Hi, Peggie, Well, as I wrote before, we pulled the aluminum tank on the Hunter 430 and tried to order a replacement Ronco plastic tank. That didn't work out, as ronco had no replacement tank that would fit, and would custom make a mold from the old tank and custom fabricate a new tank for an absolutely unaffordable price (and then would have the mold, courtesy of us, to make the same tank for others later). So we're back to ordering an Ezell aluminum tank (unless you have other suggestions) which is twice as thick as the original (1/8" rather than 1/16") and plastic coated inside. (Ezell said that they had argued with Hunter originally that a 1/16" thick tank would not cut it but they said they lost the argument). If that's our only option, is there an AccuGage system (or other) sender that would work reliably in or on this tank. I understand that the external sensors don't work on metal tanks and both the sensors that I've used in the old aluminum tank (Wema and Fireboy Xintex) have failed repeatedly. Sorry to be so long-winded, and thanks as always for your information. George
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Peggie Hall/HeadMistress
Not a good option, nor is it your only option
If you can't find a molded tank that'll fit, the second best option--and the only other good one--is a good quality welded plastic tank. There's a company called Ocean Link that makes welded tanks. I don't have contact info for them, but several people here have bought tanks from them. If no one chimes in with info, try a Google search.
If you can't find a molded tank that'll fit, the second best option--and the only other good one--is a good quality welded plastic tank. There's a company called Ocean Link that makes welded tanks. I don't have contact info for them, but several people here have bought tanks from them. If no one chimes in with info, try a Google search.
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Jim Rushing
Not The Thickness
George, it isn't the thickness of the aluminum that counts. The leak occurs in the area of the welds. If you could take an aluminum tank and after it is completed, completely coat the inside with an epoxy primer, then it should last. I have done this with aircraft fuel tanks. And Snake River does make a sending unit for metal tanks. It is actually a PVC pipe with two metal strips on the sides and the interface unit mounted on the top. Dennis can give you the details at Snake River.
George, it isn't the thickness of the aluminum that counts. The leak occurs in the area of the welds. If you could take an aluminum tank and after it is completed, completely coat the inside with an epoxy primer, then it should last. I have done this with aircraft fuel tanks. And Snake River does make a sending unit for metal tanks. It is actually a PVC pipe with two metal strips on the sides and the interface unit mounted on the top. Dennis can give you the details at Snake River.
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Peggie Hall/HeadMistress
Fuel isn't waste
Many people make the mistake of assuming that, if a tank material is appropriate for fuel or chemicals, it's also appropriate for waste holding. They fail to take into account that fuel and whatever chemicals are held in metal tanks aren't corrosive, while urine is SO corrosive that it makes salt seem benign in comparison. Aluminum fuel and water tanks-coated OR uncoated--typically last for 20 years or more...but a waste holding tank is a different story...metal--aluminum or stainless (even 316), regardless of thickness--rarely lasts more than 10 years. Whether coating extends the life of a metal waste tank is debatable....IP uses coated aluminum waste tanks, but if the folks on the Sailnet IP mail list are any indication, they don't last much longer than uncoated aluminum-- +/- years. Over time the coating--usually epoxy--ages, develops hairline cracks...and it's all downhill from there. Plastic is the ONLY material recommended for waste holding--preferably seamless molded...welded if that's the only way to get one that fits.
Many people make the mistake of assuming that, if a tank material is appropriate for fuel or chemicals, it's also appropriate for waste holding. They fail to take into account that fuel and whatever chemicals are held in metal tanks aren't corrosive, while urine is SO corrosive that it makes salt seem benign in comparison. Aluminum fuel and water tanks-coated OR uncoated--typically last for 20 years or more...but a waste holding tank is a different story...metal--aluminum or stainless (even 316), regardless of thickness--rarely lasts more than 10 years. Whether coating extends the life of a metal waste tank is debatable....IP uses coated aluminum waste tanks, but if the folks on the Sailnet IP mail list are any indication, they don't last much longer than uncoated aluminum-- +/- years. Over time the coating--usually epoxy--ages, develops hairline cracks...and it's all downhill from there. Plastic is the ONLY material recommended for waste holding--preferably seamless molded...welded if that's the only way to get one that fits.
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George Kornreich
Tried Ocean Link and struck out...
I spoke to them and they do not have a tank that will fit, and do not make welded plastic tanks... only molded tanks and no custom jobs. Do you have any other leads? Thanks!
I spoke to them and they do not have a tank that will fit, and do not make welded plastic tanks... only molded tanks and no custom jobs. Do you have any other leads? Thanks!
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Steve Carpman
C.C.Tech
Try C.C.Tech, 401-784-6168, www.gocctech.com. According to another Hunter owner, they do custom tanks, that cost about twice the price of a comparable Ronco tank. If you can get the original tank drawing from Hunter, C.C.Tech can use the drawing to make a duplicate plastice tank. We need to replace the aluminum tank on our Legend 37.5 next spring and intend to order a custom tank from C. C. Tech. Take a look at Brian Leney's post dated 5/23, I think 2003. He had a very favorable experience with C. C. Tech.
Try C.C.Tech, 401-784-6168, www.gocctech.com. According to another Hunter owner, they do custom tanks, that cost about twice the price of a comparable Ronco tank. If you can get the original tank drawing from Hunter, C.C.Tech can use the drawing to make a duplicate plastice tank. We need to replace the aluminum tank on our Legend 37.5 next spring and intend to order a custom tank from C. C. Tech. Take a look at Brian Leney's post dated 5/23, I think 2003. He had a very favorable experience with C. C. Tech.
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Peggie Hall/HeadMistress
George...do a Google for custom plastic tanks.
I thought Ocean Link was the company that others here have used...apparently not. Search the archives (if they're up again yet) or Google for it. I THINK they're in RI...but that could be Ocean Link. They're somewhere in the NE though. I don't suppose it's occurred to you to look for another location for a tank...one that won't require a complete redesign of the system, but one that a stock tank will fit?
I thought Ocean Link was the company that others here have used...apparently not. Search the archives (if they're up again yet) or Google for it. I THINK they're in RI...but that could be Ocean Link. They're somewhere in the NE though. I don't suppose it's occurred to you to look for another location for a tank...one that won't require a complete redesign of the system, but one that a stock tank will fit?
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Chris Burti
Good Gosh, fabrication isn't rocket science!
George, about a boat buck ($100 here in the South) and a weekend's work can make you a happy camper if you are having this much trouble finding a tank and have some basic DIY skills. Remove your tank, use a skill saw with a metal cutting blade and remove the top leaving a 2" flange all around. Use a metal cutting hole saw in your drill to cut out all of the fittings. Using filled epoxy repair resin make a concave fillet at all inside corners with a tongue depressor. Using epoxy laminating resin (never polyester) and fiberglas cloth, fabricate a new tank inside the old one, three layers should be adequate. Be sure to roll the laminated cloth back, over, out and on top of your flange and a little beyond the outside edges of the tank. Fabricate a new top, a little larger than your finished flange, on a flat surface covered with polyethylene sheeting as a mold release. Next day, use a hole saw to cut holes for your fittings. Use the metal tank cutouts as a guide. Epoxy in (or use 3M 5200 unless Peggy objects), from the inside out, new flanged replacement fittings (this is a good time to move up to twin 3/4" vents and relocate for a less obstructed flow if neccessary. Don't cheap out and use the old aluminum fittings). Consider installing an inspection port in the top at this time, there are pros and cons. Trim the edges of the flange to the sides of the tank and the top to match. Then, sand the mating surfaces flat. Using the filled epoxy resin, bond the new top to the tank flange clamp it or weight it down until cured. You can reinstall the 'new' tank when cured. Follow the mixing instructions on the epoxy carefully, a proper mix is critical to a good cure. Pre-impregnate your cloth with the epoxy resin before placing it in the 'mold'. Roll or brush out all air bubbles during the layup but don't starve the cloth of resin. Use protective gloves, eye and respratory protection. If you want to use the Snake River HODA sensors, cut out a large panel on the most accessable side, 1/4" from the top and bottom and 6-8" wide. Cover the panel with polyethylene sheeting and tape it back in place with duct tape. Be careful while rolling out the resin in your laminate in this area, you'll have to hold the panel in place or rig a clamp. After the laminate cures, the metal panel will pop right out and you will have a nice smooth, flat surface to apply the Snake River foil and sending module. Some people advocate using this process to glass in the entire locker where an old tank was located in order to maximize tankage. Personally, I think that this is a very Baaaaaad idea. Good luck and have fun.
George, about a boat buck ($100 here in the South) and a weekend's work can make you a happy camper if you are having this much trouble finding a tank and have some basic DIY skills. Remove your tank, use a skill saw with a metal cutting blade and remove the top leaving a 2" flange all around. Use a metal cutting hole saw in your drill to cut out all of the fittings. Using filled epoxy repair resin make a concave fillet at all inside corners with a tongue depressor. Using epoxy laminating resin (never polyester) and fiberglas cloth, fabricate a new tank inside the old one, three layers should be adequate. Be sure to roll the laminated cloth back, over, out and on top of your flange and a little beyond the outside edges of the tank. Fabricate a new top, a little larger than your finished flange, on a flat surface covered with polyethylene sheeting as a mold release. Next day, use a hole saw to cut holes for your fittings. Use the metal tank cutouts as a guide. Epoxy in (or use 3M 5200 unless Peggy objects), from the inside out, new flanged replacement fittings (this is a good time to move up to twin 3/4" vents and relocate for a less obstructed flow if neccessary. Don't cheap out and use the old aluminum fittings). Consider installing an inspection port in the top at this time, there are pros and cons. Trim the edges of the flange to the sides of the tank and the top to match. Then, sand the mating surfaces flat. Using the filled epoxy resin, bond the new top to the tank flange clamp it or weight it down until cured. You can reinstall the 'new' tank when cured. Follow the mixing instructions on the epoxy carefully, a proper mix is critical to a good cure. Pre-impregnate your cloth with the epoxy resin before placing it in the 'mold'. Roll or brush out all air bubbles during the layup but don't starve the cloth of resin. Use protective gloves, eye and respratory protection. If you want to use the Snake River HODA sensors, cut out a large panel on the most accessable side, 1/4" from the top and bottom and 6-8" wide. Cover the panel with polyethylene sheeting and tape it back in place with duct tape. Be careful while rolling out the resin in your laminate in this area, you'll have to hold the panel in place or rig a clamp. After the laminate cures, the metal panel will pop right out and you will have a nice smooth, flat surface to apply the Snake River foil and sending module. Some people advocate using this process to glass in the entire locker where an old tank was located in order to maximize tankage. Personally, I think that this is a very Baaaaaad idea. Good luck and have fun.
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Peter Milne
430 Holding Tanks
George, I haven't replaced the aluminum holding tanks on our '96 430 yet, but I know it won't be long now. In anticipation of the day, I have talked to a company near Vancouver, BC and they have told me that there will be no problem to build identical poly tanks. The cost approx. $400 CDN or $300US each. The company's co-ordinates are: BARR Plastics Inc. Ph: 1-800-665-4499 E-mail sales@e-barr.com Send me your e-mail address and I will explain for you some issues we have had with our 430's fuel tank. Peter Milne S/V Blue Heron pjmilne@telusplanet.net
George, I haven't replaced the aluminum holding tanks on our '96 430 yet, but I know it won't be long now. In anticipation of the day, I have talked to a company near Vancouver, BC and they have told me that there will be no problem to build identical poly tanks. The cost approx. $400 CDN or $300US each. The company's co-ordinates are: BARR Plastics Inc. Ph: 1-800-665-4499 E-mail sales@e-barr.com Send me your e-mail address and I will explain for you some issues we have had with our 430's fuel tank. Peter Milne S/V Blue Heron pjmilne@telusplanet.net
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Brian Leney
C. C. Tech worked for us
Steve is correct, CC Tech will build you a quality custom tank at a reasonable price. It worked well for us, see discussion from my brief post last week at http://www.sailboatowners.com/forums/rview.tpl?fno=11&foumabr=thm&rid=2003307093841.30 or contact CCTech in Rhode Island http://www.gocctech.com/marine/boat-tank.htm Phone: 401-784-6168 Linda Kleinman for sales. Technical questions ask for Bert.
Steve is correct, CC Tech will build you a quality custom tank at a reasonable price. It worked well for us, see discussion from my brief post last week at http://www.sailboatowners.com/forums/rview.tpl?fno=11&foumabr=thm&rid=2003307093841.30 or contact CCTech in Rhode Island http://www.gocctech.com/marine/boat-tank.htm Phone: 401-784-6168 Linda Kleinman for sales. Technical questions ask for Bert.
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George Kornreich
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