Peggie, A new set of questions regarding a thread that had been up on HOW under h40. Ronco is going to make a replacement holding tank for our aft head. Old one was 13 gal 0.090" alum. By adding 7" in height, new one will be 20 gal, plastic. Now it's time to tell Ronco what fittings we want. I read their web site and your book and still have some quwestions. 1. Inlet - previous was a straight barb on side of tank its near top. Is an elbow right on the top of the tank as good? 2. Outlet - previous one was an elbow on top with an internal tube to bottom. I must locate the outlet at least 7" above the bottom because of boat structure. Any reason not to keep the outlet on top with an internal tube to the bottom? What material should the tube be? 3. Vent - previous one was single 3/4" straight barb. I'm thinking about two lines, each 3/4". Also thinking about an elbow rather than straight vertical barb. Comments? 4. Cleanout port - did not have one previously. Is it a good thing for a holdiing tank? I see that Ronco has them with clear plugs and wondered about mounting one two thirds of the way up the tank to use as a sight gage to tell when tank is getting full. Bad idea? 5. Gages - Friends with new boats have tank gages. My previous tank did not. Recommendations for a gage?. 7 Vacuum flush - I just reread your book and talked my self out of an electric or manual vacuum flush head. After reading you recent post on how to flush using minimum water, I concluded my manual Groco HF can be as stingey with water as a vacuum head. Is that right? Thnak you for taking the time to wade through all of these questions.
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Some Ronco experience.
I installed a Ronco per Peggy's recommendation. My inlet/outlet/vent connections are all on top and are elbows. Inlet/outlet on top provides the best capacity while keeping the hoses clean. An outlet on the bottom allows "stuff" to lie in the hose. An inlet on the side reduces capacity. If you can see the tank easily you do not need a gauge. The level in the tank is visible as the "plastic" is translucent. I do not understand your comment about seven inches from the bottom. Do you mean the standpipe(outlet) has to be that far above the bottom? That would severely inhibit pumping out the tank. Lots of stuff would be left. I did not get a cleanout port. Hope I never need one!
I installed a Ronco per Peggy's recommendation. My inlet/outlet/vent connections are all on top and are elbows. Inlet/outlet on top provides the best capacity while keeping the hoses clean. An outlet on the bottom allows "stuff" to lie in the hose. An inlet on the side reduces capacity. If you can see the tank easily you do not need a gauge. The level in the tank is visible as the "plastic" is translucent. I do not understand your comment about seven inches from the bottom. Do you mean the standpipe(outlet) has to be that far above the bottom? That would severely inhibit pumping out the tank. Lots of stuff would be left. I did not get a cleanout port. Hope I never need one!
Answers to your questions
1. Fittings: I recommend putting all fittings on the top of the tank, with a pick-up tube to the bottom for the discharge ports. However, you need at least 5" clearance above the tank for the fittings. Whether on the top or a vertical surface, put the inlet from the toilet and the vent fitting AWAY from the hull, closest to the centerline of the boat...to prevent waste from running back toward the toilet and/or out the vent while heeled. If you plan to do any offshore cruising, spec TWO discharge ports and a threaded cap for one of 'em. The second one can be plumbed to the thru-hull when you're ready to leave the Bay, eliminating the need for a y-valve in the pumpout line. No point in plumbing for overboard discharge now, 'cuz you can't legally dump a tank in the Bay. 2. Don't even THINK of putting an outlet fitting 7" above the bottom of the tank...'cuz you'll always leave 7" of waste in the tank. It MUST either go at the bottom or on top with a pickup tube. 3. Go with 1" vents...an elbow on the tank is fine. 4. A cleanout on the side of a tank is a very bad idea. What if you ever had to open it when the tank is full???? Skip it...or put it on the top. 5. The law requires some means of determining when a holding tank is at least 3/4 full. If the tank is readily accessible for visual inspection, no gauge is needed...but if not, you'll need one. I recommend the Snake River AcuGage. Install a Lectra/San and you won't need any of the above. 7. (You must have skipped #6...it's not there). A manual toilet can be even more stingy with flush water than any electric toile--including the VacuFlush--'cuz the user controls it using the wet/dry valve.
1. Fittings: I recommend putting all fittings on the top of the tank, with a pick-up tube to the bottom for the discharge ports. However, you need at least 5" clearance above the tank for the fittings. Whether on the top or a vertical surface, put the inlet from the toilet and the vent fitting AWAY from the hull, closest to the centerline of the boat...to prevent waste from running back toward the toilet and/or out the vent while heeled. If you plan to do any offshore cruising, spec TWO discharge ports and a threaded cap for one of 'em. The second one can be plumbed to the thru-hull when you're ready to leave the Bay, eliminating the need for a y-valve in the pumpout line. No point in plumbing for overboard discharge now, 'cuz you can't legally dump a tank in the Bay. 2. Don't even THINK of putting an outlet fitting 7" above the bottom of the tank...'cuz you'll always leave 7" of waste in the tank. It MUST either go at the bottom or on top with a pickup tube. 3. Go with 1" vents...an elbow on the tank is fine. 4. A cleanout on the side of a tank is a very bad idea. What if you ever had to open it when the tank is full???? Skip it...or put it on the top. 5. The law requires some means of determining when a holding tank is at least 3/4 full. If the tank is readily accessible for visual inspection, no gauge is needed...but if not, you'll need one. I recommend the Snake River AcuGage. Install a Lectra/San and you won't need any of the above. 7. (You must have skipped #6...it's not there). A manual toilet can be even more stingy with flush water than any electric toile--including the VacuFlush--'cuz the user controls it using the wet/dry valve.
Thanks...
Carl - for asking the questions Peggie - for the well explained answers (This is one of my spring projects also...)
Carl - for asking the questions Peggie - for the well explained answers (This is one of my spring projects also...)
h40 too?
David, what model boat do you have? An early Hunter 40 Legend by any chance? If so, please email me at CarlOReitz@hotmail.com Thanks
David, what model boat do you have? An early Hunter 40 Legend by any chance? If so, please email me at CarlOReitz@hotmail.com Thanks
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