Stuck Sink Drain Hose

[Jeff20919]

I have a 2006 Hunter 45 Center Cockpit, and the galley sink drain hose started leaking into the bilge. Thought I would just remove the old hose and install a new one. However I found out that the old hose is jammed in so tight that it cannot be removed (see photo's). It is an area under the flooring which cannot be removed. It appears that the hose was wedged between the flooring, and the aft holding tank, and and a series of electrical wiring bundles (see photos). This was the cause of the leaking. I have tried everything, short of cutting up the flooring. I have looked for another route to the thru hull, but there is no other way to route the hose. I have contacted Hunter without any success. Any help or ideas would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Jeff

 

[KD3PC]

if you can get to both ends...simply cut those away from the tailpiece and the throughull...now thread an electrician's snake, or similar through the drain hose. Attach one end VERY firmly to the hose and either the new smooth, perhaps 1/2" smaller diameter hose or a piece of strong twine or wire and pull back....this will remove the afflicted hose, while pulling the new one in, or at least a pull line through the places that you can not see or get to.

Doesn't mean you won't have to pull some floorboards, but it will give you another option before doing so..

All the best. And if I was not clear in describing the process, let me know, I will try again.

 

[Jeff20919]

Have tried that

if you can get to both ends...simply cut those away from the tailpiece and the throughull...now thread an electrician's snake, or similar through the drain hose. Attach one end VERY firmly to the hose and either the new smooth, perhaps 1/2" smaller diameter hose or a piece of strong twine or wire and pull back....this will remove the afflicted hose, while pulling the new one in, or at least a pull line through the places that you can not see or get to.

Doesn't mean you won't have to pull some floorboards, but it will give you another option before doing so..

All the best. And if I was not clear in describing the process, let me know, I will try again.

I have clear access to both the thru hull, and to where the drain hose connects to the underside of the sink, and hace cut and disconnected the hose at both locations. Have also tried the method you suggested, with no success. Given that the old hose is wedged between the floor, and tank, along with the several wire bundles, it just won't budge. I do not want to tear out any of the wiring.

Jeff

 

[Dave707]

Re: Have tried that

Can you re-route the hose and install a new through hull discharge??

 

[Jeff20919]

Last Option

Can you re-route the hose and install a new through hull discharge??

That would be my last option, and the most expensive, but thanks for the idea.
Jeff

 

[KD3PC]

I would suspect then, that the factory guys ty-wrapped that hose to the other bundles of stuff there...or layered all that on top of it and then dropped the liner in on that.

You will need to gain access or at least visibilty to the area (rent or buy one of the mechanic video camera on a stick) or maybe a mirror to "see" what the hang up is...If you are certain it is merely wedged between the tank and the stringer/floor just muscle it out, if there is nothing to damage on top of it, run a piece of carbide cable or chain saw through the hose and drag bag and forth, cutting whatever ties there are...

however if it is interwoven in with cables/signal wires/water line, etc...you are reaching the proverbial rock and hard spot...

A baby's gotta do what a baby's gotta do...

 

[Jeff20919]

2006 45 CC first model year

I would suspect then, that the factory guys ty-wrapped that hose to the other bundles of stuff there...or layered all that on top of it and then dropped the liner in on that.

You will need to gain access or at least visibilty to the area (rent or buy one of the mechanic video camera on a stick) or maybe a mirror to "see" what the hang up is...If you are certain it is merely wedged between the tank and the stringer/floor just muscle it out, if there is nothing to damage on top of it, run a piece of carbide cable or chain saw through the hose and drag bag and forth, cutting whatever ties there are...

however if it is interwoven in with cables/signal wires/water line, etc...you are reaching the proverbial rock and hard spot...


A baby's gotta do what a baby's gotta do...

You are correct, it appears that's what was done at the factory, since my 2006 45 CC was the first model year for that boat. I would be interested if Hunter discovered the problem and have since corrected it in later models. The photo's that I took pretty much show just how hard it is wedged in there. Again thanks for your reply.
Jeff

 

[seadaddler]

Leave it

Can you just run a new hose or reroute a new hose and cut away what ever old hose you can and just leave what ever old hose is jammed with out a new truhull .
Nick

 

[Scott B]

Can you get at the clips holding the wire budle in place, cut them and move the wires out of the way?
How far under the boards is the jam. Cut the hose lengthways and remove bits at a time?
Loosen and move the wires and run another hose beside the old hose.
Run a smaller sink drain hose.
Ship the hose & sink ( and boat ) to me and I'll ship back my working hose & sink ( att'd to my boat )

 

[Jeff20919]

Can't do that

Can you get at the clips holding the wire budle in place, cut them and move the wires out of the way?
How far under the boards is the jam. Cut the hose lengthways and remove bits at a time?
Loosen and move the wires and run another hose beside the old hose.
Run a smaller sink drain hose.
Ship the hose & sink ( and boat ) to me and I'll ship back my working hose & sink ( att'd to my boat )

Scott,
No, I cannot get to the clips or ties holding the wire bundles. The wire bundles are about halfway between the two access points. So I cannot reach them. Only way to get to them and the jamed hose section is to cut away the flooring which is glued down to the fiberglass liner, which is on top od the aft hollding tank. If you look at one of the photo's I took, you can see just how tight that space is.
I appreciate your suggestion, thanks,
Jeff

 

[Allan12210]

Is the hose reinforced with wire? If so, is it a spiral and can you rotate the hose in effect unscrewing it from the tie wrap (if not too tight)? Can you grab the wire with vise grips and strip it out of the hose rendering it more flexible to pull out? And lastly, can the hose collapse upon itself, especially if you block one end and hook the other to a shop vacuum cleaner?

 

[Allan12210]

Oh, and more brilliant ideas, pour really hot water into the hose and get it soft before really pulling on it.

 

[Brian L.20665]

Oh, and more brilliant ideas, pour really hot water into the hose and get it soft before really pulling on it.

I really like Allan's idea, close the thru-hull and fill hose with hot water, wait a few minutes then open the thru-hull and pull like crazy.

One more idea:
Since you want to run a new drain hose and it sounds like your only option really is in the same route, how about putting a piece of hard PVC pipe, slightly smaller diameter than the current hose, and jam it through the hose, to create your new "hose." You'd trim the old hose in place to be as short as possible, leaving it in place. Then find a piece of PVC perhaps 1 1/4" diameter or smaller, but long enough to stretch through the problem area, put a temporary end-cap on it (one of the rounded ones), then force it through the opening (old hose) even with light blows from a hammer while keeping an eye on the wire looms. When the PVC pipe is in place, attach new hose to each end using adapters to correct for size difference. I think you can get away with smaller diameter pipe in that location given what usually goes down a sink.

 

[ice breaker]

I have a 2006 Hunter 45 Center Cockpit, and the galley sink drain hose started leaking into the bilge. Thought I would just remove the old hose and install a new one. However I found out that the old hose is jammed in so tight that it cannot be removed (see photo's). It is an area under the flooring which cannot be removed. It appears that the hose was wedged between the flooring, and the aft holding tank, and and a series of electrical wiring bundles (see photos). This was the cause of the leaking. I have tried everything, short of cutting up the flooring. I have looked for another route to the thru hull, but there is no other way to route the hose. I have contacted Hunter without any success. Any help or ideas would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Jeff

It looks like you need to really pull the floor section. I pulled a section of my galley floor on my H41 this summer, it was squeaking too much. It is just glued down to the sub floor with several dabs of glue. A thin long pry bar separated the panels with out damage. Good luck.

I am really surprised by the poor quality drain hose used on Hunter sink drains. How would it meet CE requirements. As I was pickling the boat in cold weather, I cracked the drain line off just by by bumping it. The vinyl hose really likes 80 and not 40.

 

[Cool_Change]

This may be the same as what Brian L was suggesting but if the old hose won't come out and you can't re-route then just run a new smaller line thru it and go with a slightly slower draining sink.

 

[Jeff20919]

Tried That

This may be the same as what Brian L was suggesting but if the old hose won't come out and you can't re-route then just run a new smaller line thru it and go with a slightly slower draining sink.

I have tried to pull a smaller hose through, used a smooth walled 1" hose, but when it got to the section that had collapsed, it would not go any further. I am seriously thinking of prying up the flooring(teak & holly), but under that is the fiberglass "liner" that I would still have to cut through, and I do not know what that would do to the structural integrity of the boat.
Again thanks to all of you for your continued help.
Jeff

 

[seadaddler]

Bad Bad Worker

Sounds like when the boat was put together the worker was not thinking and installed badly and so now it is all hopeless and impossible to correct with out major work to correct.
So you should contact again and ask Hunter and advise of the poor job done at the factory and so now they need to help advising you what can be done like how and what will happen if you starting the flooring up,just say hey I paid good money they need to give some support to correct the situation not a big deal the factory worker guffed and you nicely want some help and advise from them please.
Nick

 

[randy@trautmans.org]

I have a 35 Legend and they used bundle ties in several inaccessible places on the hot water hoses leading from the engine to the hot water tank. Sounds like they did't learn...

Randy

 

[Scott B]

I have tried to pull a smaller hose through, used a smooth walled 1" hose, but when it got to the section that had collapsed, it would not go any further. I am seriously thinking of prying up the flooring(teak & holly), but under that is the fiberglass "liner" that I would still have to cut through, and I do not know what that would do to the structural integrity of the boat.
Again thanks to all of you for your continued help.
Jeff

The flooring is a plywood laminate, but will still be a pain to pull.

Sounds like Hunter need to step up on this one and offer some help. Did you try Eddie Breedan at Hunter?

 

[Jeff20919]

Temporary Fix

All,

Not wanting to miss a chance for a long weekend at Catalina with great weather, I came up with a temporary fix. (See photo).
In answer to the most recent posts, yes I contacted Hunter, and would rather not discuss that in this forum. But as you can tell by my asking all of you for help and some ideas...well you get the idea. Still not sure about the floring, as under the laminate is the fiberglass pan, which would also have to be cut. Oh well my problem is not imposible to fix, it's just dam hard, and frustrating. Thanks to all of you for your support and ideas.

Jeff