supporting new holding tank

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Debra B

Am still trying to solve the problem of installing a larger holding tank. I have found one at Ronco that I think will work - will probably mock-up a cardboard version to be sure before I order. The problem is support. The space I am considering is under the V-berth (about 5 ft from the head, but the only available space that is large enough). As such, the base of the compartment is not flat. And I can't find a tank that matches the contour. Do I need to glass-in a floor? Is there some type of pour-in-place foam I could use as a support? What have others done?
 
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Ed Schenck

Here is what I did.

The Related Link to the Photo Forum is one possibility. As pointed out in the text with the pictures a larger tank will fit. But I had to retain access to the thru-hulls. Also in the Hunter Photo Forum see "Getting Ready for a New Holding Tank". I actually prefer Morrie's way of opening up the area. I wish I had done mine that way. Also see "completed holding tank" in the same Photo Forum. Another approach.
 
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Peggie Hall/HeadMistress

Which Ronco mold is it?

If the bottom is vee shaped, and if more than 50% of the walls of the vee are supported by the hull,a void directly under the the point of the vee should be ok....'cuz Ronco reinforces the corners of their tanks...they're about twice as thick as the tank walls. That would leave a space for any transducers under it. If you're really concerned about it, you could drop in a piece of plywood that would be supported by the hull to support the point of the vee. I don't think there's any need to glass anything in. Btw...5' from the toilet is fine. Where are you planning to put the tank fittings?
 
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Ed Schenck

Ronco #B223. .

on page 30 of their catalog seems a best fit for Debra's space. Problem is the hose connection for the outlet standpipe would need to be in the middle. The inlet hose and vent hose could still enter from the top at the starboard side. This still leaves a lot of storage space, some in front of the tank, some under. A 'door' or access panel in the v-berth bulkhead could provide better access than the top cover. There are other tank options but I don't think any others over 30 gallon would have the right shape. There are a lot more good rectangular tanks that fit if you stay at 28 gallons or less.
 
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Debra B

Ronco B115 should fit.

Fits in the space, is large enough - I think - and should still provide access to the thru-hulls. (I don't have to worry about transducers as they are elsewhere.) But 2 thru-hulls, and today, 1 pump for overboard discharge. I wouldn't put V down, but the 19 inch end down, with the large flat side vertical against the side of the compartment. This should allow access to the thru-hulls. If I put a piece of plywood down without glassing it in, and strap the tank to the wall of the compartment, does that make the tank secure enough? B223 seems too wide, I would have to measure to be sure, but I don't think the compartment is 39 inches wide, and that seems like it would need a lot more support. But I will check before I place the order...
 
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Ed Schenck

Do not like B115.

Debra, that odd-shaped bottom is going to make it very difficult to position the outlet pipe. Remember that it is a standpipe, it goes in at the top and down close to the bottom. But where is the lowest and flattest point of that tank. At the very least it has to be near the middle which means you will have the hose running across the top of the tank. I agree it will fit but that shape is going to make it very difficult to secure. I really think you want to glass in the supports and screw down a shelf like I did. As you can see in my Photo Forum article(first post here) that was fairly simple and is bulletproof. B115 is only three gallons larger than my tank. And it allows a lot of remaining storage in that locker. We can discuss offline if you wish at: h37skipper@aol.com
 

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Peggie Hall/HeadMistress

Standpipe a good idea, but not necessary...

And it's Deb who'll spec the fittings locations and sizes. Ideally, the pumpout fitting should be at the lowest point in the tank...but since Debra is in coastal waters that provide immediate access to open sea beyond 3 miles where she can dump the tank, it's not as critical to get every last gallon out as it is for you, Ed. Come to think of it, Deb...your coastal waters are NOT "no discharge"...the nearest NDZs are Destin Harbor and Key West. Have you considered going with Lectra/San and a small tank for use only if you go to Destin or KW? List price is of $1000 is a little heart-stopping, but discount prices averages $725-759...and I've seen it advertised on one site for $699. That's not a lot more than the tanks you're looking at by the time you buy all the additional hose required for a tank and do whatever is needed to secure the tank.
 
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Debra B

lectrasan power problem

My batteries are at the extreme aft of the boat. To power the LectraSan, I would either need to add a battery up front - and then figure out how to charge it... or run very large cable (Raritan recommends 2 guage - for the length I would have to run - over 30 ft. given the twists and turns). The 50 amp duty cycle is extreme for my set-up. LectraSan is very popular around here, because it is legal basically everywhere. My plan in the near term is to get down to the islands - where the whole issue is mostly moot. A tank is still nice to keep the anchorages cleaner, but many boats in the islands have no holding tanks. (If a few things fall into place, the new tank may just wait till I get back - this assumes I can go Now.) And 180 to 250 for a decent tank is still a lot less than LectraSan - and the power problem. Given that I will need to glass in a floor/support system, this may just have to wait anyway.....
 
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Debra B

standpipe only good if the tank is level

And even if you are really careful, as soon as you drain one fresh water tank (port or starboard) or hang an outboard on the stern-rail, the boat is out of level. Better to selectively construct a "low point" and drain from there.
 
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