Tackle for secondary anchor

[skunther]

I have a 36' Hunter monohull with a 30lb bruce for my primary anchor. I just purchased a Fortress FX-23 for my secondary anchor, and I need get chain and rode. Any suggestions for what would be appropriate? I'm in the Salish Sea. I was thinking ~40' 3/16 chain and 150' 3/8 rode.

 

[jssailem]

I‘m suggesting here, consider 250 for the rode. Nothing was mentioned about where in the Salish Sea you hope to venture. Certainly unlikely to need more than your primary anchor in most of the Puget Sound anchorages. But if and when we USA tourists may get to sail north you might find some of the deep bays will eat up a good percentage of your 250 rode with a stern in shallow water and your bow in deep water parallel parked with others in some of the bays.

Many boaters have said ”bring lots of line to run a stern tie ashore“.

Welcome to the forum.

 

[dlochner]

Fortress recommends 6 feet of chain for every 25 feet of water. Excess chain weight will interfere with the anchor setting as the weight of the chain will bury the shaft.

Fortress Marine Anchors - Fortress Anchors

Fortress Marine Anchors out-performed heavier steel anchors in over 20 holding power tests around the world, in the last two decades. In one series of tests conducted by the US Navy, not only did Fortress Marine Anchors outperform other boat anchors, they were also able to withstand pull loads...

fortressanchors.com

Also check out SV Panope on YouTube. Steve is the king of anchor testing. I believe he has recently tested the Fortress.

 

[thinwater]

You probably only need an FX-16, but a 23 is good for very soft mud. The 23 will be hard to set in firm bottoms.

You need 1/4-inch G4 chain. 3/16 is not enough. Used as a secondary anchor (kedging or as a V) you really don't need chain for chafe, since the boat is not swinging. 10-15 feet is enough, or even less.

3/8-inch rope (not rode--the rode is the entire rope-chain combination--calling the rope portion "rode" is confusing and is a pointless nautical flourish) is too small for an FX-23. 1/2-inch nylon. Length depends on where you will anchor. 150 may be a little short, because you need long scope for kedging and when using minimal chain.

 

[skunther]

I‘m suggesting here, consider 250 for the rode. Nothing was mentioned about where in the Salish Sea you hope to venture. Certainly unlikely to need more than your primary anchor in most of the Puget Sound anchorages. But if and when we USA tourists may get to sail north you might find some of the deep bays will eat up a good percentage of your 250 rode with a stern in shallow water and your bow in deep water parallel parked with others in some of the bays.

Many boaters have said ”bring lots of line to run a stern tie ashore“.

Welcome to the forum.

We plan to go everywhere in the Salish, including north. Steep anchorage in coves with stern ties are anticipated. Our primary should be sufficient for this. Are you suggesting in a storm I may wish to deploy a secondary anchor as well, and would need enough rode to match the primary's reach?

Stern tie for sure. Thinking 600' of poly on a spool attached to the stern lifeline.

 

[skunther]

You probably only need an FX-16, but a 23 is good for very soft mud. The 23 will be hard to set in firm bottoms.

You need 1/4-inch G4 chain. 3/16 is not enough. Used as a secondary anchor (kedging or as a V) you really don't need chain for chafe, since the boat is not swinging. 10-15 feet is enough, or even less.

3/8-inch rope (not rode--the rode is the entire rope-chain combination--calling the rope portion "rode" is confusing and is a pointless nautical flourish) is too small for an FX-23. 1/2-inch nylon. Length depends on where you will anchor. 150 may be a little short, because you need long scope for kedging and when using minimal chain.

Perhaps the FX23 was overkill, but I got a killer deal on it and figured 36'7" LOA was close enough to its rated 39'. A bit more rope shouldn't be a problem.

 

[Stu Jackson]

I'm deliberately not answering your secondary anchor question.

I do, however, question your primary. Is it a Genuine Bruce or a knockoff? Even if genuine, 30# sounds light for a 36 foot boat regardless of its weight. Do you have a windlass? Your boats have reported tendencies to swing at anchor. Couple that with most likely a high freeboard, as well as stern ties where you cannot guarantee that the wind will NOT come at you sideways, and I believe you may want to investigate an alternate approach.

Most of our C34s and many C36 skippers have chosen 35# new gen anchors.

You may be interested in this bit of research that could help you out:

Anchoring 101 Anchors & TEST Results of New Generation Anchors EXCELLENT & Important

Anchor Selection 101 includes good discussions of various system selections and pictures of new generation anchors on bowsprits both short and extended Roll bar anchors on bow roller Rocna Flix

Why NEW GEN Anchors are Better:

Anchors & TEST Results of New Generation Anchors EXCELLENT & Important

Anchor System Sizing Tables (Reply #6) & Swivels Ground Tackle & Anchor System Sizing TABLES & Swivels

 

[skunther]

I do, however, question your primary. Is it a Genuine Bruce or a knockoff? Even if genuine, 30# sounds light for a 36 foot boat regardless of its weight. Do you have a windlass? Your boats have reported tendencies to swing at anchor. Couple that with most likely a high freeboard, as well as stern ties where you cannot guarantee that the wind will NOT come at you sideways, and I believe you may want to investigate an alternate approach.

I will review the material you sent, thanks for the info. The anchor is an original Bruce, on a windlass, though it is a 33lb Bruce, not 30 as I erroneously stated at the start of this thread. I’m not yet familiar with New Gen anchors, will look into them.