Stuffing Box getting "hot"

[Clydo]

With two rings of 1/4 GTU and the nut snugged up finger tight I'm getting sufficient water to keep the nut just tepid warm after 1 hr of running. It drips very slowly, maybe a drop every two or three minutes, with the shaft not turning. I'm going to tighten one flat at a time to see if I can get it to a point where it won't drip unless the shaft turns, but drips sufficiently with the shaft turning to keep the nut at a reasonable temperature.

Suggest you have fairly tight. Had yard do mine on C30. Motored
about 40 minutes to another location for canvas work. Took guy
done in cabin to show him something and had water flowing around on the floor. He suggested
I probably should do something about that. Bilge pump not working.
Manual pump did job after frantic pumping. When had water level
low enough discovered yard had failed to tighten nuts tight enough and
one had backed off.

Clyde Thorington
C310 # 245
ILEAN TOO
San Jose, CA

 

[KZW]

Once I get the drip correct, I will give the locking nut a tap with a cold chisel and hammer. It won't move after that.

 

[Stu Jackson]

No, please don't do that.

You WANT to be able to eventually adjust it.

Just use the locking nut, that what's it's there for. Check it every once in a while, you may have to back off the locking nut, tighten the box and resnug the locking nut.

Your idea is like using 5200 to bed stanchions!

 

[KZW]

Stu,

We may agree to disagree on this one. After getting the nut into position and running the engine for a few hours with it there, tapping it tight provides a good bit of security. It probably won't need to be moved for a number of years. I'm quite sure mine hadn't been touched since the boat was new in 2005.

I have two really good wrenches that fit the nuts well, but I'm not made of upper body strength with those wrenches. I also carry the cold chisel and hammer.

Checking is a good thing. But I'm willing to bet the mortgage money most folks don't check every start up, every shut down, and every hour while running. The fact is, checking is a pain:
-- Remove the bedding
-- Remove both mattress halves
-- Lift up the boards and check with a flashlight
-- Replace everything

Cheers

 

[KZW]

After tightening the nut by two flats, I was able to get no drip with the shaft not turning, and just warm to the touch after 25 min minutes of turning at 2000 rpm.

 

[McIntoshUSA]

I just adjusted my stuffing box. It was leaking with engine off. Now it i snot leaking when engine is off, but it drips about every 2 seconds when the shaft is spinning. Is that OK. I understand when it drips that cools the shaft. Bilge pump does it job when it is dripping while running now.

Thanks Mike

 

[Alan Gomes]

I just adjusted my stuffing box. It was leaking with engine off. Now it is not leaking when engine is off, but it drips about every 2 seconds when the shaft is spinning. Is that OK. I understand when it drips that cools the shaft. Bilge pump does it job when it is dripping while running now.

Thanks Mike

All forms of packing need some amount of water for lubrication while the shaft is turning. 30 drips/minute is more than you need to accomplish this, so you might want to try tightening it a bit to slow it down, but not so much that the stuffing box runs bone dry while the shaft is in rotation. It doesn't take a great deal of moisture to cool off the box, but it does take some.

The way you have it isn't going to hurt anything, but you should be able to play with it a bit and dial it in a little better.

 

[Tom J]

Stu,

We may agree to disagree on this one. After getting the nut into position and running the engine for a few hours with it there, tapping it tight provides a good bit of security. It probably won't need to be moved for a number of years. I'm quite sure mine hadn't been touched since the boat was new in 2005.

I have two really good wrenches that fit the nuts well, but I'm not made of upper body strength with those wrenches. I also carry the cold chisel and hammer.

Checking is a good thing. But I'm willing to bet the mortgage money most folks don't check every start up, every shut down, and every hour while running. The fact is, checking is a pain:
-- Remove the bedding
-- Remove both mattress halves
-- Lift up the boards and check with a flashlight
-- Replace everything

Cheers

You actually can see the stuffing box if you open the engine cover all the way and aim a good flashlight over the top of the engine on the port side, looking down and aft. I don't check mine very often. A few times a season, or whenever the bilge pump kicks in more often than usual.

 

[New Horizons]

Stu,

We may agree to disagree on this one. After getting the nut into position and running the engine for a few hours with it there, tapping it tight provides a good bit of security. It probably won't need to be moved for a number of years. I'm quite sure mine hadn't been touched since the boat was new in 2005.

I have two really good wrenches that fit the nuts well, but I'm not made of upper body strength with those wrenches. I also carry the cold chisel and hammer.

Checking is a good thing. But I'm willing to bet the mortgage money most folks don't check every start up, every shut down, and every hour while running. The fact is, checking is a pain:
-- Remove the bedding
-- Remove both mattress halves
-- Lift up the boards and check with a flashlight
-- Replace everything

Cheers

KZW,

Some time ago, someone on this site had the excellent idea of sawing all three boards in half, right at the point that the 2 mattresses touch. This means you only have to remove one mattress to access the areas under the boards.

My Racor filter is under the first hatch and since I sawed the boards in half it is much easier to access.

 

[valcour]

I believe that may be a factory setup on older boats. Hull 218 has all three aft board cut in half.

 

[Clydo]

I just adjusted my stuffing box. It was leaking with engine off. Now it i snot leaking when engine is off, but it drips about every 2 seconds when the shaft is spinning. Is that OK. I understand when it drips that cools the shaft. Bilge pump does it job when it is dripping while running now.

Thanks Mike

I have been told that no drips with engine off and 2 or 3 per minute when running
would be ok. This might apply to flax packing but not sure about other types.


Clyde Thorington
C310 # 245
ILEAN TOO
San Jose, CA

 

[Alan Gomes]

I have been told that no drips with engine off and 2 or 3 per minute when running would be ok. This might apply to flax packing but not sure about other types. Clyde Thorington C310 # 245 ILEAN TOO San Jose, CA

That is probably just fine.

 

[Tom J]

Bunk boards

I believe that may be a factory setup on older boats. Hull 218 has all three aft board cut in half.

Great idea! My hull, #231, has the one piece boards, but I will definitely cut them.

 

[pk104]

I have haul 104. I cut all mine in half a couple of years ago. It makes getting into the various areas a lot easier.

 

[Clydo]

That is probably just fine.

Alan - Hi. Great to see you check and reply on this list. You always had some really
great information for the C30 owners. Still sailing to Catalina?

Clyde Thorington
C310 # 245
ILEAN TOO
San Jose, CA

 

[Alan Gomes]

Alan - Hi. Great to see you check and reply on this list. You always had some really great information for the C30 owners. Still sailing to Catalina? Clyde Thorington C310 # 245 ILEAN TOO San Jose, CA

Hello Clyde! Yep, I get over to Catalina as often as I can. And to keep this on topic, I do so with the cool stuffing box! Cheers!