I have grey streaking on the hull side directly below the chain-plates. What can I use to remove it?
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P
Paul Akers
Rain Runoff
Those black streaks are usually grime from rain runoff. They can be either waxed off with a cleaner/wax or there is a product called "Streak Remover" (spray on) that can be purchased at the local boating store. Take a look at other boats around and you will commonly see this.
Those black streaks are usually grime from rain runoff. They can be either waxed off with a cleaner/wax or there is a product called "Streak Remover" (spray on) that can be purchased at the local boating store. Take a look at other boats around and you will commonly see this.
J
Jerry
SOFT SCRUB
I used Soft Scrub with bleach. The streaks came right off. Don't forget to wax afterwards.
I used Soft Scrub with bleach. The streaks came right off. Don't forget to wax afterwards.
P
Paul Akers
Soft Scrub - be careful
Just be careful with Soft Scrub. There's a mild abrasive in SS as well as bleach. And, as stated, be sure to wax it if you use it.
Just be careful with Soft Scrub. There's a mild abrasive in SS as well as bleach. And, as stated, be sure to wax it if you use it.
T
ted
Be careful with soft Scrub
Use it sparingly, it will eat your gelcoat over time if repeatedly used. Also be carful when using it while you boat is in the water, bleach is a nasty pollutant. Better to clean boat good with a cleaner wax while on the hard and wax real good. Then those grey streaks can be washed out of the wax easily with a sponge and very little biodegradable boat soap.
Use it sparingly, it will eat your gelcoat over time if repeatedly used. Also be carful when using it while you boat is in the water, bleach is a nasty pollutant. Better to clean boat good with a cleaner wax while on the hard and wax real good. Then those grey streaks can be washed out of the wax easily with a sponge and very little biodegradable boat soap.
Different strokes for different streaks
I have learned a lot from two boat detailers I know plus my own experience. 1. Black streaks. We all know them and hate them! Caused by hydrocarbon soot. Being "oily" the penetrates all waxes (which are really only hard fats themselves). That is why "black streak removers" are really wax removers. You should rewax the area unless trh streak remover contains some wax (and silicone to renew the gloss). Our early Superwax is mainly resin but containsmuh more wax than recent versions and was susceptibel to somereally deep black streaks as there is some wax content and the coating is much thicker than regular wax. Superglaze is not stainable When properly set) by oily materials That is because it contains no wax or oils. If you clean of black streaks routinely they do not penetrate. If they get deep our Superglaze removs, and seals with a stainproof layer. 2. Metallic Streaks. seem to occur under aluminum fittings and sometimes stainless. They are grey and NOT easily removed by the usual "black streak removers" probably because they penetrate into the gelcoat, as for rust stains (see below), but by mild polish. Then they have to be waxed over. We even get some of these stains in the surface of Mirror Hard Superglaze that is generally stain resitant. But can be often removed by some more of the glaze if they have not penetrated too deeply. 3. Rust stains. left alone,these can get throught the usual thin later of wax and are even more of a problem on chalky gelcoat becuase the rust soaks down into the pores. While dissolving out the oxidation or even compounding can remove mild rust stains, an acid-based treatment is better. The best product I have seen on this (patio concrete) is a product called "Majica" (saw at a show). THis is available via Sailnet. Oxalic based stain removers also should work, but stay away from strong acid baseed products that will bleach beige gelcoat (it happened to my non-skid). Be glad of any more feedback on the rust removal!
I have learned a lot from two boat detailers I know plus my own experience. 1. Black streaks. We all know them and hate them! Caused by hydrocarbon soot. Being "oily" the penetrates all waxes (which are really only hard fats themselves). That is why "black streak removers" are really wax removers. You should rewax the area unless trh streak remover contains some wax (and silicone to renew the gloss). Our early Superwax is mainly resin but containsmuh more wax than recent versions and was susceptibel to somereally deep black streaks as there is some wax content and the coating is much thicker than regular wax. Superglaze is not stainable When properly set) by oily materials That is because it contains no wax or oils. If you clean of black streaks routinely they do not penetrate. If they get deep our Superglaze removs, and seals with a stainproof layer. 2. Metallic Streaks. seem to occur under aluminum fittings and sometimes stainless. They are grey and NOT easily removed by the usual "black streak removers" probably because they penetrate into the gelcoat, as for rust stains (see below), but by mild polish. Then they have to be waxed over. We even get some of these stains in the surface of Mirror Hard Superglaze that is generally stain resitant. But can be often removed by some more of the glaze if they have not penetrated too deeply. 3. Rust stains. left alone,these can get throught the usual thin later of wax and are even more of a problem on chalky gelcoat becuase the rust soaks down into the pores. While dissolving out the oxidation or even compounding can remove mild rust stains, an acid-based treatment is better. The best product I have seen on this (patio concrete) is a product called "Majica" (saw at a show). THis is available via Sailnet. Oxalic based stain removers also should work, but stay away from strong acid baseed products that will bleach beige gelcoat (it happened to my non-skid). Be glad of any more feedback on the rust removal!
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