Tank installation questions.

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Ed Schenck

What material would you suggest for "padding" around the new Ronco tank. Only the bottom and one long(34") side will be in contact with the boat. Do I need to worry about chafing? How about under the web straps that will secure the tank? Thanks.
 
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Peggie Hall/Head Mistress

You really don't need any padding

Although some non-skid rubber "shelf paper" (the kind you can buy at Walmart) under it wouldn't hurt.
 
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Herman

Foam

I called Hunter with this very question. Since the bottom tank wall will not conform to the the placement (hull)they suggested using urethane foam (the same kind you would use to insulate you home). You can pick up a small can at Home Depot (or most any hardware store). The orgional alumiumn tank in my H35 was placed with foam.
 
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Ed Schenck

Thanks for the quick response.

Actually Herman my tank does "conform" to the space. It is sitting on a flat 36x12" shelf that I had to build in my center v-berth locker. There was just no other place to fit a tank of any decent size. At that this one is only 22 gals(34x12x12). That rubberized shelf paper is a good idea, thanks Peggy.
 
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Peggie Hall/Head Mistress

Ed, it also might be a good idea to

put a brace at each end or corner of the tank, to keep it from shifting at all. That's easy to do: quarter round epoxied--or better yet, screwed down--to your shelf. If you brace the corners, miter the ends of the quarter round...it doesn't have to be 'finish carpentry" quality. I'm not a big fan of foaming in tanks. That boat builders do it doesn't mean it's a good idea. Boat builders don't care that eventually EVERYthing on a boat has to be replaced or needs work...they do what's easiest for them and has the least impact on their bottom line...and shooting foam that expands into a void is the cheapest way to support a tank. But it makes 'em much harder to remove--which is inevitable if a tank is aluminum--and can conceal a leak until the foam has become saturated with waste...turning a difficult enough project into a MAJOR one that starts with cutting all the foam out.
 
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Ed Schenck

Good idea, Peggy.

Also good that it doesn't have to be "carpenter finished" since I will be hanging upside down in that locker. :)
 
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Steve Rodes

Foam

Foam was used in my 37' O"DAY between the ice box and counter face when the reefer conversion kit was added. Works great as insulation but when it expanded it forced the plywood counter face outward. I would be careful with the application, allow plenty of room for expansion.
 
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David Undewood

how about closed cell foam... 1 inch

You know, I bet closed cell foam of the 1 inch thick variety would work great. It would not easly absorb fluids and could be just positioned in place while you strap the tank down tite.. bet that would work great. David
 
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Peggie Hall/Head Mistress

It's not necessary, David...

Although cheap thin-walled tanks have to be supported on all sides to keep 'em from bulging under the weight of the contents, good quality, thick walled tanks (and Ronco tanks are) don't need any support except on the bottom. Foam rubber--even closed cell foam--doesn't provide any support, so it's useless except as insulation...but tanks don't need insulating--which is main reason for using foam in any application. Y'all just seem determined to figure out how much you can complicate a job that's already a major PITA on most boats. :) Buy a good quality tank...support it on the bottom...brace it so it can't move...and call it done. 'Cuz it is done all it needs to be.
 
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