Suggestions for restoring Teak paneling and cabinetry on Lancer 27

[James Chamberlain]

This is my first post here, and just have a quick question regarding how I could go about restoring Teak wood. Our new-to-us Lancer 27PS is furnished with Teak cabinetry, trim, table, and head door. Most of the wood is structurally fine and is not split at all. It is rough to the touch and faded in some areas though. The bottom of the paneling separating the head compartment is slightly warped due to water damage. I am wondering how others would go about restoring the finish of this wood, and to what degree. I have worked with wood in the past and have custom fabricated pieces but have never done anything with Teak and know it is a somewhat different procedure. Just looking for some suggestions. Thanks!

 

[dmax]

Re-finishing teak is not that different from other hardwoods. First, you want to clean the surface with a solvent like alcohol or even actone (which will remove the previous finish most likely). Then lightly sand everything, being especially careful with veneered surfaces that you don't sand through the veneer. If sanding doesn't remove some of the staining, use some teak cleaner/lightener to try to clean it up. There are some stains that are too deep to remove in which case you can cover it somehow or replace the wood. From there, put on the finish of your choice - you might want to stick with what was put on at the factory. I like Watco Teak Oil as it is easy to apply and can be touched up without having to re-do the whole piece.

 

[Leeward Rail]

being especially careful with veneered surfaces that you don't sand through the veneer.

This is the big thing... Those panels have veneers that are usually the thickness of a sheet of paper. Only the trim pieces are solid wood. Don't sand through the veneer.

Teak oil is also my preferred finish.

 

[James Chamberlain]

Thank you, I appreciate the advice, I was thinking something along the lines of this as well. I apprecaite the suggestion for Teak oil as well as I have heard that some oils for Teak are not as good and have been trying to find one that people seem to like. A lot of the cabinetry itself isn't all that rough to the touch, and is still pretty smooth, so I'm not sure if those parts even need to be sanded. I'm thinking just cleaning and oiling those should do the trick. They don't show the wear of being exposed to the elements, they are just dry and definitely haven't had any care put into them for a while. The head door and wall paneling, however, I think will need some light sanding as it is rough to the touch in addition to the degraded finish. Thanks again for the response, this information has helped me greatly!

 

[James Chamberlain]

This is the big thing... Those panels have veneers that are usually the thickness of a sheet of paper. Only the trim pieces are solid wood. Don't sand through the veneer.

Yes, this is my concern. I am hesitant to sand as I don't want to damage the veneer. I think pieces like the cabinet doors won't need any sanding and just cleaning and oiling them will suffice as they are just dry but still smooth. Due to the roughness though, I think the head door might take very light sanding. The bottom of the Teak that makes up the wall for the head compartment has a little water damage due to the companionway hatch being left open before we acquired the boat. This is the area that concerns me the most as I think in order to do anything that will smooth out the bottom of that panel, a bit of sanding will be required. Since the bottom of that piece up to about an inch and a half already shows a bit of peeling the veneer on that will never be perfect I don't believe. Do you think it would be safe to try and smooth out the very bottom part of that panel (due to the peeling already there the veneer is already pretty much destroyed I think)? Thanks!

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

Big thing here is to experiment in a hidden corner where any accidents won't be on display.

For the paneling, I've used fine wet and dry emery paper with teak oil as the lubricant. Try a #1000 for starters to see if it improves things. If it works, wipe with a wet cloth soaked with more teak oil. Use extreme caution with the sand paper as mentioned above.

For solid trim, don't hesitate to use a coarser paper if required, maybe down to #320 if required with the same procedure. Always keep the pressure light.

 

[James Chamberlain]

Very true, I will certainly do a small test in an area that won't be displayed. My biggest concern is what will happen if the veneer is sanded away at the bottom of that panel. I had to vacuum some rainwater out of the bilge with my Shop-Vac and decided to get some dust out of the corners as well. There was one area where the veneer was peeling badly enough that the raw suction of the Shop-Vac actually chipped tiny pieces off. I promptly stopped vacuuming, but this shows the condition of the very bottom part of the piece (up to about 2 inches up in some parts). Sanding this is sure to take off the veneer in that part, but will the wood below look okay and blend into the veneer the rest of the panel is covered in after it's sanded?

 

[Leeward Rail]

For the paneling, I've used fine wet and dry emery paper with teak oil as the lubricant.

That is exactly what I was taught by my dad, who was taught by his cabinet maker grandfather.

Works very well on oil finished surfaces.

Obviously not great if you want to apply another finish.

 

[Leeward Rail]

There was one area where the veneer was peeling badly enough that the raw suction of the Shop-Vac actually chipped tiny pieces off.

Save the pieces.

I have had good success regluing veneer that was peeling.

I just gently lift the veneer and use a toothpick to get adhesive under it. For veneer that has come off, I have also reglued it with quality cabinet maker glue.

Depending on location I then clamp or brace the veneer in place.

The wood core needs to be solid for that to work. That can be fixed with adhesive injected into the wood.

Just like repairing old furniture really

 

[James Chamberlain]

Thank you. That is an excellent idea I hadn't thought of. I think it can definitely be re-glued. In that case, I will keep the sanding near that area as light as I possibly can, if any even needs to be done.

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

Sanding this is sure to take off the veneer in that part, but will the wood below look okay and blend into the veneer the rest of the panel is covered in after it's sanded?

The core of the teak plywood is not teak, but something cheaper. It will not match other areas which have maintained their veneer. Also the grain will be at 90 deg. to the teak.

 

[James Chamberlain]

I had a feeling the grain would not match. I think I'm going to try to restore it the best I can and use some glue to secure pieces that are peeling off. Having to sand the area and then attempt to finish the plywood below is a last resort, and I know it won't look great with the veneer just above.

 

[Leeward Rail]

I know it won't look great with the veneer just above.

If that happens you can have stain custom tinted. The store would need a sample of similar wood to repeatedly test it on. That way at least the plywood core would be the same color. Worst case, intentionally make it contrast. A pattern or something.

 

[James Chamberlain]

Yeah. If that were the only option it would do. I looked today and it doesn't seem too bad. Most of the Teak just needs some oil and it will be good. It's really only that area, but it all seems repairable while keeping the veneer mostly intact. Thanks again for all the advice and suggestions!

 

[Leeward Rail]

Post photos once done!

 

[James Chamberlain]

I'll try for sure. After getting a small splinter just from putting my hand against the exterior wall of the head, I'm probably gonna try to get to it a bit faster now. It'll probalby be a little while though but I'll try to get some pics and post them here, as I think pictures are essentail to show progress and share with others!