I just had the top end of my yanmar rebuilt over the winter. If it ever stops snowing on Cape Cod, I will re-assemble the engine. I would like to replace the packing now because it is easier to reach with only half an engine in the way. However, after loosening the packing nut and trying to slide back the box holding the stuffing, I noticed it won't slide back enough to get the flax pick in! I think that the shaft coupling has to come off and the engine must be slid into the cabin a bit. I have asked this ? in the forum before, but never ran into anyone with a similar problem. Anyone out there with a similar problem?
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Correct, at least on our 1982 27
John A friend of mine just helped me replace the packing system on our 82 27' with the PSS dripless (which I recommend!). We had to uncouple the transmission coupling and unbolt the engine mount bolts so that we could lift the engine back about a foot or so (maybe not even that much) and get the new seal on correctly. Although it may be possible to just pick out the flax without moving the engine, it's easy enough to move it and get yourself some room. We also found that the coupler was stuck onto the shaft (probably hadn't been moved in 15 years) and we had to hammer it off using a wood block to help. I think you're on the right track. Good luck. Ron Vanderveer
John A friend of mine just helped me replace the packing system on our 82 27' with the PSS dripless (which I recommend!). We had to uncouple the transmission coupling and unbolt the engine mount bolts so that we could lift the engine back about a foot or so (maybe not even that much) and get the new seal on correctly. Although it may be possible to just pick out the flax without moving the engine, it's easy enough to move it and get yourself some room. We also found that the coupler was stuck onto the shaft (probably hadn't been moved in 15 years) and we had to hammer it off using a wood block to help. I think you're on the right track. Good luck. Ron Vanderveer
when you find out
When you find out let me know. I have the same boat and need to solve the same problem. My Yanmar has been rebuilt but still need to get at the stuffing box before spring. Thanks Peter
When you find out let me know. I have the same boat and need to solve the same problem. My Yanmar has been rebuilt but still need to get at the stuffing box before spring. Thanks Peter
J
john
Ron, did you unbolt the coupling bolts or just
cut them off with a grinder? I am also concerned about trying to get the coupler off of the shaft. I have been soaking it with PT blaster and plan on heating it as well with a propane tourch. With a few hammer hits, I hope it will come off without too much trouble.
cut them off with a grinder? I am also concerned about trying to get the coupler off of the shaft. I have been soaking it with PT blaster and plan on heating it as well with a propane tourch. With a few hammer hits, I hope it will come off without too much trouble.
You shouldn't have to take it off actually
John and Peter My situation was that we had to slide the PSS dripless coupler onto the shaft from front to back, so we had to gear-pull and tap the engine/transmission coupler that was on the shaft, off, and then put it back on at the end of the procedure. That took a lot of patience and time (luckily my buddy is more patient than I am!) Anyway, if you guys don't want to do the dripless shaft seal, then you should be able to just unbolt the engine and lift it back as far as it will go (two of us did it with no effort). If your boats are not in the water, you can go out and unscrew the zincs and the prop if you need more room (we did mine in the water, so that wasn't an option!). But you won't need to unbolt the transmission coupler, just leave it on and move the whole engine and shaft instead. That will get you the room to back off the packing nut, and tease out the packing itself. You can remove the clamps and pull the whole thing off the tube in the rear if you need to. Hope this helps. If you decide to do the dripless seal, let me know and we'll tell you what we learned on that too. Feel free to email at rvanderveer@bellsouth.net Take care, Ron
John and Peter My situation was that we had to slide the PSS dripless coupler onto the shaft from front to back, so we had to gear-pull and tap the engine/transmission coupler that was on the shaft, off, and then put it back on at the end of the procedure. That took a lot of patience and time (luckily my buddy is more patient than I am!) Anyway, if you guys don't want to do the dripless shaft seal, then you should be able to just unbolt the engine and lift it back as far as it will go (two of us did it with no effort). If your boats are not in the water, you can go out and unscrew the zincs and the prop if you need more room (we did mine in the water, so that wasn't an option!). But you won't need to unbolt the transmission coupler, just leave it on and move the whole engine and shaft instead. That will get you the room to back off the packing nut, and tease out the packing itself. You can remove the clamps and pull the whole thing off the tube in the rear if you need to. Hope this helps. If you decide to do the dripless seal, let me know and we'll tell you what we learned on that too. Feel free to email at rvanderveer@bellsouth.net Take care, Ron
Another way....
I've had the opportunity to install two of these wonderful devices, but never had to move the engine. The coupler can be a pain, but I used another method to separate it from the shaft. Undo the bolts that hold the two parts of the coupler together; you should be able to get the two sections an inch or two apart. Also, take out the small set screws that hold one coupler to the shaft (on the end that needs the coupler removed to install the dripless system; leave the set screws on the coupler nearest the engine alone). Then place your largest and longest socket (from a socket wrench set) in between the two couplers sections, next to and parallel with the shaft. Then bolt back together to the two sections of the coupler. If this makes any sense, as you retighten the two sections together, it will literally push the shaft out of the loosened coupler. The shaft may only move the length of the socket you inserted; you may have to undo the bolts, pull apart the two couplers as far as you can, and inset another socket; retighten and the shaft will likely come out. If you've tried this, and nothing moves, then grab the mallet, some penetrating oil, a piece of wood and wail away.
I've had the opportunity to install two of these wonderful devices, but never had to move the engine. The coupler can be a pain, but I used another method to separate it from the shaft. Undo the bolts that hold the two parts of the coupler together; you should be able to get the two sections an inch or two apart. Also, take out the small set screws that hold one coupler to the shaft (on the end that needs the coupler removed to install the dripless system; leave the set screws on the coupler nearest the engine alone). Then place your largest and longest socket (from a socket wrench set) in between the two couplers sections, next to and parallel with the shaft. Then bolt back together to the two sections of the coupler. If this makes any sense, as you retighten the two sections together, it will literally push the shaft out of the loosened coupler. The shaft may only move the length of the socket you inserted; you may have to undo the bolts, pull apart the two couplers as far as you can, and inset another socket; retighten and the shaft will likely come out. If you've tried this, and nothing moves, then grab the mallet, some penetrating oil, a piece of wood and wail away.
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