I've got a '85 Hunter 25.5 with a GM10, 1" shaft, with the plastic stuffing box (washer inside!). Got the old flax out and it seemed to be one(!) wrap's worth. Hunter said the box takes 5/16's flax, with two wraps. After pushing two new wraps in, I couldn't even get the threads on the nut and box to meet up to re-tighten. If anyone else out there has the same set-up, and has done this, I could sure use some enlightenment on flax size, # of wraps, and technique! Thanks
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Haven't done it but......
you may try one wrap and then use the nut to compress the flax. Then back the nut back out and instert the second wrap. Reinsert the nut and see if this works.
you may try one wrap and then use the nut to compress the flax. Then back the nut back out and instert the second wrap. Reinsert the nut and see if this works.
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Dick Carey
Stuffing Box Wraps
Brad, Since the flax wraps (rings) go in seperately and not as one continuous wrap of two turns, etc., it's possible that there is still one wrap/ring still in the back of the stuffing box. You will need a 'flax picker' to reach in and snag it if it's there. Maybe a mirror and a light will help to see inside the box. Dick Carey S/V Puffin
Brad, Since the flax wraps (rings) go in seperately and not as one continuous wrap of two turns, etc., it's possible that there is still one wrap/ring still in the back of the stuffing box. You will need a 'flax picker' to reach in and snag it if it's there. Maybe a mirror and a light will help to see inside the box. Dick Carey S/V Puffin
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Roger Magill
Same problem on 35.5
Brad, We are going through the same situation on our 35.5. Had trouble getting the flax out (wound up getting a flexible pick). After putting the new flax in, we also had trouble getting the threads to catch. We finally got it to go using the method described earllier (one wrap in, thread it down, put the next one in) - but then disaster hit. While tightening down the plastic nut by hand, the inner threads stripped and the stuffing box had to be tossed. We got many comments from the yard workers about the fact that Hunter would use plastic for this critical a part. Needless to say we are now replacing it with brass.
Brad, We are going through the same situation on our 35.5. Had trouble getting the flax out (wound up getting a flexible pick). After putting the new flax in, we also had trouble getting the threads to catch. We finally got it to go using the method described earllier (one wrap in, thread it down, put the next one in) - but then disaster hit. While tightening down the plastic nut by hand, the inner threads stripped and the stuffing box had to be tossed. We got many comments from the yard workers about the fact that Hunter would use plastic for this critical a part. Needless to say we are now replacing it with brass.
Yard comments!
Roger: When you go back to the yard in 5-10 years the guys in the yard will say something about using a brass unit. 'The corrosion is soooooo bad we had to cut it off." We have not had any problem with our and it's 15 years old. Don't overtighten it.
Roger: When you go back to the yard in 5-10 years the guys in the yard will say something about using a brass unit. 'The corrosion is soooooo bad we had to cut it off." We have not had any problem with our and it's 15 years old. Don't overtighten it.
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Brad Stone
Roger and Steve...
Yikes! I can envision stripping those threads. I've got the mirror, the flashlight, and the puller... seems I got it out pretty clean, unless I'm looking at a SECOND washer. Can you tell me what size and how many wraps you got back in? Thanks.
Yikes! I can envision stripping those threads. I've got the mirror, the flashlight, and the puller... seems I got it out pretty clean, unless I'm looking at a SECOND washer. Can you tell me what size and how many wraps you got back in? Thanks.
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Anthony Bavuso
wow, I didn't even get that far....
Brad, I have a 25.5 with the same inboard setup as you describe. But when I tried to repack my stuffing box, I couldn't even get the packing nut off! Before the nut could clear the threads it ran into the shaft coupling! So it looks like the shaft has to be removed to repack the box! I had previously assumed that all 25.5 inboards had the same problem. I couldn't believe that they would design it such that you couldn't repack it without uncoupling the shaft. But apparently this problem must be exclusive to my 25.5. How much clearance did you have between the packing nut and the shaft coupling when you removed yours?
Brad, I have a 25.5 with the same inboard setup as you describe. But when I tried to repack my stuffing box, I couldn't even get the packing nut off! Before the nut could clear the threads it ran into the shaft coupling! So it looks like the shaft has to be removed to repack the box! I had previously assumed that all 25.5 inboards had the same problem. I couldn't believe that they would design it such that you couldn't repack it without uncoupling the shaft. But apparently this problem must be exclusive to my 25.5. How much clearance did you have between the packing nut and the shaft coupling when you removed yours?
Brad, un-stuff the stuffing box.
Brad: The method that is to be employed here is that you cut a single ring of the flax. Then you push it into the nut. Then you snug it down. If you are in the water this would stop any water comming in. Then you back out the nut and put in the next ring of flax. When you put the second ring you want to offset the cuts. So assume that the cut on the first ring is at the top of the box, put the cut down on the second ring. Then you SHOULD be able to put the nut back in and snug it up enough to get a bite. If you are using the old type cotton flax with wax, you need to have a little drip 1-3 drips per minute with the engine running and prop turning (nothing when you are out of gear). If you have the newer telfon type flax materials you should just tighten enough so the drip stops. The only other thing may be that you got the wrong info on the stuffing size. Recheck with Hunter.
Brad: The method that is to be employed here is that you cut a single ring of the flax. Then you push it into the nut. Then you snug it down. If you are in the water this would stop any water comming in. Then you back out the nut and put in the next ring of flax. When you put the second ring you want to offset the cuts. So assume that the cut on the first ring is at the top of the box, put the cut down on the second ring. Then you SHOULD be able to put the nut back in and snug it up enough to get a bite. If you are using the old type cotton flax with wax, you need to have a little drip 1-3 drips per minute with the engine running and prop turning (nothing when you are out of gear). If you have the newer telfon type flax materials you should just tighten enough so the drip stops. The only other thing may be that you got the wrong info on the stuffing size. Recheck with Hunter.
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Brad Stone
Anthony...
Suddenly it seems my cup is half full! You'd think all these things would be standardized, especially in a production boat. After unscrewing the nut, and pushing it and the washer back against the coupling, I'd say there was about an inch and a half of shaft exposed... just enough to get in there with a mirror and the pick tool. I'm going to try the method Steve suggests and if that doesn't work out, I may pull the shaft as well to see what's up. We were on the verge of that anyway, because the washer, deep inside and stuck to the old flax, was almost impossible to get out. It took two bits of hooked wire, light tapping with a small hammer, and LOTS of coaxing to get it out. Your situation's certainly strange, though. Good luck with that... Brad
Suddenly it seems my cup is half full! You'd think all these things would be standardized, especially in a production boat. After unscrewing the nut, and pushing it and the washer back against the coupling, I'd say there was about an inch and a half of shaft exposed... just enough to get in there with a mirror and the pick tool. I'm going to try the method Steve suggests and if that doesn't work out, I may pull the shaft as well to see what's up. We were on the verge of that anyway, because the washer, deep inside and stuck to the old flax, was almost impossible to get out. It took two bits of hooked wire, light tapping with a small hammer, and LOTS of coaxing to get it out. Your situation's certainly strange, though. Good luck with that... Brad
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Brad Stone
Steve...
Thanks for the info. I'm going to call Hunter and check flax size with them again. Then I'm going with your method... Brad
Thanks for the info. I'm going to call Hunter and check flax size with them again. Then I'm going with your method... Brad
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