I finally worked up enough nerve to attempt my first stuffing box re-pack (ever)in the water. I have all tools and materials needed but cannot get the packing nut loose from the lock nut. I have a 1 drive inch shaft with bronze packing gland. I've tried wd-40, heat, tapping it w/ a metal hammer, brute strength, voodoo, virgin sacrifices, etc. I'm assuming, correctly I hope, that the threaded assembly is Lefty Loosey-Righty Tighty. Does anyone have any suggestions? Thanks in advance.
Stuffing box packing nut is frozen
- Thread starter aquaholic1
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Two suggestions..
Get some "PB Blaster" and apply liberally to the joint. Soak several times and let soak overnight if possible. It is available at most auto supply stores, and I think I saw it at Wal-Mart too. It is IMHO the very best chemical loosening agent. Second, get longer wrenchs. I use the adjustable wrenches that look like a 2-prong fork, but for the first time loosening you may need a couple of 18-24" pipe wrenches. Borrow if you can because the next time you will only need normal-sized tools. Yes the threads are Lefty Loosey-Righty Tighty. This may sound dumb but make *sure* you are really turning to loosen it. If you are upside-down or in an odd position, it is easy to make a mistake. When looking at the top of the locknut it should turn CCW to move away from the gland on the end and move toward the prop. I use heat as the absolute last resort. It tends to work if the two pieces you are trying to loosen are of different metals. In your case both pieces are the same metal.
Get some "PB Blaster" and apply liberally to the joint. Soak several times and let soak overnight if possible. It is available at most auto supply stores, and I think I saw it at Wal-Mart too. It is IMHO the very best chemical loosening agent. Second, get longer wrenchs. I use the adjustable wrenches that look like a 2-prong fork, but for the first time loosening you may need a couple of 18-24" pipe wrenches. Borrow if you can because the next time you will only need normal-sized tools. Yes the threads are Lefty Loosey-Righty Tighty. This may sound dumb but make *sure* you are really turning to loosen it. If you are upside-down or in an odd position, it is easy to make a mistake. When looking at the top of the locknut it should turn CCW to move away from the gland on the end and move toward the prop. I use heat as the absolute last resort. It tends to work if the two pieces you are trying to loosen are of different metals. In your case both pieces are the same metal.
T-9 Liquid
Local mechanic swears by this stuff. You can find the spray, but liquid is hard to find. It works, at least he's convinced me. Soak it each day and leave it. Of course you've been doing that, but like most things on a boat, just keep trying. It will come - eventually.
Local mechanic swears by this stuff. You can find the spray, but liquid is hard to find. It works, at least he's convinced me. Soak it each day and leave it. Of course you've been doing that, but like most things on a boat, just keep trying. It will come - eventually.
Consider this
The thinner nut was tightened to keep the larger nut from moving. Focus your effort on backing down the thinner nut, and the rest will come easy.
The thinner nut was tightened to keep the larger nut from moving. Focus your effort on backing down the thinner nut, and the rest will come easy.
Lots of Water
Do not remove the packing while the boat is in the water. If you do, you will open the boat to the sea. Unless you have a plan to stop the water while you work on the packing, I suggest you wait till you haul the boat.
Do not remove the packing while the boat is in the water. If you do, you will open the boat to the sea. Unless you have a plan to stop the water while you work on the packing, I suggest you wait till you haul the boat.
I think he's aware of that...
I think he knows what's going on, that he'll have a hole in his boat for a moment. Otherwise why would he have to "get the nerve" to do it? It is done all the time, and there's a first time for everyone.
I think he knows what's going on, that he'll have a hole in his boat for a moment. Otherwise why would he have to "get the nerve" to do it? It is done all the time, and there's a first time for everyone.
To Cookie of CT....
just curious...did your boat sink from trying to change the packing? Lots of us have done it without incident, so if you have some direct experience to the contrary please let us hear it.
just curious...did your boat sink from trying to change the packing? Lots of us have done it without incident, so if you have some direct experience to the contrary please let us hear it.
Thanks for the concern
My plan for slowing the water flow to a tolerable level while re-packing the gland was to pack silly putty wrapped in saran wrap or plumbers putty around the shaft outside of the hull, and tie a piece of inner tube around the shaft inside the boat once i backed off the packing nut, then remove the silly putty and tube when i was finished. Does that sound like a viable plan? My bilge pump works, and is rated at 800 GPH. My drains to the bilge from the engine room are all unobstructed. I'm expecting a moderate flow, not a gush, but am prepared for a gush. If it's too much water I can put a single ring of packing on, re-tighted the packing nut and wait until i haul out next time, which could be a year or two.
My plan for slowing the water flow to a tolerable level while re-packing the gland was to pack silly putty wrapped in saran wrap or plumbers putty around the shaft outside of the hull, and tie a piece of inner tube around the shaft inside the boat once i backed off the packing nut, then remove the silly putty and tube when i was finished. Does that sound like a viable plan? My bilge pump works, and is rated at 800 GPH. My drains to the bilge from the engine room are all unobstructed. I'm expecting a moderate flow, not a gush, but am prepared for a gush. If it's too much water I can put a single ring of packing on, re-tighted the packing nut and wait until i haul out next time, which could be a year or two.
Take Cookie's Advice
It the nut is that hard to remove, then what will happen if you break something while taking in off? I'd wait until it was on the hard and dry, so that the job would get done right. What if you don't have the right size flax? Two weeks ago my friend called Hunter and they absolutely insisted that 3/16 was the proper size. Turns out he really needed 3/8 to seal it off. Do yourself a favor - wait if you can.
It the nut is that hard to remove, then what will happen if you break something while taking in off? I'd wait until it was on the hard and dry, so that the job would get done right. What if you don't have the right size flax? Two weeks ago my friend called Hunter and they absolutely insisted that 3/16 was the proper size. Turns out he really needed 3/8 to seal it off. Do yourself a favor - wait if you can.
hammer
I could not get mine apart. Don Casey a boat guru said to use a hammer and punch. Give the nut a rap at 3 o' clock
I could not get mine apart. Don Casey a boat guru said to use a hammer and punch. Give the nut a rap at 3 o' clock
Exactly what kind of tools are you using...
to break the lock nut loose? It makes a difference. Pipe wrenches did not work in my case, nor did the adjustables. On our boat the wider packing nut and narrower locking nut are two different sizes. Purchase or borrow two service wrenches of the right size. These are a large open ended wrench on one end with a short cocked handle. Then get a 12 inch piece of SS tubing large enough to slide over the handle of each one for leverage. Hold the packing nut with one wrench while turning the locking nut with the other, lefty loosey. Mine popped right loose. Terry
to break the lock nut loose? It makes a difference. Pipe wrenches did not work in my case, nor did the adjustables. On our boat the wider packing nut and narrower locking nut are two different sizes. Purchase or borrow two service wrenches of the right size. These are a large open ended wrench on one end with a short cocked handle. Then get a 12 inch piece of SS tubing large enough to slide over the handle of each one for leverage. Hold the packing nut with one wrench while turning the locking nut with the other, lefty loosey. Mine popped right loose. Terry
Maybe I'm turning it the wrong way
If I were looking down the shaft from the transmission (top of stuffing box) towards the prop,wouldn't I need to tighten the locking nut (clockwise) while loosening the packing nut (couter clockwise)to seperate the two? Once they were seperate, loosen the packing nut until it came free, then change the packing.
If I were looking down the shaft from the transmission (top of stuffing box) towards the prop,wouldn't I need to tighten the locking nut (clockwise) while loosening the packing nut (couter clockwise)to seperate the two? Once they were seperate, loosen the packing nut until it came free, then change the packing.
That sounds like the right directions to me
But you should hold the packing nut fixed and only turn the locking nut. Looking from the transmission the locking nut will loosen turning it CW and it will thread down the stuffing box toward the prop.
But you should hold the packing nut fixed and only turn the locking nut. Looking from the transmission the locking nut will loosen turning it CW and it will thread down the stuffing box toward the prop.
I might be able
to solve the drip problem by tightening the packing nut. However, I can't even do that until I can loosen the packing nut.
to solve the drip problem by tightening the packing nut. However, I can't even do that until I can loosen the packing nut.
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