OK, In the interest of knowing when my tank was full before its contents spewed out my stanchion onto the deck, I ordered and installed a "Tank-Eye". I like simple devices, and it sounded great. When I drilled the 1" hole in my perfectly stink-free holding tank and a great odor eminated, I thought "oops". But the damage had been done, and the little plastic thingy came with a gasket, so I was hoping to be safe. Well, the little sucker got fouled the first time the level rose, and always looked full after that, and the stink didn't go away. I removed the tank-eye, and used silicone sealant and a 1/4" piece of corian scrap to cover the hole (4"x4"). It still stinks. Do I need to replace my tank, or is there a stink-free way to repair the hole? Also, I know I need to increase the vent size, but I can't figure out where to put the new vent. Below the rail, and I'm afraid the tank will fill with seawater in a good blow. Any ideas for a Catalina 30? Thanks! Brian 1983 Catalina 30 TRBSSK #3247 Chili Breeze Annapolis, MD
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Hmmm...
Silicone won't bond to polyethylene...but you can seal it by putting a piece of rubber under the piece of Corian and using screws to secure it. If you had a spill when you drilled the hole, that's most likely the source of your odor...clean up the entire area with detergent and water--but no bleach...once the area is dry--or no more standing water, spray every surface with Raritan K.O. full strength...don['t rinse, just let it dry, leaving the locker open so plenty of fresh air can circulate. Now...about moving your vent. There's a doodad called the UniSeal (you'll find it here: http://www.aussieglobe.com/avs96.htm) that makes it very easy to put a new fitting in a poly tank. Put the new thru-hull right below the toe rail...if you're worried about taking on water through it, cover it with a large clam shell.
Silicone won't bond to polyethylene...but you can seal it by putting a piece of rubber under the piece of Corian and using screws to secure it. If you had a spill when you drilled the hole, that's most likely the source of your odor...clean up the entire area with detergent and water--but no bleach...once the area is dry--or no more standing water, spray every surface with Raritan K.O. full strength...don['t rinse, just let it dry, leaving the locker open so plenty of fresh air can circulate. Now...about moving your vent. There's a doodad called the UniSeal (you'll find it here: http://www.aussieglobe.com/avs96.htm) that makes it very easy to put a new fitting in a poly tank. Put the new thru-hull right below the toe rail...if you're worried about taking on water through it, cover it with a large clam shell.
Makes Sense
Thanks Peggy, It makes sense that it was a spill ... even though it couldn't have been more than a few drops. I'll try the KO today. I also read a few more posts on this forum, and saw where you said Y-valves leak. I exercised the Y-valve while I was in there too, and it's possible that's the source of the leak. I'll wash all around with Wisk and water, then dry and treat with KO. I'll let you know how it works after spending Saturday night on the boat sleeping over the holding tank! I'll also look at upgrading the vent, and see where I can place it. Does it make sense to leave the existing vent and simply add a larger one, or should I plug up the old one? The only downside I see to leaving the old one is that there is an easy exit for air if the new vent is under water, thereby letting more water in. Thanks! Brian Chili Breeze
Thanks Peggy, It makes sense that it was a spill ... even though it couldn't have been more than a few drops. I'll try the KO today. I also read a few more posts on this forum, and saw where you said Y-valves leak. I exercised the Y-valve while I was in there too, and it's possible that's the source of the leak. I'll wash all around with Wisk and water, then dry and treat with KO. I'll let you know how it works after spending Saturday night on the boat sleeping over the holding tank! I'll also look at upgrading the vent, and see where I can place it. Does it make sense to leave the existing vent and simply add a larger one, or should I plug up the old one? The only downside I see to leaving the old one is that there is an easy exit for air if the new vent is under water, thereby letting more water in. Thanks! Brian Chili Breeze
There's one more possibility, Brian
Your sanitation hoses may have becomes permeated with odor...check 'em for that. As for leaving the existing vent into the so little air gets through it that it might as well not be there...and it's one more hose to become permeated with odor and stink.
Your sanitation hoses may have becomes permeated with odor...check 'em for that. As for leaving the existing vent into the so little air gets through it that it might as well not be there...and it's one more hose to become permeated with odor and stink.
Tank Eye
I have considered a tank eye. From your post, I assume that it gets dirty and doesn't work once it has been immersed in tank contents. True?
I have considered a tank eye. From your post, I assume that it gets dirty and doesn't work once it has been immersed in tank contents. True?
No Bleach ??
Peggy, I'm curious, why no bleach? Five percent Sodium Hypochlorite is one of my favorite things to mix with straight Hydrogen Hydroxide (couldn't resist after the Fire Ext thread)to use as a final rinse. Did I miss something in your book?
Peggy, I'm curious, why no bleach? Five percent Sodium Hypochlorite is one of my favorite things to mix with straight Hydrogen Hydroxide (couldn't resist after the Fire Ext thread)to use as a final rinse. Did I miss something in your book?
Bleach won't get rid of the odor, but...
It will prevent K.O. from working because it'll kill the "odor eating" bacteria in K.O. I have a hard time seeing the point of installing a device like the Tank Eye...'cuz you have be able to access the tank to be able to read it. If you have to be able to access the tank, you don't need the Tank Eye...just shine a flashlight on it to see how much is in it.
It will prevent K.O. from working because it'll kill the "odor eating" bacteria in K.O. I have a hard time seeing the point of installing a device like the Tank Eye...'cuz you have be able to access the tank to be able to read it. If you have to be able to access the tank, you don't need the Tank Eye...just shine a flashlight on it to see how much is in it.
Black Tank
Peggy, The tank is thick, opaque BLACK plastic. It's gotta be a pretty bright light ;-) The KO was sprayed on at lunchtime today! I looked at the UniSeal you recommend. Curiously similar to the doodad used to install the tank eye. Makes me think you are right about spilling something. I still am not sure how the Uniseal would be used in this application, though. Looks like it requires hard PVC pipe to go through it. I guess a conversion nipple could be added to connect the non-permeable vent hose, but wouldn't that torque the pipe? Do you have any pictures of example installations? Thanks again for all your help! Brian Chili Breeze Catalina 30
Peggy, The tank is thick, opaque BLACK plastic. It's gotta be a pretty bright light ;-) The KO was sprayed on at lunchtime today! I looked at the UniSeal you recommend. Curiously similar to the doodad used to install the tank eye. Makes me think you are right about spilling something. I still am not sure how the Uniseal would be used in this application, though. Looks like it requires hard PVC pipe to go through it. I guess a conversion nipple could be added to connect the non-permeable vent hose, but wouldn't that torque the pipe? Do you have any pictures of example installations? Thanks again for all your help! Brian Chili Breeze Catalina 30
The piece of hard becomes the hose connector
You slip the vent hose onto it and double clamp it. There are several illustrations of UniSeal applications on the AussieGlobe website. It's NOT rocket science...anyone with just a little more mechanical ability than is required to turn doorknobs should be able to do it. Otoh, if you're an engineer, it may be TOO simple.
You slip the vent hose onto it and double clamp it. There are several illustrations of UniSeal applications on the AussieGlobe website. It's NOT rocket science...anyone with just a little more mechanical ability than is required to turn doorknobs should be able to do it. Otoh, if you're an engineer, it may be TOO simple.
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