I know that this has been discussed before and bad anodes are the cause. However, has anyone tried any of the numerous water filters to see if they reduce the sulphur odor from the water heater?
sulphur smell
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I have been in the rv business for 40 years and have never heard of an anode in a water heater give a sulpher smell from it , it is usually bad water or water that had some antifreeze lput in it and not rinsed out enough , as a matter of fact i am rinsing one out properley today , thi includes the fresh water tank as well ..good luck
A water heater can provide an ideal environment for the conversion of sulfate to hydrogen sulfide gas. The water heater can produce hydrogen sulfide gas in two ways - creating a warm environment where sulfur bacteria can live, and sustaining a reaction between sulfate in the water and the water heater anode. The anode is usually made of magnesium metal, which can supply electrons that aid in the conversion of sulfate to hydrogen sulfide gas.
If hydrogen sulfide odor is associated primarily with the hot water system, replacing the water heater's magnesium corrosion control rod with one made of aluminum or another metal may improve the situation.
To remove low levels of hydrogen sulfide, install an activated carbon filter. The filter must be replaced periodically to maintain performance. Frequency of replacement will depend on daily water use and concentration of hydrogen sulfide in the water.
You may also wan t to get in the habit of using the hot water faucet even if you don't have any water hot. It keeps it moving through the heater.
It's actually a very common problem, and is very often caused by a failed anode in the tank.
Anodes are included in the water heater of glass-lined steel tanks to protect the inside of the tank against corrosion from acids in the water, stray electrical currents, etc. Glass lined tanks, when the water heater is being built, are heated up red hot. Then glass powder is sprayed inside the tank and it adheres upon contact. However, it doesn't cover every single crack and crevice inside the tank - it should, but in actual practice, it doesn't. The purpose of the anode is to protect those spots inside the tank that have not been glass-covered from rusting away prematurely. The anode is eaten away, rather than the tank being eaten away. Kind of a backup to the glass lining.
The anode is a magnesium rod, about 3/4" in diameter that is attached to the inside of the hot water "out" nipple, via a plastic coupling. It is electrically isolated from the fittings and from the tank. It extends all the way across the inside of the tank, stopping just short of the other side. There is an iron rod in the center of the magnesium that supports it, the iron being stronger than the magnesium. As the magnesium is eaten away and the iron rod exposed, there's a chemical reaction between the water, the iron and the magnesium that causes the "rotten egg" smell. Replacing the anode and flushing out the tank will usually make the foul smell go away.
Unfortunately ONLY water heaters that have glass lined tanks have replaceable anodes. The tanks in less expensive water heaters are anodized steel or aluminum. When the anodizing wears off, a new water heater is the only cure.
Domestic water heaters also have anodes...those extend down in the tank from the top. However, domestic water heaters usually develop other problems--failed thermostat or leak--that requires replacing the water heater long before the anode is eaten away, so few people even know there is an anode in one.
Anodes are included in the water heater of glass-lined steel tanks to protect the inside of the tank against corrosion from acids in the water, stray electrical currents, etc. Glass lined tanks, when the water heater is being built, are heated up red hot. Then glass powder is sprayed inside the tank and it adheres upon contact. However, it doesn't cover every single crack and crevice inside the tank - it should, but in actual practice, it doesn't. The purpose of the anode is to protect those spots inside the tank that have not been glass-covered from rusting away prematurely. The anode is eaten away, rather than the tank being eaten away. Kind of a backup to the glass lining.
The anode is a magnesium rod, about 3/4" in diameter that is attached to the inside of the hot water "out" nipple, via a plastic coupling. It is electrically isolated from the fittings and from the tank. It extends all the way across the inside of the tank, stopping just short of the other side. There is an iron rod in the center of the magnesium that supports it, the iron being stronger than the magnesium. As the magnesium is eaten away and the iron rod exposed, there's a chemical reaction between the water, the iron and the magnesium that causes the "rotten egg" smell. Replacing the anode and flushing out the tank will usually make the foul smell go away.
Unfortunately ONLY water heaters that have glass lined tanks have replaceable anodes. The tanks in less expensive water heaters are anodized steel or aluminum. When the anodizing wears off, a new water heater is the only cure.
Domestic water heaters also have anodes...those extend down in the tank from the top. However, domestic water heaters usually develop other problems--failed thermostat or leak--that requires replacing the water heater long before the anode is eaten away, so few people even know there is an anode in one.
This seems to be more of a problem in the warmer climates and also usually has to do with hot water systems that are left unused for long periods of time. In order to correct your situation besides replacing the anode you will need to flush the tank to kill the bacteria. A chlorine solution allowed to sit in the tank for 24 to 36 hours should do the trick.
Peggie is right on regarding the anode. I replaced mine on my six gallon Raritan hot water heater, did a good flush and any smells in the water went away.
It was toward the end of the life of the anode that created the smells it seems.
Neal
It was toward the end of the life of the anode that created the smells it seems.
Neal
I would run a small amount of bleach through your system, and give it a week, before you do anything else. I am talking about maybe a cup of bleach. Easy to do, it may not work, but going from easy to complicated has always been a good system for me.
Bleach is a no-no
Never put bleach into a water heater...if it's run on AC power bleach can destroy the heating element and the thermostat. That's why the water heater should be bypassed before recommissioning the fresh water system or the water heater drained and flushed VERY thoroughly after recommissioning before operating it on AC power.
Never put bleach into a water heater...if it's run on AC power bleach can destroy the heating element and the thermostat. That's why the water heater should be bypassed before recommissioning the fresh water system or the water heater drained and flushed VERY thoroughly after recommissioning before operating it on AC power.
Check the following site from Atwood heaters for sulphur smell
http://www.atwoodmobile.com/manuals/waterheaters/MPD 93756 SP 11.19.07.pdf
I contacted Seaward and they have an anode that screws into the drain on the water heater. It is an inexpensive fix - $15. It is available from them and many distributors. I purchased mine from Defenders.
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