stuffing box problem

[brad minda]

Hello to all my name is Brad and my wife is Minda. My 85 Catalina 30 is now named Collette( wife's middle name ), smarter than I look!! She, the boat, is currently docked in Stockton CA but will soon be moved to the Alameda CA area.

Now for the current problem at hand. My stuffing box was leaking way to much almost a consent drip and my bilge pump was having to work often to keep up. In at attempt to loosen the locking nut the packing nut moved but the locknut true to its name didn't move and I cant get it to loosen. Strangely if I back the packing nut away form the locknut just a fraction of a bit it stops leaking and only seep the correct amount of water but I cant lock it is place as the lock nut doesn't move. any ideas on how to get the locknut loose. As the boat is new to me I don't know how old the packing is. I had the idea of repacking the nut and locking it back to the lock nut. Also what about dripless packing. Thanks, Brad

 

[Joetech]

Try spraying with some sort of penetrating oil and let it sit for a few hours. Make sure you have the right size wrench so you don't round the corners. Does it not move in either direction? If the oil doesn't work try heat. Not a torch, you'll fry the packing and hose and that would be very bad. Try a hair dryer or an electric paint stripping gun. A paint stripping gun is like a supercharged hair dryer. It can get extremely hot, so be very careful. Is your boat out of the water? If so, you may need to take out the stuffing box which would require pulling back the prop shaft. I assume you are thinking about replacing the shaft packing.

 

[Charles Erwin]

Strike the lock nut with a hammer on the flat of the nut only. A ball peen or framing hammer will work but no home run swing here - just a firm smack or two delivered on one or two flats will do the trick.

Then grab the aft end of the stuffing box - where the band clamps are - with large slip joint pliers so the hose cannot twist. Put a wrench on the lock nut and you should be able to rotate the lock nut a bit. Rotate right and left and things will free up.

New packing will not allow the gland nut to land at the locknut's present location. The locknut has to be loose to get the right adjustment.

By all means read this http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/stuffing_box

Charles

 

[jeepbluetj]

The link that Charles Erwin posted to Maine Sail's writeup is excellent.
I have a dripless in my C30. It was a good upgrade, but you can't do it in the water.

 

[Anonymous 121765]

BM,

I always hated my stuffing box man. Just to get room for my expander wrench, I needed to cut the handle down for to allow access. On one haulout, I had a PSS waterless shaftseal put in. Yea it was an extra upfront cost but, I never worry about changing out my packing now.

Just something to think about pal. I now have NO green water seeping into my boat, or the continued maintenance.

CR

 

[Jack - La Paz Mx]

Changed my packing in the water each year with no problems. After a 9 month absence from the boat (I tighten packing so there are no drips) I loosened nut but shaft would not turn. Slid nut up shaft, removed old packing, shaft was still frozen. Penetrating fluid, heat, bigger wrenches would not budge the shaft. On the day I arranged for towing to the yard to have it hauled out of the water and perhaps a Sawsall applied to shaft or packing gland, an experienced mechanic walked by and grabbed a hammer and hit the packing gland twice. Water flowed and the shaft could be turned. Apparently salt had packed into the shaft/gland clearance. I had tried everything, but not the hammer. So he wanted $20 (this is Mexico, although he was British) and I tipped him well. No haulout, no tow, no yard fees or possible additional damage. Repacked the shaft packing, tightened nut to minimal dripping, will feel for warmth as we motor out to the islands and adjust accordingly. Ran great in forward and reverse in the slip so all's well. Yes, the suggestion to use a hammer has validity. Hope my experience helps others.

 

[brad minda]

I thank you all for all your help and advice. Can,t wail to get to the boat Saturday and get it done. Thnaks

 

[PineyWoods]

I know this is late to reinforce a warning in the "Mainenecrusing" link above but if your shaft is bronze as in all the older 30's, be sure NOT to use a packing with graphite, as this can react electrolytically with the shaft. It had in mine, which had sat for a couple of years in saltwater before we bought it, with severe surface corrosion and scaling in the graphite impreg. packing area and continuous leaking. I ended up "turning" the shaft with a fine file to bright bronze, then finishing with 600 grit emery paper with engine running in gear at about 1500 RPM dockside. And re-packing with West's PTFE-impreg. 3/16" flax. After one re-adjustment, it's been dripless sitting for a year.
Pete

 

[brad minda]

Saturday I got to the boat in howling wind and rain went below and go to work. A couple of shots of BP Blaster and a few taps with a hammer and the lock nut began to turn. I worked it until it would turn easily over enough threads to adjust. I worked the next 3 hours trying to get the correct drip ratio. but finally got 6 drips per minute, locked it down and ran the engine in both forward and reverse. everything seems to be good but I can see this is an item that needs to be checked often. Again thanks for all the great advise...Brad