Stripping and waxing our Hunter

[dstewart100]

Two questions for our Hunter friends:We have a ’93 23.5, and are about to strip and wax her (first time ever). I have the stripper, and have been advised to be careful with the it – it’s pretty caustic – for ourselves and the trailer. We’ll use gloves, and long sleeves, etc, and I've been told to hose down the trailer often as the stripper can eat through the galvanizing. Any suggestions on a process or other ideas/cautions are welcome.Then, we need to wax her. Again, I have the wax, but my local boat guru has told me we’ll be there for a week if we want to hand buff it. He told me to get an industrial buffer ($200+) and it’ll fly. Any suggestions on this process or other ideas/cautions are also welcome.Thank you!

 

[tbarnby]

a week?

You can hand wax that boat in a day by yourself. If you want to use a power buffer, either rent a good one for about 15.00 per day or buy a cheap one. You do not neeed a $200.00 buffer to do a once per year job.

 

[PHitchcox]

Agree

Sympathies on the stripping; haven't had to do that.On the waxing, I was not looking forward to doing my 290 and anticipated purchasing a buffer. Turned out if was very doable; took half a day, by hand, no machine, and somewhat rewarding - nice and shiny. Don't see any reason for a $200 buffer.Paul

 

[Paul McGhee]

what's to strip?

This boat is gelcoated, right? What are you stripping off? Old wax? Oxidized gelcoat?Maybe one of the 3M cleaner/waxer products -- or their equivalent -- would do the job. Then, it's just a one-step operation. Those products actually recommend hand application.Paulsv Escape Artisth336

 

[Pat Adam]

Just did that

I have an H26 and recently completed the job you are discussing. I purchased a complete "industrial" 7" polishing machine kit from Lowes made by GMC (Lowes home brand). Cost $79.00. It came in a nice carrying bag with all the items you would need. I bought a few more "bonnets" as the process destroys them fairly quickly. I used Maguiar's polishing and waxing compound which has a bit of a grit to it and brought back a '94 very dull hull to a very shiny gloss. I spend 2 nights about 2 hrs a side to get the job done. I definitely do not recommend doing it by hand as you just cannot get the results and speed a machine provides. The only thing I must warn against is make sure you stay away from any vinyl stripes or lettering. Do those areas by hand. The machine is too fast and powerful and will tear or discolor the vinyl (I learned this the hard way). I have also worked with the "stripping" product you are describing and I highly urge you to stay away from that. It will eat through everything it comes in contact with, including your boat. In fact, when you apply it, you'll notice it will start to smoke on contact! This should only be used by professionals and only in cases of extreme restoration. I hope this info helps you out. Good luck!Happy sailing!Pat

 

[Don s/v Tellico]

stripper?

3M restorer/was is all you will need. I used a buffer with a net type bonnett, better for taking off all the dead wax and stuff. Did an H26 in about 1.5 days, taking LOTS of breaks.What kind of stripper are you using?

 

[mmsailor]

polish wax

Use meguiars oxidation remover , then meguiars polish and finally meguiars wax ,. I have been doing this for ten years on an 89 model boat , stay away from that stripper and avoid the guy who told you to rent a 200 dollar buffer, I sometimes use a buffer sometimes do it by hand, to me the hand method works great because it helps to keep clean towels , with a buffer the pads get dirty very quickly and it just seems to spread grit around, good luck Mike Bacome

 

[dstewart100]

Stripping what........

OK. I have to take a look at the product to see what stripper it is, but I know it's a West Marine product. I'm hearing clearly from you all that the waxing is not THAT huge a job - that sounds wonderful. The reason I have been told to strip the boat is that it's a '93 (12 years old) somewhat browned along the water line, never been stripped or waxed, and the hull has a number of bump marks on her where I (or less skilled crew/skippers) have bumped into things we shouldnt' have (docks, lobster buoys, (the joys of salt water sailing) etc.). Also, the hull has oxidized slightly.Will the wax and buffer (or waxing by hand) remove these marks and oxidization? I was under the impression that it would not.This is the greatest site, and thanks for all the advice.

 

[Don s/v Tellico]

Probably not by hand....

a good size buffer will be best. I usually spread the stuff around by hand, then hit it with the buffer real good before it dries.

 

[Steve Dion]

Cleaners for bumps

David:There are plenty of products out there for the water line stain. You can get some of the products on the market for the bumps too.I find that a little acetone on a clean rag will remove the hull bumps. Just use a little on a clean rag and walaa (or was that voila).

 

[MABell]

To get the stain off...

Use On-and Off.It will remove embedded stains but will not harm the gel coat. Be carefull using it. It is an acid. Then do whatever rubbing compound, polish and wax you decide on.

 

[Dale Wile]

Soft-scrub

I know there will be negative responses (I received them previously when I answered questions similar to the one you posed), but I have used Soft-Scrub for a dozen years, with no problem and excellent results. I know of several marine service companies and boat dealers who also use Soft-Scrub. Admittedly, I have carefully used acetone to remove especially troublesome stains on several occasions, followed by a quick water rinse to neutralize the power of acetone. But, my old standby every spring is a good scouring with Soft-Scrub, followed by a waxing using a good automotive wax approved for fiberglass.

 

[Paul McGhee]

Soft Scrub! Omigod!

... just kidding.

 

[John]

How do you get where bunks are?

Do ya'll (I'm from Virginia ya know) just slide your boat back off trailers to wax - how do you get where trailer supports are??