I have a Morgan 382. I recently noticed a fast drip from the stuffing box ie packing gland nut. The owners manual gives very basic adjustment instructions. I was hoping for some good guidance on how to adjust the packing.
Stuffing Box adjustment
- Thread starter chap769
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Depends on the stuffing
There are different types of packing used and the type determines how tightly you want to adjust it. Some drip a drop or so a minute and some can be adjusted tight enough it doesn't drip at all. For the teflon or wax impregnated old fashioned kind, back off the locking nut (the inner one) while holding the gland nut in position. You don't want the stuffing box to turn against the rubber hose that connects it to the stern tube. When the locking nut is turned off a turn or more then tighten the gland nut 1/8 to 1/4 turn and see if the drip slows or stops. If the shaft is worn this is like chasing your tail. No matter how well you adjust it it will start leaking again before too long. Dave Doolin 1969 M30 Angel's Wing
There are different types of packing used and the type determines how tightly you want to adjust it. Some drip a drop or so a minute and some can be adjusted tight enough it doesn't drip at all. For the teflon or wax impregnated old fashioned kind, back off the locking nut (the inner one) while holding the gland nut in position. You don't want the stuffing box to turn against the rubber hose that connects it to the stern tube. When the locking nut is turned off a turn or more then tighten the gland nut 1/8 to 1/4 turn and see if the drip slows or stops. If the shaft is worn this is like chasing your tail. No matter how well you adjust it it will start leaking again before too long. Dave Doolin 1969 M30 Angel's Wing
ldguptill
To state the obvious the shaft gets worn if you make the stuffing box too tight. The trdae-off is a slow leak versus shaft wear. Once the shaft is worn the only solution is to replace, it the slow leak turns into a faster leak you can always tighten the stuffing box a little
To state the obvious the shaft gets worn if you make the stuffing box too tight. The trdae-off is a slow leak versus shaft wear. Once the shaft is worn the only solution is to replace, it the slow leak turns into a faster leak you can always tighten the stuffing box a little
The 'usual' readjustment .......
is to tighten down until you get 2-5 drops per minute with the engine/shaft at normal rpm. That will usually result in 1 drop every minute or two with the shaft not turning. If the shaft has become worn or galled, then you can take it to a machinist to 'dress' the surface back to 'smooth'. Flax packing is the usual material to stuff the box but since its a 'natural' product can begin to decompose after a few years. The 'modern' packing that results in virtually dripless stuffing box is braided PTFE from GoreTex .... brand name is GFO Packing. Its relatively expensive but can be considered 'permanent'. It works well but you need a 'smooooooth' shaft to use it. The frictional characterists is so low that you can run a 'tight' box and have little frictional heat and virtually no need for the 'drips' to cool the packing.
is to tighten down until you get 2-5 drops per minute with the engine/shaft at normal rpm. That will usually result in 1 drop every minute or two with the shaft not turning. If the shaft has become worn or galled, then you can take it to a machinist to 'dress' the surface back to 'smooth'. Flax packing is the usual material to stuff the box but since its a 'natural' product can begin to decompose after a few years. The 'modern' packing that results in virtually dripless stuffing box is braided PTFE from GoreTex .... brand name is GFO Packing. Its relatively expensive but can be considered 'permanent'. It works well but you need a 'smooooooth' shaft to use it. The frictional characterists is so low that you can run a 'tight' box and have little frictional heat and virtually no need for the 'drips' to cool the packing.
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