Can anyone clarify exactly where I can find the stuffing box ? Do I have to remove the "heavy wall hose" in ordet to expose the box and then to replace the wax stuffing ? Also where can I order the steaming anchor light bulb at the top of the mast ? Thanks for info. Bob Freda
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Rich J
the stuffing box made easy
Bob, the best I can do is direct you to another site. go to www.diy-boat.com then click on "Archives" once on that page scroll down to "Engines" it has a good "how to" all about packing etc...
Bob, the best I can do is direct you to another site. go to www.diy-boat.com then click on "Archives" once on that page scroll down to "Engines" it has a good "how to" all about packing etc...
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Paul Palmer
Stuffing box
Bob Your stuffing box should be attached to the heavy wall hose you are talking about with a couple of hose clamps. Do not remove the hose. There should be a bronze fitting (the stuffing box)attached to the hose and a large nut on the fitting. Your prop shaft will go through the nut and through the stuffing box. You will need a packing nut wrench or two large channel lock pliers to take the nut off the stuffing box to get to the packing. The P.T.F.E flax packing works very well. The rule of thumb is that you tighten the nut until just a few drops of water drip from the nut when underway. I have found that using the P.T.F.E packing my shaft doesn't drip at all. This is the setup on my OD 25. I'm not familiar with the 27 but it should be similar if not exactly the same. The bulb may be a regular 12 volt automotive bulb. You would need to remove it and see what the industry number is stamped on the base of the bulb. It may be available at your local WalMart or Auto Parts Store. Hope this helps, Paul Palmer
Bob Your stuffing box should be attached to the heavy wall hose you are talking about with a couple of hose clamps. Do not remove the hose. There should be a bronze fitting (the stuffing box)attached to the hose and a large nut on the fitting. Your prop shaft will go through the nut and through the stuffing box. You will need a packing nut wrench or two large channel lock pliers to take the nut off the stuffing box to get to the packing. The P.T.F.E flax packing works very well. The rule of thumb is that you tighten the nut until just a few drops of water drip from the nut when underway. I have found that using the P.T.F.E packing my shaft doesn't drip at all. This is the setup on my OD 25. I'm not familiar with the 27 but it should be similar if not exactly the same. The bulb may be a regular 12 volt automotive bulb. You would need to remove it and see what the industry number is stamped on the base of the bulb. It may be available at your local WalMart or Auto Parts Store. Hope this helps, Paul Palmer
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Don Evans
Adding to Pauls Info
First be sure that you have a conventional stuffing box, using Pauls' description, as more people are adding dripless shaft sealing systems. Be sure to remove all the old flax packing from the gland, using a dental type pick. Buy the right size of packing material (string diameters), meant to fit inside the gland. Check to make sure the driveshaft is not badly scored from old packing being too tightly compressed against the shaft. Many recommend cutting packing string in small segments, say 3 sections to overlap each other as it is wrapped around the shaft inside the gland. The gland tightening nut will have to be adjusted as the new packing "seats" in the gland. The rate of drip should be about 2 to 3 drops per minute while the shaft is turning. I believe there is an excellent diagram and description at Sailnets home page. Do a search in their archives. Nigel Calder describes this very well in his Boat Owners Mechanical book. Any West Marine store should be able to find your replacement steaming light bulb. You may have to know the make, but I believe there pretty standard stuff. Don
First be sure that you have a conventional stuffing box, using Pauls' description, as more people are adding dripless shaft sealing systems. Be sure to remove all the old flax packing from the gland, using a dental type pick. Buy the right size of packing material (string diameters), meant to fit inside the gland. Check to make sure the driveshaft is not badly scored from old packing being too tightly compressed against the shaft. Many recommend cutting packing string in small segments, say 3 sections to overlap each other as it is wrapped around the shaft inside the gland. The gland tightening nut will have to be adjusted as the new packing "seats" in the gland. The rate of drip should be about 2 to 3 drops per minute while the shaft is turning. I believe there is an excellent diagram and description at Sailnets home page. Do a search in their archives. Nigel Calder describes this very well in his Boat Owners Mechanical book. Any West Marine store should be able to find your replacement steaming light bulb. You may have to know the make, but I believe there pretty standard stuff. Don
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Bob Freda
Thanks Don
Thanks for your info re stuffing box. I have the boat covered now but I don't recall seeing a bronze fitting which somehow attaches to a " stuffing box" on either side of the hose. There appears to be the same size shaft going cleanly into and exiting from the heavy wall hose on either side where the hose clamps are placed. That is what perplexes me. Perhaps this is what you refer to as a non conventional system. if this is so would I then have to remove the clamps to get at the packing material ? However I will look once again to make sure my eyes are not deceiving me.What is your E mail address I don't seem to have it with the O'Day chat room response ormat. Mine is tncdrbob@ix.netcom.com. Thanks Bob Freda Thanks Thank You
Thanks for your info re stuffing box. I have the boat covered now but I don't recall seeing a bronze fitting which somehow attaches to a " stuffing box" on either side of the hose. There appears to be the same size shaft going cleanly into and exiting from the heavy wall hose on either side where the hose clamps are placed. That is what perplexes me. Perhaps this is what you refer to as a non conventional system. if this is so would I then have to remove the clamps to get at the packing material ? However I will look once again to make sure my eyes are not deceiving me.What is your E mail address I don't seem to have it with the O'Day chat room response ormat. Mine is tncdrbob@ix.netcom.com. Thanks Bob Freda Thanks Thank You
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Bob Freda
Thanks Paul
Thanks for your reply. I got one from from Don also. I wrote him that I wasn't sure I saw a bronze fitting on either side of the hose. That is what confused me. I'll look again the boat is covered now. Maybe the 27' with a Westerbeek 10 hp engine has a differernt set up. I'll keep you informed if you care to send me your E mail address mine is tncdrbob@ix.netcom.com. Thanks, Bob Freda
Thanks for your reply. I got one from from Don also. I wrote him that I wasn't sure I saw a bronze fitting on either side of the hose. That is what confused me. I'll look again the boat is covered now. Maybe the 27' with a Westerbeek 10 hp engine has a differernt set up. I'll keep you informed if you care to send me your E mail address mine is tncdrbob@ix.netcom.com. Thanks, Bob Freda
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Don Evans
Go To Website For Picture
Bob if you go to www.shaftseal.com, you will get an idea what some of the dripless seal systems look like. These do not use flax packing, but rely on a different type of seal, such as graphite, rubber, etc. to keep the water out. These are for the most part maintenance free. Some use graphite, water or oil for lubricating the spinning shaft. Practical Sailor just did a review of these systems that replace conventional stuffing box's. Sounds like you may have one. If you do not have the 2 big brass nuts between the shaft tube hose and your shaft coupling plate at the transmission there may be one of these new type of shaft seals. If your still having trouble, repost your query at the props and driveline forum on the homepage. The host of that forum is the company that sells the pss shaftseal system. Don evansdo@ene.gov.on.ca evansdo@vianet.on.ca
Bob if you go to www.shaftseal.com, you will get an idea what some of the dripless seal systems look like. These do not use flax packing, but rely on a different type of seal, such as graphite, rubber, etc. to keep the water out. These are for the most part maintenance free. Some use graphite, water or oil for lubricating the spinning shaft. Practical Sailor just did a review of these systems that replace conventional stuffing box's. Sounds like you may have one. If you do not have the 2 big brass nuts between the shaft tube hose and your shaft coupling plate at the transmission there may be one of these new type of shaft seals. If your still having trouble, repost your query at the props and driveline forum on the homepage. The host of that forum is the company that sells the pss shaftseal system. Don evansdo@ene.gov.on.ca evansdo@vianet.on.ca
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