table legs

[stevebirch2002]

Hi

In the UK we use all rope hayards using pre-stretched braid on braid
polyester. USual lengths are as follows:

Main Sheet = 18 metres

Genoa Sheets = 9 metres each

Main Halyard = 22 metres

Genoa and Spinnaker halyards = 25 metres

Topping lift = 25 metres

These lengths are a trifle long but you can always cut a bit off, harder to
join a bit on!!

Regards

Steve Birch
At 19:09 04/06/02 -0000, you wrote:

 

[maciacarter]

Hello,

We just launched and had our first, glorious sail on our new to us
Vega, Oreneta, #2175. She sailed beautifully. What a delight. The
conversation on table legs is interesting, as our boat came with the
original legs, which are driving us bonkers, as our two small
children keep leaning on the table and swinging it around falling on
the floor and knocking everything else on the floor. What other
solutions are out there? I don't think we could manage a conversion
to an athwartship bench, but any ideas from the fleet would be
welcome.
On another note the halyards we got are wire and rope, and the wire
is badly hooked and kinked, and full of meat-hooks, they need
replacing. What length are the jib and main halyard? Does anyone
happen to know the height of the mast? Ours is a Proctor.
Great boat, we had a fabulous sail in her.
Christine

 

[rolyatad]

The previous owner of #712 made a nice table, about 2'x2', short
hardwood fiddles that dip at the corners for wiping-up, with short
1"x6" legs of hardwood that slip right over (straddle)the berth
matress. Can go either port or starboard, either fore, aft, or at
the middle of the selected berth. The legs are also notched, so that
when rotated 90 degrees, it will fit on the berths' inboard rails, in
the middle of the passageway forward. (I mostly never do that.) I
remove it from the main cabin for sleeping two people.

I could post photos, but not for a few days.

See the owner's manual for the particulars of the halyards, as
designed by Brohall. He shows a connection of wire and rope with a
nicopress loop in the former, and an eyesplice in the latter. The
manual is available here, somewhere?

 

[towlerg]

Hi,

love to see pictures of the table - sorry not bright enough to
visualize it from your description.

Tks in advance

George Towler "Vista" 1043

 

[vega1860]

Hi All,

Just got back from a five day business trip to California and am having a frustrating day trying to clear my email. I've been at it since 0800 (Now 1400!) server problems.

The original table is a pain in the rear but it does come in handy for entertaining in the cockpit. My solution was to convert the port side settee into a dinette with the seats athwartships facing fore and aft. The table is out of the way and is solidly mounted Last night Laura put her foot down and insisted that I finish the project by the end of June (Don't ask where I'll find the time). My inspiration came from photos I found on the VAGB site which I posted on the Yahoo group some months ago (I think they are still there).

Anyway, the new set up is a great improvement in every respect and the project proved not to be too difficult at all. Heck if I can do it surely ANYONE can!

Aloha,

Chuck Rose
SV Lealea,V1860
Honolulu

"maciacarter" cacarter@... wrote:

 

[stevebirch2002]

The usual diameter here in the UK is 10mm (metric now!!).

See ya

Steve Birch

At 00:11 07/06/02 +0000, you wrote:

 

[pelagicasd]

Keep the halyards long. Use a bowline for the shackle. Each season reverse
the line, tie a new bowline in one end and cut off the bowline on the other
end. The wear points will change every year and the lines will last for many
seasons. I use 5/16" Dacron
If you put the boat up in the winter take the lines off. When you take them
off do so by laying a small diameter cord along one end of the halyard and
firmly taping them together. Pull the halyard down and the cord through the
masthead sheaves. Leave the cord in place and putting the lines up next year
will be easy. Walt

 

[vega1860]

Brilliant Walt!

Exactly the way I would recommend except that I use 3/8" StaSet polyester braid.

Here's a tip for those who would like to be courteous to overnighters around you: Contribute to peace and quiet in the anchorage or marina. Instead of tying off your halyards on the mast cleats when you leave the boat, lead the ends to the pulpit and stern rail and tie them off there. This prevents them from setting up a racket banging against the mast in the wind. Of course this only works with all-rope halyards cut long enough to reach both pulpit and stern rail.

Aloha,

Chuck Rose
SV Lealea,V1860
Honolulu

"walt/judy brown/allore" bestvega@... wrote:

 

[mocap1]

A more common arrangement, one that I use, is to take a piece of bungee cord
with a hook at both ends (they are sold at all hardware stores) hook one end
to a shroud, stretch the cord around the halyards, and back to the shrouds.
Easier, quicker and neater.

Mort

 

[vega1860]

More common, yes, and it does work; but that means you have to BUY something, store it when not in use and find it again when you need it. Bunji cords deteriorate in the tropic sun too so they need to be replaced from time to time and remember to avoid the type with metal hooks. No Mort, I'll have to disagree with you on this one. I think my way is simpler and neater (And cheaper too of course). No shackles or bunjis for me, just an extra-long halyard and a bowline. Now that I think on it though, it probably won't work with the original wire/rope halyards.

Aloha,

Chuck

"??? ???" MortonCaplan@... wrote: