Trailered my 1981 Mac25 for the first time on its (correct, I think) single axle trailer, and it began to sway from side to side at about 52mph, and promised to get worst if I increased speed. Would addition of shocks help this ? If so, does anybody know if a specific or universal trailer shock kit that is available. Any other suggestions ? Thanks
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Rick Webb
Check Your Tounge Weight
It should be about 10% of the the total trailer weight. Then check your tire pressure keep it at the highest recomended pressure stamped on the tire.
It should be about 10% of the the total trailer weight. Then check your tire pressure keep it at the highest recomended pressure stamped on the tire.
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Don Evans
Sway Bars Needed
Is the trailer matched to the boat? Was wondering if the weight is distributed correctly on the trailer, or is sitting to high, or is the width of the axle to narrow for the width of the boat? A single axle trailer is more prone to sway than a dual, but anti sway bars, also known as weight distribution bars will reduce this. These help distribute the weight over a larger cross-section of the tow vehicle. I would take everything to a hitch and trailer expert. You need to solve this before the next move. Don
Is the trailer matched to the boat? Was wondering if the weight is distributed correctly on the trailer, or is sitting to high, or is the width of the axle to narrow for the width of the boat? A single axle trailer is more prone to sway than a dual, but anti sway bars, also known as weight distribution bars will reduce this. These help distribute the weight over a larger cross-section of the tow vehicle. I would take everything to a hitch and trailer expert. You need to solve this before the next move. Don
Where was your O/B.
John: Where was your outboard motor. If you leave it on the boat, you are going to reduce tongue weight. You may also need to get the weight balanced by moving the boat forward or backward on the trailer. and all of the other things that the others have mentioned. PS: What type of vehicle are you using to haul the boat?
John: Where was your outboard motor. If you leave it on the boat, you are going to reduce tongue weight. You may also need to get the weight balanced by moving the boat forward or backward on the trailer. and all of the other things that the others have mentioned. PS: What type of vehicle are you using to haul the boat?
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Curtiss Grant
Swaying Trailer
The previous postings are good suggestions I have found the MAC trailers to be difficult to load the boat far enought forward. If I am trailering long distance, I usually have to 'float' the boat 2 or 3 times to get it far enought forward, each time, I gain a couple of more inches forward. This is also dependant upon the ramp where you load it. I just got a new truck which sits higher than my old one and now I have some swaying at about 65 MPH. I just make an 800 mile trip and on the return, I worked the boat as far forward as possible and did not have the problem until my truck got below 1/2 tank of gas. With a full tank of gas, I hid 80 MPH without swaying. A little bit makes a lot of difference. I did not remove my motor as mentioned earlier. That is a good idea. My trailer has 2 horizonal "V" mounts which the boats sit on rather that the vertical bunk rails. I plan to build up the back mount so when I stick the trailer further in the water, the bost will be more level on the mounts simultaneously thereby easier to get the boat farther forward and should put more weight on the front of the trailer. I do not strap the bow real tight because it appears to pull up on the tongue when the boat bounces. I am still considering whether to strap the back of the boat to the trailer. I just can not imagine a 2500 pound boat moving out of the "V's" on the trailer. Good luck!
The previous postings are good suggestions I have found the MAC trailers to be difficult to load the boat far enought forward. If I am trailering long distance, I usually have to 'float' the boat 2 or 3 times to get it far enought forward, each time, I gain a couple of more inches forward. This is also dependant upon the ramp where you load it. I just got a new truck which sits higher than my old one and now I have some swaying at about 65 MPH. I just make an 800 mile trip and on the return, I worked the boat as far forward as possible and did not have the problem until my truck got below 1/2 tank of gas. With a full tank of gas, I hid 80 MPH without swaying. A little bit makes a lot of difference. I did not remove my motor as mentioned earlier. That is a good idea. My trailer has 2 horizonal "V" mounts which the boats sit on rather that the vertical bunk rails. I plan to build up the back mount so when I stick the trailer further in the water, the bost will be more level on the mounts simultaneously thereby easier to get the boat farther forward and should put more weight on the front of the trailer. I do not strap the bow real tight because it appears to pull up on the tongue when the boat bounces. I am still considering whether to strap the back of the boat to the trailer. I just can not imagine a 2500 pound boat moving out of the "V's" on the trailer. Good luck!
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Gary Jensen
your swaying trailer.
You can usually eliminate the swaying of a trailer by moving the boat forward (on the trailer) or move the trailer axel back. In both cases you would be increasing the tung weight. The swaying trailer can be VERY dangerous. It would have the same effect as the "tail wagging the dog". At any speed, that wouldn't be a pretty picture. Check your hitch and see how much weight you can place on it. The more---- the better. Good Luck
You can usually eliminate the swaying of a trailer by moving the boat forward (on the trailer) or move the trailer axel back. In both cases you would be increasing the tung weight. The swaying trailer can be VERY dangerous. It would have the same effect as the "tail wagging the dog". At any speed, that wouldn't be a pretty picture. Check your hitch and see how much weight you can place on it. The more---- the better. Good Luck
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Bob F.
Swaying trailer
I just replaced the tires on my 1975 vintage trailer (Catalina 22). The original tires were F78/14 which is a bias belt. These are hardly available and even then are much more pricey than radial tires. I found Goodyear Marathon tires specifically designed for trailers at about $90 each. They have a very heavy sidewall and I think are the equivalent of 6 ply. I had been warned that regular radials will let the trailer sway and eventually fail. You might check what type tires you have. Otherwise, all of the other comments relative to tongue weight and tow vehicle size and capacity apply. Too small a tow vehicle can let things get out of hand also.
I just replaced the tires on my 1975 vintage trailer (Catalina 22). The original tires were F78/14 which is a bias belt. These are hardly available and even then are much more pricey than radial tires. I found Goodyear Marathon tires specifically designed for trailers at about $90 each. They have a very heavy sidewall and I think are the equivalent of 6 ply. I had been warned that regular radials will let the trailer sway and eventually fail. You might check what type tires you have. Otherwise, all of the other comments relative to tongue weight and tow vehicle size and capacity apply. Too small a tow vehicle can let things get out of hand also.
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