh and on the possible Chesapeake Bay Rendezvous, Laura and I have
attended threee of these events now without our boat and have yet to
have a problem finding lodging. If it happens, and if it is at all
possible, we will come to the Chesapeake Rendezvous too.

"Fair Winds"

Chuck

bbach1949 · Mar 11, 2003

Hi: I have a good bit of experience gluing teak, and can recommend that you
clean the pieces several times with acetone or lacquer thinner to remove the
waxy oil from the surface. When the rags you are using are free of brown
stains from the wood, that should be clean enough. Then almost immediately
thoroughly wet out the gluing faces with unthickened epoxy (West is good as
are others). If there is the chance of any gaps, thicken the rest of the
epoxy mix with microfibers, apply to the joint, and clamp with minimal
pressure. (A tongue and groove or other routed glue joint increases the
surface area to be glued and assures alignment of the pieces - well worth the
effort.) Keep an eye out for any glue starvation. Weathered teak glues
better than new teak, but I've had good luck with both. Use battens screwed
to the back of your seats, leaving all screw holes oval to allow wood
movement. Otherwise your seats will crown up in wet weather (winter here in
the NW). Good luck. I also clean teak with acetone or lacquer thinner
before applying any finish, including Cetol. Bill Bach, V 1071

teak cleat measurments, teak glue

Rob Cheshire

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lastgaspid

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frank_lighthouse

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vega1860

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bbach1949

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