Having just purchased my C-27, I'm now deciding what to do with the exterior teak (hatchboards, handrails, etc.), and I'm looking for suggestions. Should it be oiled, sealed, varnished, etc.? Right now, the teak is in very good condition, with some sort of oiled finish (don't know what was used). I'd appreciate any recommendations as far as products, methods, etc. Thanks, Randy
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It depends
If you like the oiled look go with it. Chances are it is standard teak oil but you may want to find out from the previous owner. Personally, I've had bad luck with varnish. Up here in Michigan it seems to peel over the winter now matter how much attention I give it. On my Cat 30 I've been using Sikkens Cetol and have just loved the results! Its the easiest finish I've ever applied and it seems to last multiple seasons with simple yearly overcoats. You may find other varnish purists who don't like it because of the "orange tint" it puts on the wood but I really like the color and the finish!
If you like the oiled look go with it. Chances are it is standard teak oil but you may want to find out from the previous owner. Personally, I've had bad luck with varnish. Up here in Michigan it seems to peel over the winter now matter how much attention I give it. On my Cat 30 I've been using Sikkens Cetol and have just loved the results! Its the easiest finish I've ever applied and it seems to last multiple seasons with simple yearly overcoats. You may find other varnish purists who don't like it because of the "orange tint" it puts on the wood but I really like the color and the finish!
Opinions
Ask ten different sailors their opinions on this & you'll get eleven different answers! I love the look of varnish and would NEVER use Cetol. If I was going to get "lazy" I'd use one of the other products out there that look much nicer than Cetol. Aramada has a much more natural color and West Marine carries WoodPro which is apparently similar to Armada's color. I stronly suggest you go look at different finishes to compare for yourself before you commit. There are many different products out there. It depends on where you live, quite honestly. I live in Oregon so I'm able to keep up my varnish quite easily - and besides that, I actually enjoy doing it! (And NO, I won't come do yours!
) I use a high quality gloss varnish. But there's another option I would look at carefully. At www.rotdoctor.com, you'll find a product that's basically an epoxy sealer you apply before applying varnish. It allows you to use less varnish & do it less frequently. Essentially, you get the look of varnish with the ease of maintenance of Cetol (althought the intial applications are a little time consuming and potentially complicated). You'll find that oils are basically useless after a couple months (if that), especially on the exterior. You have to constantly apply them otherwise it just washes off from rain. And here's another opinion for you - don't even look at a product similar to Deks Olje (pronounced "decks ol-ya"). What an enormous pain in the a**! But that's just me. ;-) If you want the definitive book on wood finishing, get Rebecca Wittman's "Brightwork". It may look like a coffee table book (it's only downfall), but it's really the most valuable brightwork book I've ever seen. It's held in high regard in within it's industry as well. Good luck & use rubber gloves! LaDonna
Ask ten different sailors their opinions on this & you'll get eleven different answers! I love the look of varnish and would NEVER use Cetol. If I was going to get "lazy" I'd use one of the other products out there that look much nicer than Cetol. Aramada has a much more natural color and West Marine carries WoodPro which is apparently similar to Armada's color. I stronly suggest you go look at different finishes to compare for yourself before you commit. There are many different products out there. It depends on where you live, quite honestly. I live in Oregon so I'm able to keep up my varnish quite easily - and besides that, I actually enjoy doing it! (And NO, I won't come do yours!
) I use a high quality gloss varnish. But there's another option I would look at carefully. At www.rotdoctor.com, you'll find a product that's basically an epoxy sealer you apply before applying varnish. It allows you to use less varnish & do it less frequently. Essentially, you get the look of varnish with the ease of maintenance of Cetol (althought the intial applications are a little time consuming and potentially complicated). You'll find that oils are basically useless after a couple months (if that), especially on the exterior. You have to constantly apply them otherwise it just washes off from rain. And here's another opinion for you - don't even look at a product similar to Deks Olje (pronounced "decks ol-ya"). What an enormous pain in the a**! But that's just me. ;-) If you want the definitive book on wood finishing, get Rebecca Wittman's "Brightwork". It may look like a coffee table book (it's only downfall), but it's really the most valuable brightwork book I've ever seen. It's held in high regard in within it's industry as well. Good luck & use rubber gloves! LaDonnaDeks Olje
I've had pretty good experience with Deks Olje. There is a #1 and a #2. #1 penetrates (thinner than teak oil) and #2 has a glossy finish. It's not as perfect looking as varnish, but doesn't get dirty like an oil finish, and wears evenly. Teak oil tends to attract dirt. A varnish finish is more work is quite beautiful but, if you're not concientious about keeping it up, when it deteriorates, is a major project to remove. Deks Olje and many of the other alternatives to varnish simply wear away if not maintained. With most, only a light sanding and cleaning is required to prepare for re-finishing.. Practical Sailor published an issue in the last 12 months that evaluated different alternatives to varnish. If you like the varnish look but aren't sure of all the work, I'd reccomend locating that issue, choose a varnish alternative and try it. You can always choose varnish as a last resort if nothing else satisfies you. You may even find you like the traditional look of weathered teak which is a nice, soft gray.
I've had pretty good experience with Deks Olje. There is a #1 and a #2. #1 penetrates (thinner than teak oil) and #2 has a glossy finish. It's not as perfect looking as varnish, but doesn't get dirty like an oil finish, and wears evenly. Teak oil tends to attract dirt. A varnish finish is more work is quite beautiful but, if you're not concientious about keeping it up, when it deteriorates, is a major project to remove. Deks Olje and many of the other alternatives to varnish simply wear away if not maintained. With most, only a light sanding and cleaning is required to prepare for re-finishing.. Practical Sailor published an issue in the last 12 months that evaluated different alternatives to varnish. If you like the varnish look but aren't sure of all the work, I'd reccomend locating that issue, choose a varnish alternative and try it. You can always choose varnish as a last resort if nothing else satisfies you. You may even find you like the traditional look of weathered teak which is a nice, soft gray.
Cetol
I like Cetol it lasts and is easy to apply, I'd rather spend my time sailing not painting!! If you don't like the color they now have Cetol Lite looks a little more like varnish. It's all in what U like..opinions are like elbows everyone has a few.. Mike WD9EOU C-38 #169
I like Cetol it lasts and is easy to apply, I'd rather spend my time sailing not painting!! If you don't like the color they now have Cetol Lite looks a little more like varnish. It's all in what U like..opinions are like elbows everyone has a few..
Mike WD9EOU C-38 #169Cetol
I have used Cetol Marine for the last 7 years on two different boats. I have recieved many copliments. My latest project is to refinish the interior on my Cat 36. The prior owner had done a poor job of one coat of varnish on all of the teak. I am sanding lightly and fininshing with Cetol. Looks great. I have used Cetol on the companionway steps and noted how well it holds up. May have to refinish every third year. I used it on the outside teak floor grate on my hunter 30. This I would recoat every year. Held up nicely. The finish is like a satin varnish. Goes on like oil. Three coats and you are set for a season. The next season you should apply a quick once over. I put three coat on four years ago, and have been bad. Looked pretty good until last year. Then started to chip off. Will not be a big project this year. Will use light sandaper to take off loose finish and reaply. Try it, you'll like it. Chuck Fink
I have used Cetol Marine for the last 7 years on two different boats. I have recieved many copliments. My latest project is to refinish the interior on my Cat 36. The prior owner had done a poor job of one coat of varnish on all of the teak. I am sanding lightly and fininshing with Cetol. Looks great. I have used Cetol on the companionway steps and noted how well it holds up. May have to refinish every third year. I used it on the outside teak floor grate on my hunter 30. This I would recoat every year. Held up nicely. The finish is like a satin varnish. Goes on like oil. Three coats and you are set for a season. The next season you should apply a quick once over. I put three coat on four years ago, and have been bad. Looked pretty good until last year. Then started to chip off. Will not be a big project this year. Will use light sandaper to take off loose finish and reaply. Try it, you'll like it. Chuck Fink
cetol 2
I agree with Chuck, and not just because he's a fellow MYC member. The guy who owned my C30 before me added teak on the coamings and teak toe rails. It looks nice but was a pain to keep varnished. I was distraught to see varnish failing during the second year. The cetol wears like iron. I put on 3-4 coats last year on remaining parts after testing on certain sections for the two previous years.
I agree with Chuck, and not just because he's a fellow MYC member. The guy who owned my C30 before me added teak on the coamings and teak toe rails. It looks nice but was a pain to keep varnished. I was distraught to see varnish failing during the second year. The cetol wears like iron. I put on 3-4 coats last year on remaining parts after testing on certain sections for the two previous years.
Lots of work
Teak is beautiful, but requires lots of work to keep finished. Notice things in life that take alot of work become the pride of their caretakers. Take parents of children for example, everyone believes they have the smartest, cutest, etc. The point here is that whatever type of finish people choose, they endorse. Cause its all alot of work! Here's my suggestion. Go down to your local marina & walk the docks. Find some woodwork that has a finish that appeals to you & ask the owner or a knowledgable sea-person, what the finish is. Then give it a shot!
Teak is beautiful, but requires lots of work to keep finished. Notice things in life that take alot of work become the pride of their caretakers. Take parents of children for example, everyone believes they have the smartest, cutest, etc. The point here is that whatever type of finish people choose, they endorse. Cause its all alot of work! Here's my suggestion. Go down to your local marina & walk the docks. Find some woodwork that has a finish that appeals to you & ask the owner or a knowledgable sea-person, what the finish is. Then give it a shot!
Varnish!
Having tried both, I much prefer varnish. Although it has considerably more labour at the start, it is easy to keep up once done properly. The following comes from advice from a builder of beautiful wooden boats. First remove the wood off the boat! Sand all surfaces to bare, clean teak. Add three coats of clear epoxy sealer, light sanding between coats to all surfaces, including the undersides. Another light sanding then one coat of varnish on all surfaces. Re-bed/replace the wood onto the boat. Immediately build up several coats of varnish with light sanding (200 grit) between coats. Try for 6 coats first season. Then each season give it a light sanding and two recoat of varnish. Epoxy degrades rapidly in sunlight, but sticks well to teak. GOOD varnish resists sunlight, but doesn't stick well to teak. The expoxy on all surfaces prevents moisture from coming underneath the brightwork and causing peeling. Sand only the amount that you can cover the same day. Patch any chips immediately before moisture gets underneath. Highly recommend a book called "Brightwork" for reference. After the initial epoxying and multiple coats of varnish marathon, we now do all the varnish on our C-30 in one day each year, usually while sitting in some lovely cruising spot. The boat gets raced and cruised a lot and the brighwork looks wonderful.
Having tried both, I much prefer varnish. Although it has considerably more labour at the start, it is easy to keep up once done properly. The following comes from advice from a builder of beautiful wooden boats. First remove the wood off the boat! Sand all surfaces to bare, clean teak. Add three coats of clear epoxy sealer, light sanding between coats to all surfaces, including the undersides. Another light sanding then one coat of varnish on all surfaces. Re-bed/replace the wood onto the boat. Immediately build up several coats of varnish with light sanding (200 grit) between coats. Try for 6 coats first season. Then each season give it a light sanding and two recoat of varnish. Epoxy degrades rapidly in sunlight, but sticks well to teak. GOOD varnish resists sunlight, but doesn't stick well to teak. The expoxy on all surfaces prevents moisture from coming underneath the brightwork and causing peeling. Sand only the amount that you can cover the same day. Patch any chips immediately before moisture gets underneath. Highly recommend a book called "Brightwork" for reference. After the initial epoxying and multiple coats of varnish marathon, we now do all the varnish on our C-30 in one day each year, usually while sitting in some lovely cruising spot. The boat gets raced and cruised a lot and the brighwork looks wonderful.
teak
i prefer teak oil. when it comes time to restore the teak that you have negleted and got tired of varnishing then all you have to do is to use hot water with alot of oxycilic acid and scrub the teak, wash off with water, lightly sand and take a brush and apply teak oil till you build up a nic color. then just wash with water , dry and brush on more teak oil. the look of oiled teak can't be beat. unless you like the plastic look over wood. the steps to replace neglected varnished teak will make a believer of oil.
i prefer teak oil. when it comes time to restore the teak that you have negleted and got tired of varnishing then all you have to do is to use hot water with alot of oxycilic acid and scrub the teak, wash off with water, lightly sand and take a brush and apply teak oil till you build up a nic color. then just wash with water , dry and brush on more teak oil. the look of oiled teak can't be beat. unless you like the plastic look over wood. the steps to replace neglected varnished teak will make a believer of oil.
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