I am a new onwer of a 1990 H23. I am rather suprised that there are no cleats at all on the deck or even in the anchor locker. I will need to install cleats primarily for the purpose of anchoring and occasionally tying off to a dock. Any suggestions as to exact locations to optimally place these cleats. I have reviewed the archives although exact details in the responses are lacking. Any photos available from anyone? Nothing specific noted in the photo forum. Shouldn't the cleats be quite close to the outer edges of the deck? How does one then provide adequate backing for theses cleats? Are washers enough or should I utilize stainless plates? Thanks for any advice in advance. First time owner :>) Alex
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Backing plates
I'd place the cleats in similar positions to what you see on other boats. I too am very surprized that your boat has no cleats. Just washers for backing is not very strong unless you mount the cleats in an area that has aluminum plates built into the hull. Backing plates are a better option and provide the most strength. You do not have to use stailess steel backing plates. You could use marine plywood, starboar plastic, or aluminum plates. I think aluminum is the best choice because it is easy to cut yet still very strong.
I'd place the cleats in similar positions to what you see on other boats. I too am very surprized that your boat has no cleats. Just washers for backing is not very strong unless you mount the cleats in an area that has aluminum plates built into the hull. Backing plates are a better option and provide the most strength. You do not have to use stailess steel backing plates. You could use marine plywood, starboar plastic, or aluminum plates. I think aluminum is the best choice because it is easy to cut yet still very strong.
Perhaps consider a bollard with bow chocks
Alex, I don't know the Hunter 23 very well but since you seem to want to set up your bow cleats primarily for anchoring and secondarily for docking I suggest the following arrangement: (1) try to find a sturdy deck area, right in the center and just forward of the anchor locker (aft of the locker is a second choice alternative). Chances are that you may be able to create a strong triangular deck pad between the forestay and the anchor locker. Reinforce it, if necessary with some fiberglass plies. (2)then use this deck pad area to mount as big and strong a stainless steel bollard as you have room for. Equipped with a proper backing plate, this bollard effectively becomes your equivalent of the old "Samson Post" and will be the central attachment point for your dock lines, as well as your anchor rode, mooring line, towline or (heaven forbid) sea anchor rode. To use it for anchoring make sure that you have a nice captive anchor roller, preferably on a very short "bowsprit" to keep the rode clear of chafing. In order to prevent chafing from your dock lines or mooring line, find to small stainless steel "bow chocks" (fairleads with an open slit on top) and mount them on the outermost edges of the deck, far enough forward of the bollard so the lines will run at a 30-60 degree angle between bollard and chock. As far as the stern cleats go, if you ever use them for tying to a stern anchor, try to mount them in the outermost aft deck corners in order to avoid chafe damage to lines and fiberglass (or use chocks again). Fair winds. Flying Dutchman PS Santa Barbara was the homeport of "Rivendel II" from 1991 to 1995!
Alex, I don't know the Hunter 23 very well but since you seem to want to set up your bow cleats primarily for anchoring and secondarily for docking I suggest the following arrangement: (1) try to find a sturdy deck area, right in the center and just forward of the anchor locker (aft of the locker is a second choice alternative). Chances are that you may be able to create a strong triangular deck pad between the forestay and the anchor locker. Reinforce it, if necessary with some fiberglass plies. (2)then use this deck pad area to mount as big and strong a stainless steel bollard as you have room for. Equipped with a proper backing plate, this bollard effectively becomes your equivalent of the old "Samson Post" and will be the central attachment point for your dock lines, as well as your anchor rode, mooring line, towline or (heaven forbid) sea anchor rode. To use it for anchoring make sure that you have a nice captive anchor roller, preferably on a very short "bowsprit" to keep the rode clear of chafing. In order to prevent chafing from your dock lines or mooring line, find to small stainless steel "bow chocks" (fairleads with an open slit on top) and mount them on the outermost edges of the deck, far enough forward of the bollard so the lines will run at a 30-60 degree angle between bollard and chock. As far as the stern cleats go, if you ever use them for tying to a stern anchor, try to mount them in the outermost aft deck corners in order to avoid chafe damage to lines and fiberglass (or use chocks again). Fair winds. Flying Dutchman PS Santa Barbara was the homeport of "Rivendel II" from 1991 to 1995!
See my earlier post re anchor cleat
Bow and anchor cleats should be simple to install. I'll try to get some pictures of my cleats and post in the next day or so. The aft cleats on this boat aren't much to speak of. I'll post those too. Peter H23 "Raven"
Bow and anchor cleats should be simple to install. I'll try to get some pictures of my cleats and post in the next day or so. The aft cleats on this boat aren't much to speak of. I'll post those too. Peter H23 "Raven"
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