Teak cleaning - Sanding vs what?

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Nichole

The teak on my rail seats and hatch has turned dark, I guess as it naturally does. Aside from sanding and ultimately wearing away the wood, what can be done to bring back that original wood look each year?
 
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Dan Ulrich

Take a look!

Nichole, click on the related link below. You will finf the answers to many of your Teak questions.
 
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Scott

teak care

Last year we broke down and took the stern rail seats off, took each slat off, sanded it to bare wood and varnished with 7 coats of high quality varnish. They looked great. If the new owner touches them up each year they will stay that way for years... There's not much teak on a 34o or any newer hunter for that matter. So Just do it.... Scott
 
Dec 2, 1999
15,184
Hunter Vision-36 Rio Vista, CA.
You really have to sand them at least once!

Nichole: You really need to take them off at least once and get them sanded as smooth as possible. Then use Cetol (3 to 5 coats) use the Cetol Lite and then the clear coat. Then you can order covers and/or pads. Leave these on whenever they are not in use. You will only need to apply a coat of cetol once every 2-3 years (if you keep them covered and apply it properly).
 
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Peggie Hall/Head Mistress

First, you have to clean the teak...

And remove all the mold (which is what turns it black). That's done with a good teak cleaner, a SOFT brush (never use a stiff bristle brush...NEVERNEVER use a wire brush!), and a lot of elbow grease. Scrub with the grain, not against. Then bleach it...bleach not only lightens the wood, but it kills the mold spores. You can use a two-step teak cleaner--the second step kills the spores and lightened the wood... Let the wood get completely dry before doing anything else. Second, sand it as smooth as a baby's bottom. Now comes the debate--whether to varnish, oil, or seal with Cetol or Armada. When teak is kept clean (salt water and a brush should all you need once you've gotten it clean again, it weathers to a beautiful silver gray that many "old salts" prefer. However, you do have to stay after it to keep it clean...otherwise, it gets black again, requiring harsh chemicals that damage the wood to get rid of the black. Oil is cheap and easy to apply, but it's a never-ending job--oil washes off very easily...so the wood always either needs oil, or is so fresh that it stains everything that touches it. You have to stay after it or the wood turns black again. Varnish is the most durable, but it requires a lot more preparation than oil...and it's not a "do it once and forget about it" solution...it has to be sanded and a new coat or two applied every year. Let it go till it cracks and peels and you'll have a job that's 5x as hard as doing it the first time. Plus, there's an art to applying the multiple coats needed without any bubbles and bumps in it that few boat owners ever master. Cetol (or Armada--they're virtually identical products) is the compromise of choice for most boat owners. It requires as much prep as varnish, but is much easier to apply and MUCH easier to maintain...a light sanding each year, followed by a new coat, and you're done for the year. Those are your choices. No matter what you decide, the MOST important thing is: start with clean, dry, smooth teak.
 
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